Why don't people like program mode?

[Antithesis]

Turn on Auto Contrast (Tone Compensation on Nikons) and it'll make sure that you never drop shadow details so much that they can't be recovered. In contrasty scenes, it'll automatically lower contrast to avoid getting blowouts, and the opposite for low contrast scenes - it'll try to keep the histograms as filled as possible so that you're using as many levels as possible, just as it says to do in that article. It's built into the cameras (or at least Nikons) more or less.

Hmm, I never knew about Auto Contrast. You learn something new every day! I wonder if that's why I blow my highlights so easily. I usually just be super careful or try and bring the shadows back, and if it's too noisy, just run it through Noise ninja and it's fine.

I've been told that certain conversion programs (not ACR) can actually give you more breathing room using a RAW image. I usually use ACR, and therefore have never seen that large of a benefit from RAW (aside from easy WB adjustment of course). I forget what the actual program I was told to use was, but I think it was by Phase One or something. The guy who told me had been working as a freelance for about 10 years and sounded like he knew what he was talking about, so I took it at face value.

 

[JamesD]

I wonder why nobody ever wants to use the DEP mode. It goes for 18% gray, too.

If you get my drift.

 

[Mav]

Hmm, I never knew about Auto Contrast. You learn something new every day! I wonder if that's why I blow my highlights so easily. I usually just be super careful or try and bring the shadows back, and if it's too noisy, just run it through Noise ninja and it's fine.

Auto Contrast is usually on by default. It won't prevent blown highlights, but really just prevents you from getting double ended blowouts with lots of pixels piled up at either 255 or 0, like I see on a buddy's 40D from time to time. :blushing: Quite handy. All you need to do is keep your eyes on the highlights and auto contrast will take care of the rest. Active D-Lighting on the newer stuff will supposedly take care of highlights too.

 

[Rachelsne]

With my old camera P was great for my husband, all he had to do was make sure the ISO was set low, as the S3IS was terrible at automatically choosing high on auto.

 

[Uglulyx Takes Photos Too]

Ya i don't have a choice really, mine doesn;t have any shutterspeed options. I set apeture and it sets shutter.

 

[BrandonS]

Well I just 2 days ago tried manual for the first time. Before that I was doing Aperature and Shutter priority, mostly aperature because I never took shots of moving things. I for one can't even seem to get my camera to offer me another option other than the original in P mode. I spin the front and back dials and nothing happens. So out of stupidity I don't use it.

However, playing with manual mode, I don't really see how that's any different. You pick what you want to expose for and move your wheels for Aperature and Shutter speed until your meter reads level. Unless you're going for something else of course. But really, P mode accomplishes what your doing, just faster. Because you'll cycle through the combinations that you'd have to pick in manual mode for the meter to even out.

That's just my opinion w/out ever using P mode and being a newbie to all this.

 

[usayit]

Usayit, I tend to stay in Matrix unless there is something in the frame that I want to bring out by nailing the exposure on it.

I also use the spot meter to scope out a room if I'm going manual with the intent to batch process.

You?

On my 1 series SLR, I tend to stay in either Spot with the camera in either P or Av (usually Av) depending on my "mode of thought": Either thinking in terms of Aperture or thinking in terms of shift. On my other SLRs (Elan IIe), I'll leverage center weighted. These two modes plus center focus point provides a nice balance between control and automation. I can explicitly focus on a point, explicitly select metering point, and maintain control over final exposure.

NOTE: I went from a 10D and ElanII to a 1v and 1d MarkII (both used). One of the biggest reasons for this decision was the "multi-spot" metering in the 1 series camera. I cannot stress how important this feature was for me. NOTHING and I mean NOTHING in the Canon line meters with such control and precision. You leverage the spot meter to record up to 8 points/readings and the camera evaluates and marks the recommended exposure. In a pinch, you take readings in dark shadows and bright highlights... details in both are maintained just like magic. There was a push to "upgrade" to the 5D when it came out... but people just don't understand that there is a lot more to a camera then the sensor and processor. If it wasn't for the 1 series, I would just stay in center weight metering. The camera is WELL past the typical DSLR life span.. but I see no need to move to anything else.

