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Why this happening to me?

Hi there, as has been pointed out those coloured pixels are to do with noise ISO 3200 is very noisy, only good for night time photography but even then it doesn't really give good results. I think ISO 800 or 1600 is the maximum that should be used.

Chromatic aberations are similiar in that colour is involved - but this affects the edges of things - peoples faces for example (as my 75-300 does wide open at 300mm) so imagine a purple haze around edges.

I hope this helps,

David
 
Now another problem I have : when I shoot Vegas strip picture from a distance, either the lights of the ad boards are too bright and picture has too bright OR other way around : ad boards are OK and visible but the picture is too dark, what is the best settings to take shot like that ?

There is no simple answer to this. Very bright lights and dark environment means a range of light (dynamic range) that is too wide for the sensor (any sensor). If you use a tripod, or any device to hold your camera still, you can take a set of pictures at varying shutter speeds (keeping the aperture the same so the depth of field stays the same) and then merge them using software.

This is called the HDR (for High Dynamic Range) technique. Do a web search for HDR101
 
I have always found it hard to meter for scenes with an extreme mix of bright lights on a dark canvas - it's a hard job for the sensor. It's best to meter on different parts of the scene and take a few shots - hopefully that will work for you!
 
Since that bird was shot with a 20D at fairly close range (76mm) lens setting, at F 5.6, I assume you were fairly close to it.

A good answer would have been to cut your ISO to 200 or so, your Shutter speed to 200 (or whatever a 20D syncs at) and used a fill flash to equalize the shadow on the bird's head.

With wildlife, their heads should be illuminated and their eyes crystal sharp.

The others are correct, your noise problem is because of your ISO.

A shutter speed of 200 would have more than caught the action of this bird.
 
You could always invest in a faster lens if you wanted....opening up by 2 stops would allow you to shoot at ISO800 and get the same picture with less noise...and the quality of the lens will most likely be better so you won't get as much abberration from glass either.
 
Thank you guys, it all helps alot, any comments about my last question ? what are the advantages of having f 2.8 ? what can i really accomplish ? what kind of environment it can be used for ? could you guys compare these two lenses (below) to see which one is more useful ?

" and last question, I have been looking at the lenses, for my use which of these two lens more usuful ? a)Canon 28-300mm 28-300 IS USM L Lens b) CANON EF 70-200mm F2.8 f/2.8 L IS USM OR any other lens that maybe better for the purpose ?"
 
you're talking about a CLOSE up image,the ISO is WAAYYY to high, if nothing else, use the auto setting, ISO for this image should have been 400 to get the best result, the light is a problem, 400 would have given the best result. in my opinion...
~C
 
Thank you guys, it all helps alot, any comments about my last question ? what are the advantages of having f 2.8 ? what can i really accomplish ? what kind of environment it can be used for ? could you guys compare these two lenses (below) to see which one is more useful ?

there is no theory on this, you have to experiment with the time of day conditions etc...experiment to get the look you want, you dont have to take 1 pic...
 

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