Beginner's lighting. What do you want to know?

[Sarah23]

OK...so when I did have E-TTL on when I was boucing the flash...it was doing a pre-flash and then taking a reading, and then doing the real flash? But none of the settings changed for the shot. I had to change the FEC to get the right lighting.

 

[Big Mike]

OK...so when I did have E-TTL on when I was bouncing the flash...it was doing a pre-flash and then taking a reading, and then doing the real flash?

Yes.

But none of the settings changed for the shot. I had to change the FEC to get the right lighting.

I'm not sure what you mean that none of the settings changed :scratch:...but yes, you sometimes do have to adjust the FEC to get what you want out of the flash. The only thing that really changes with E-TTL is the power of the flash. Remember, it's dependant on how much light is reflected back, so if you have something really bright, it might thing that it doesn't need a lot of light and it would underexpose the image...just like the camera's regular metering.

Also, if you have ambient light in the equation (which we usually do) that might have to be considered...and it certainly has to be considered if you are trying to find a balance between flash and ambient.

 

[Sarah23]

It probably didnt make sense, because I dont know what I am talking about and dont know what all E-TTL does.

When it does the pre-flash and takes a reading...what does it do then? You say it changed the power of the flash? But I never noticed it change it.

I think the biggest thing I am thinking back on, is some newborn shots I took, and I was bouncing my flash off of a white wall nearby. (it was a pretty dim room) I had E-TTL on (and the flash ON the camera) but I still had to change the FEC a lot to try and get the right amount of light. Was the camera supposed to take a reading from the pre-flash, and do something about it possibly being over exposed, or under exposed?

 

[Big Mike]

When it does the pre-flash and takes a reading...what does it do then? You say it changed the power of the flash? But I never noticed it change it.

It changes it, based on the scene in front of the lens. So essentially, you could take a photo of a person in a dark room or outside under a tree...and the exposure of the person should be the same (at least the part of them that is lit with the flash).

I think the biggest thing I am thinking back on, is some newborn shots I took, and I was bouncing my flash off of a white wall nearby. (it was a pretty dim room) I had E-TTL on (and the flash ON the camera) but I still had to change the FEC a lot to try and get the right amount of light. Was the camera supposed to take a reading from the pre-flash, and do something about it possibly being over exposed, or under exposed?

What mode was the camera in? E-TTL works slightly differently in different modes. In P (or auto) mode, the camera sets a typical shutter speed (1/60) and maybe the max aperture and then relies on the flash to pick up the rest. If you are in Av or Tv, the shutter speed and aperture will be set as if there is no flash, and the flash will act as fill, rather than trying to be the main source of light.

I like to use flash with the camera in M mode and the flash in E-TTL mode. That way, I set the aperture that I want, the flash will match it's power to that (with E-TTL preflash) and I set the shutter speed based on how much ambient exposure I want.

 

[husky_mom]

well... right now I have a Canon S3... I know I know... but even so I want to get more light...what do you reccomend??... a flash for hotshoe? which one?...

and also I want to take portrait shots and was wondering what equipment is ehte basic as I´ve been looking for some but I´m just too blonde right now.. LOL...

basically light for indoor shoots and perhaps some to fill in in outdoor shoots... really really basic stuff... just to give a more natural look...

later on I can upgrade my digi but still have same lights... thanks

 

[Big Mike]

I don't think the Canon S3 IS has a hot shoe...so you can't use an accessory flash.

You could use an accessory flash, off camera, with an optical slave trigger, but you would need to either disable the camera's pre-flash or use an expensive optical trigger that can be set to ignore a pre-flash.

and also I want to take portrait shots and was wondering what equipment is ehte basic as I´ve been looking for some but I´m just too blonde right now.. LOL

That's a loaded question. I'd suggest using window light for portraits.

Really, if you want to get into studio style lighting or off-camera lighting etc...you will need to get a better camera.

 

[husky_mom]

actually it has a hotshoe... hence I asked.. LOL.. but I also think an off camera lighting/flask ...

and I know about getting a better camera but I really want to see what I can achive with good light on this one...