The other option which I used for many years was simply a handheld meter with the camera in manual. In part because a lot of my cameras had no meter or any type of automation. I still find myself doing this anyway simply because I enjoy it. Often I'll walk the streets of NYC (for example), pull out my handheld meter, and take an ambient exposure reading over my shoulder. I set the appropriate shutter/aperture and just simply shoot.... and focus on shooting... If I shoot into an area of brighter sunlight, I'll stop down a stop or two. If I shoot into an area that is dimmer, I'll open her up a stop or two. Simple as that.... just taking "baseline" exposure readings every-once-in-a-while with my handheld. You guys should try it sometime.... Spotmatic, handheld meter, B&W film, 35mm and 50mm lenses..... it is truely liberating (from the wizbango techno gadgets).

When things get too fast, I will switch to P, Matrix mode, and activate all the focus points the camera (whopping 45 points in the 1 series). I don't do this for a living and I am far from a all-star photographer... I will be the first to admit I need help from the camera's automation. If someone sees this as not "earning" my badge of photographic honor, they can shove a sock in it.



They are freakin tools... not badges of honor or proof of strength of skill. The real strength is knowing all the adv/dis of each tool in the box and knowing how to leverage all of them.

 

[usayit]

However, playing with manual mode, I don't really see how that's any different.

Ah.. that's great! You are experimenting and learning. More than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Bevel Heaven]

BrandonS

you have to depress the shutter button halfway for things to register so you can affect eithr aperture or shutter speeds

 

[Joves]

I have never used the Program mode. I find myself stuck in Aperture or Manual modes, I guess Im too old to start trusting the camera to take care of things for me. I thought the poster was talking about the Auto Modes which I think are useless.

 

[AndrewG]

I feel programe modes can make you lazy especially with digital where you can fire off a zillion frames and cherry-pick the best to print. I've used fully automated cameras but never felt either fully in control nor entirely confident of the quality of the end result. I've been using my ancient Nikon F3HP in fully manual mode (the only other option is aperture priority auto) with great results for twenty years.
I also take issue with the idea that you're more likely to miss a shot when you need to focus, adjust your apetrure and shutter speed and check your exposure-all within a very short space of time. These are basic skills all photographers had to learn before autofocus/autoexposure were invented and some of the most famous images were shot like this.
As someone said, automation should be a tool to aid creativity, and not convenience.
Having said all that my preference is landscapes where I might have to wait for a long time for just the right light conditions so automation is of no use to me whatsoever!
Hope you didn't mind this input from a noob!

 

[caspertodd]

I thought Scott Kelby had good advice on the P mode in his Digital Photography mode. He said (don't remember the exact wording) when traveling, it is a good idea to keep your camera in the P mode when not taking pictures so that you can always be ready for anything. Now that I properly know how to use the other modes, I never use P mode, but I think what he is saying makes sense.

 

[BrandonS]

BrandonS

you have to depress the shutter button halfway for things to register so you can affect eithr aperture or shutter speeds

I'll try that, thanks.

 

[KD5NRH]

The other 1% can be fixed by looking at the photo on back, and using some exposure bracketing (or adjustment).

Photo on the back? All I see is that little window where I can check the ISO. :greenpbl:

Generally, if I catch myself wondering what to do, I hit P and take the darn picture, (noting what aperture and shutter settings it wanted for reference) then, if the shot is still available, I'll switch back to A or S and figure out what I want to do differently.

 

[Arch]

<Ken Rockwell Mode>
While you knob twiddlers are fiddling with shutter speeds and aperture in M mode, I'm busy taking masterpieces in P mode!
</Ken Rockwell Mode>

Sorry but i can't stand Rockwell and this is another phrase of his that just annoys me.
What it should read is 'While you knob twiddlers are fiddling with shutter speeds and aperture in M mode, my camera is busy taking average photos in P mode!'

I know everyone sees photography differently and i have nothing against people shooting in P mode if it suits thier style of photography....

However, the whole point of photography for me is that i am testing myself... even if my little niece is running around, i want to ask myself 'did i set that up right for the shot?'.... and YES it is hit and miss... thats what photography as a hobby is all about.... its like fishing, its the buzz of getting that one golden opportunity..

If i just used P mode all the time, i may as well buy one of those HD video cameras and next time my niece is around... leave it running for 2 hours... then look for a good frame when watching it back and voila... i created a 'masterpiece' as rockwell puts it... :roll:

My advice is.. learn to love your camera... learn from your mistakes... know that when you get a great image it was you who was in control... or even when you get a 'happy accident' (an image that came out better than you thought) know that it is YOU who made the settings.