Newbie needs help "focusing"

[otherprof]

But the important thing is to use the photo as Exhibit A in the case for the new camera.

Smart woman! On the bright side, there will be a new, improved version of the camera out before you know it
I tried this and she said I should take a class first.

 

[weepete]

For depth of field is it better to trade off ISO for f/stops? I generally try to keep ISO below 800 but that may not be necessary. I think I got that rule shooting film.

Usually, yes. Otherwise what you will end up with is the people in focus and the background out of focus, which may be what you want sometimes but I am assuming that you wanted your whole frame sharp in this instance. A quick way to get maximum depth of field is to focus 1/3rd of the way into the image, as you'll often get a deeper in focus area behind the subject than you will in front.

Keeping the ISO below 800 is a digital thing as you'll get less noise, though with modern cameras the noise performance is really pretty good and can be higher ISOs before noise appears. You can trade off things to keep the ISO low but only if it does not introduce unwanted blur.

 

[s_marolf]

Get somewhere that there is plenty of bright but non-direct light, like a shaded porch. Then set the camera at the widest opening and take a few pictures of something with detail and with a specific point you can place the focus point on.
Then see how sharp the images are.
If the camera works ok, then we can work on upgrading some skills.

Here's a picture of a map from a few feet away. F/1.8 iso 100 35mm and shutter 1/1500 I think. I was focused on the "X" in Texas. Looks like theres more in focus behind the X vs in front, but maybe I'm splitting hairs.

https://goo.gl/photos/Se6XxZ2ivmDeq5YH9

 

[astroNikon]

I have a Nikon D5100 for that shot I had the kit lens on and it was 26mm 1/250 f/5.6 ISO 400

I think a higher ISO would have helped but as noted the waterfall seemed to be the focus point. For this I had the focus on AF-A and Auto Area. I've tried single point as well and had silimar issues but I thinks that's generally with the zoom and I'm probably using to slow of a shutter speed. Seem like I've got a few issues to work through.

Dependent upon where you bought it, the "kit" lens could vary, especially if you bought it from one of hundred online places that makes "kit packages".

It's like saying, I bought a car and it came with the wheels that it came with, then go on to ask about the performance of the rims and tires without being specific about what they are.

 

[s_marolf]

Dependent upon where you bought it, the "kit" lens could vary, especially if you bought it from one of hundred online places that makes "kit packages".

The kit lens I got was the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 VR. I also have the 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR and a 35mm f/1.8.

I generally use the 35mm as it seems to take the best pics but sometimes I use the 18-55mm just to have some flexibility. I can't run as fast as the kids when I just have the 35mm lens on.

 

[KmH]

Nikon's consumer grade ($200 or so) AF-S 35 mm f/1.8G DX lens is noted for having soft focus, low contrast, and purple fringing when used wide open (f/1.8).
it needs to be stopped down to get sharp focus and to minimize chromatic aberration (CA/purple fringing).
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1:1.8G DX review

Conclusion - Cons

• Slightly soft and low in contrast wide open
• Lateral chromatic aberration somewhat higher than traditional 50mm 'standard' primes
• Prone to purple fringing and bokeh chromatic aberration, most visible at large apertures