It takes pretty decent pics but the light sometimes is blah..

would some constant light be better.... warm? cool?... I have no clue.. LOL... I read strobes are a more trail and error thing...but what can I get to start adn play

 

[Big Mike]

The hot shoe must be hidden, I looked it up on Dpreview but couldn't see it.
Anyway, if you have a hot shoe, then I'd recommend a Canon flash like the 430EX.

If you want to get serious about portrait photography, forget about constant light and go with flash. The two main options are studio style strobes and hot shoe flash units. They each have pros and cons.

 

[seamus14]

As far as lighting application, if you're doing off camera lighting, "Light Science & Magic" is a good book to read through. It shows you how to light certain situations and problems. It's fairly technical and can provide a good base to start off with. I'm not sure of anything as far as books that are for what types of light to use.

What are you planning on shooting?

Thanks. I'll make that my next read after Understanding Exposure, which is on the way. I am very new so I'm still shooting everything trying to figure what I really enjoy. The only thing I can tell you now is what I don't plan on shooting.

 

[rubbertree]

My DH made me a soft box about 3feet square. I used draped white fabric off the top, sides and bottom. Attached 2 clamp lights to either side with 40 watt regular light bulbs. Pictures still don't look the way I want them to.
Do I need higher wattage? A specific light bulb? Do I set my white balance on auto or must it be set to the type of light bulb used?
Can I use the soft box anywhere in the house or does the lighting within the house make a difference?

 

[JerryPH]

My DH made me a soft box about 3feet square. I used draped white fabric off the top, sides and bottom. Attached 2 clamp lights to either side with 40 watt regular light bulbs. Pictures still don't look the way I want them to.
Do I need higher wattage? A specific light bulb? Do I set my white balance on auto or must it be set to the type of light bulb used?
Can I use the soft box anywhere in the house or does the lighting within the house make a difference?

As a general rule, a strobe will give you better quality light than constant on lighting. SOme may say I am almost predjudiced against constant on... nope, I just know the results are better from personal experience. Constant on lighting is also hotter for your subjects and has zero portability.

Anyways, to answer your questions...
40 watts is not going to be enough. Mot who do this, use 100-150 watt bulbs.

WB can be set to auto if yoiu are shooting in RAW. If shooting in JPG, set the camera to the proper WB.

You can use the setup anywhere in the house, but if the bulbs cannot overpower ambient light, then you are going to get colour casts from what ever ambient is... whch is kind of illogical, since the purpose of using additional lighting is to produce an environment specific to YOUR needs, right?

 

[Village Idiot]

My DH made me a soft box about 3feet square. I used draped white fabric off the top, sides and bottom. Attached 2 clamp lights to either side with 40 watt regular light bulbs. Pictures still don't look the way I want them to.
Do I need higher wattage? A specific light bulb? Do I set my white balance on auto or must it be set to the type of light bulb used?
Can I use the soft box anywhere in the house or does the lighting within the house make a difference?

IF you have the cash to spare a sun pak 383 and 15' pc cable will produce a better quality light and overall result with your softbox. That's probably a $95 purchase if you're going new.

If you're not shooting with daylight balance bulbs, you'll be closer to the correct WB with AWB on the camera, the problem is that AWB really isn't very good. If you're shooting with a standard interior light bulb and you're getting orange pictures, switch your WB to incandescent I think. I have to check to see what all the setting are, but I think that's the right one...

 

[Village Idiot]

actually it has a hotshoe... hence I asked.. LOL.. but I also think an off camera lighting/flask ...

and I know about getting a better camera but I really want to see what I can achive with good light on this one...

It takes pretty decent pics but the light sometimes is blah..

would some constant light be better.... warm? cool?... I have no clue.. LOL... I read strobes are a more trail and error thing...but what can I get to start adn play

www.strobist.com

This guy started a cult movement for using speedlights off camera. His following is huge. My point? Some times he shoots with a Canon G9 advanced P&S.

 

[sto12m]

Hi all, first step into this forum and this is just the thread i'm looking for!

Consider this case, i'm inside a hall with a 16 meters tall roof, lights are off but the object i'm aiming at is being shot by two spotlights behind me as i'm facing the target.

So for this case, what kind of settings do i need to do? Flashes, diffusals, shutter speed, etc..

I'd be greatly thankful for any advice!

Cheers!

 

[Village Idiot]

What type of event? If you're still in a place with white ceilings, you may be able to still use bounce flash, even at that height.