I believe I was corrected on that earlierWhy f19 on the hat picture?
I believe I was corrected on that earlierWhy f19 on the hat picture?![]()
I believe I was corrected on that earlierWhy f19 on the hat picture?![]()
Maybe I missed it but someone stated f19 is a small opening, but I didn't see your reason to pick f19.
I know, I was simply playing around with this indoor photography. I do not normally use A that small.
I know, I was simply playing around with this indoor photography. I do not normally use A that small.
I've shot at f22 may times before before. Why f19 over f22 or f16 / 8 / 5.6 ... etc? What were you looking to achieve with a small aperture vs a larger one?
You aren't letting upI understand quite clearly it was a mistake, oops setting.
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I'm a rookie, and should be slapped silly for this. I should never use such a small A for studio work. I'm such a dum-dum. What was I thinking, especially after you already told me this! It take 2 times for it to sink in. I GET IT NOW, got it?!You aren't letting upI understand quite clearly it was a mistake, oops setting.
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No, I'm not sure why it was a mistake. I got the same answer from you the last time I asked you that exact question in another thread.

You'd still need about 20 of those to put out enough light to even begin to help you. I see a LOT of people get sucked into buying those "studio in a box" deals and they are worthless. You are better off using the stands and umbrellas you have and buying 2 Yongnuo flashes to mount on them You'll then also need speedlite mounts which will run you another few bucks, but what you have isn't worth even fighting with to take a shot with it. Sorry!
I have a bunch of speedlights that I use as my lighting MUCH of the time. I can use them anywhere. I can stick one of those little suckers just about anywhere by using a justin clamp or a gorilla pod and it lets me do darned near anything with my lighting.
I do have a full studio setup, but when you are shooting outdoors, on location, weddings, etc you can't beat having an arsenal of speedlites.
I also have speedlites that I cannot put on my cameras. They either aren't even compatible or they would fry my hotshoe's. I can use them off camera though!!! CHEAP as hell on ebay!!!
I hope you don't mind, your tag says 'OK' to edit your photos:
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I dont know how accurate this is since I wasn't there, but this is why I suggest using a grey card (or white card). If your camera doesn't support custom WB by shooting a card, what you can do is take one photo with your reference card large in the frame under the light you'll be shooting. Then shoot as you normally would. Then when you get back to the computer, you open your photo with reference white/grey card and remove the color cast in PS (or whatever PP tool you use). You can usually save this adjustment and apply to all other photos in the shoot. For this photo, I just used the white block on the rubix cube as the white reference.
I was reading Cgibsons links, grey & white card...new to me. I think I like tiredirons idea better, just use auto white balance, however I really would like to perfect manual WB for indoor studio photo's. I do manual WB outdoors with ease, but indoors....ugg. The color is still off with the edit. The hat is white with light pink ribbon, the backdrop is black and still looks a little blue-ish. Maybe auto WB for indoor, manual for outdoor, solved! LOL!
Your onboard flash is firing for one, thats a different color temp than your continuous lights are.
Yes, I need to get brighter bulbs for the studio, so I did use a flash. Expodisc?? I'll google that after I'm done with my homework cgibson gave me on understanding WB....
gsgary said:No you need to get studio flash, continuous are a waste of money they are ok for still life
I believe I was corrected on that earlier![]()
Maybe I missed it but someone stated f19 is a small opening, but I didn't see your reason to pick f19.
I know, I was simply playing around with this indoor photography. I do not normally use A that small.