Working on my HDR

FaultyShutter · Sep 1, 2011

Hello Everyone,

Currently on a trip in Ireland and I'm working on getting my HDR done right. These are all HDR images of loch corrib down the road from where I am staying. Please feel free to critique them to pieces. Criticism only makes me better. Hope you enjoy.

Picture 1:

Picture 2:

Picture 3:

Picture 4:

Picture 5:

Thanks!
Tim

robertandrewphoto · Sep 1, 2011

What are you using for your tonemapping

FaultyShutter · Sep 1, 2011

Im using some cheap hydra HDR plug-in through aperature. Heard photomatrix is good, still saving up though

robertandrewphoto · Sep 1, 2011

Photomatix is the most common, my favorite is Dynamic Photo by Mediachance. Using either of them will make the photos significantly better instantly.

And as for the pictures...

1 and 2 are too dark in the foreground

3 isn't bad, but the clouds are a bit miscolored and it's a little flat

4 is the best, really good processing, the framing is a little weird though

5 is also good, but again is a little flat

FaultyShutter · Sep 1, 2011

Seems like when I boost contrast in the plug-in and aperture the foreground becomes too dark. Does more +EV images help?

robertandrewphoto · Sep 1, 2011

Yeah by a lot, but then you have to do it manually rather than bracketing.

what you can do too is drop the contrast all the way to zero and then fix it later with curves

KmH · Sep 1, 2011

You did not make enough exposures, and the exposure steps you used were to large for #1 and #2. Plus, with the Sun in the frame your exposure range should be offset so you have more exposures at -EV than at +EV.

The scenes in #3, #4, & #5 had insufficient dynamic range for making a HDR.

It appears you don't yet understand what kind of scene is best suited to HDR, and when the scene is appropriate, how to determine the dynamic range and the EV steps needed.

FaultyShutter · Sep 1, 2011

Would a structural scene like this be more appropriate? Again I only bracketed by a stop, and how many exposures would be ideal for a good HDR output of a scene like this?

spacefuzz · Sep 1, 2011

The scene that is appropriate for HDR is one that requires more stops than the digital sensor can handle, so if you take your nominal exposure and see the tails of your histogram smacking into the edges you need HDR.
What type of HDR are you going for? Realism or grunge? I will offer critique from a realism perspective.

#1 not enough exposures for the sun, and the colors seem kind of strange. compression banding but I assume that is from downsizing.
#2. Really not enough exposures, your foreground is way under exposed. also you clouds appear flat and not white like I would expect.
#3 I wouldnt have used HDR, and would have changed the composition a bit. too much sky and get close to the cool highlights on the foam if thats the focus of your shot.
$4 If it was mid day I see why you went HDR, but dunno about those colors.
#5. Nice shot, good clouds. Would reframe for rule of thirds, and when taking the shot may have placed a rock as a foreground anchor.

I like that your trying to improve, we all need to always be working at it. Feel free to check my latest started thread where I was told my shots were all wrong too

KmH · Sep 1, 2011

What was the total dynamic range of the scene?
Was it more than the image sensor in your camera could capture?
If it wasn't, HDR was not the appropriate technique to try and use.
The best definition will be gotten by using the smallest possible EV steps to record the total dynamic range of the scene. Using 1/3 stop steps, is better than using 1/2 stop steps, is better than using 1 stop steps, is better than using 2 stop steps. (note: a stop equals 1 EV)

3 exposures is the minimum required to make a HDR, however most scenes will require more than 3 exposures.

For instance. A scene has a total dynamic range of 12 stops (1/8000 second of shutter speed to 1/4 second of shutter speed). The best definition will be gotten by making 36 - 1/3 stop exposures. Next best will be making 24 - 1/2 stop exposures, then 12 - 1 stop exposures, then lowest final image quality will be from making 6 - 2 stop exposures.
Then there are the possible permutations for exposure offset to consider, for each scene you want to image.

Don't get stuck in the HDR hole: Stages of a photographer

Doing HDR well is a lot more involved than many new to HDR realize.

FaultyShutter · Sep 1, 2011

Thanks for the helpful info! I obviously have a lot to learn about doing HDR properly. Im still in the same location for one more day so I plan on going out and taking the knowledge given and see how much I can improve the same subject. Any tips on changing the exposure settings on the camera without disrupting it too much so my image can me more aligned? I had a remote trigger before but lost it before going on this trip

480sparky · Sep 1, 2011

FaultyShutter said:
Would a structural scene like this be more appropriate? Again I only bracketed by a stop, and how many exposures would be ideal for a good HDR output of a scene like this?

HDR does not 'prefer' any specific type of imagery. Some certain types tend to work well with the process, though. Old rusty vehicles and abandoned buildings are two that are popular with HDR enthusiasts.

To obtain the best HDR results, you need to expose the brightest part of the scene properly, the darkest part of the scene properly, and every point in between. So, if the brightest part of a given scene requires ISO 200, f/8 and 1/500 sec and the darkest requires ISO 200, f/8 and 1/2 sec to record the details, then you shoot 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125 and 1/500 to use to build your final image. If the range of the image only needs 1/4 to 1/60 you shoot those with all the shutter speeds in between. OTOH, if you need 8 sec to 1/1000, you'll end up with 14 frames.

FaultyShutter said:
........ Any tips on changing the exposure settings on the camera without disrupting it too much so my image can me more aligned? ........

In a perfect world, tethering a tripod-mounted camera would be the ultimate solution. However, not too many of us are willing to lug around a laptop for this purpose. But a tripod is 99% of the ideal solution. Mirror-up, if your camera has that function, will help. There are some SmartPhone apps that may work, though.

Not all scenes lend themselves to HDR by default. Many can easily be rendered accurately with one well-selected shot.

FaultyShutter · Sep 1, 2011

@ KMH The graph gave me a good laugh in a quiet room. It is 100% true however. Ive been going 50-50 with hdr and single shots while on this trip. What I need to work on most what you stated, when to and not to use HDR in subjects. I have several long exposures planned of the same lake that Ill take tomm. I honestly believe they'll turn out better than my HDR. Ill post all on the thread.

KmH · Sep 1, 2011

A good scene for HDR has both bright, and dark sections.

Any scene that is uniformly lit, is not a good candidate for HDR, because the scene does not have a high dynamic range (HDR).

In other words, think of it as the scene is HDR and requires a range of exposures, not that you want to make a scene into an HDR image by making a range of un-necessary exposures..