1st DSLR

Instastitch

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I am looking a buying my 1st DSLR. The Sony A57 comes in mind, but my question is I don't have any experience in anything other than jpg's, so, how is the Raw file format for this 3x? I will be needing to use this for fast action sports, weddings and some portfolio's.

I have found 2 lenses that look nice for what I need.


Minolta 50mm f1.7 AF Lens by MinoltaPermalink: Amazon.com: Minolta 50mm f1.7 AF Lens: Camera & Photo



80-200mm f4.5-5.6 MINOLTA AF ZOOOM LENS MAXXUM DYNAX SONY ALPHA KONICA CAMERASby MinoltaPermalink: Amazon.com: 80-200mm f4.5-5.6 MINOLTA AF ZOOOM LENS MAXXUM DYNAX SONY ALPHA KONICA CAMERAS: Camera & Photo



thoughts?
:confused:

 

ConradM

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I'm not really sure what you're asking but, I generally don't shoot in RAW because there usually isn't much to correct. It helps when you can see the exposure in real time through the viewfinder.
 

DiskoJoe

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The 50mm from Minolta is a good buy. I have one of those and its great for portraits or low light shooting at night. Now the zoom you are looking at is completely sub par for anytype of sports photography. You want a zoom that will hit at least 2.8 or a larger aperture or youll never be able to freeze action properly. Id tell you to look at a 135mm f1.8 but its way out of your range. You might look for look for a used Tamron 70-200 f2.8.
 
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Instastitch

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I'm not really sure what you're asking but, I generally don't shoot in RAW because there usually isn't much to correct. It helps when you can see the exposure in real time through the viewfinder.

I was told if you want to raise the light/color/make a black and white etc, use the raw image, its not compressed and has more room to edit.
 
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Instastitch

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I have found both online, nice lenses, how to do feel about the detail and color on the sony versus cannon/nikon?
 

DiskoJoe

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DiskoJoe

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I'm not really sure what you're asking but, I generally don't shoot in RAW because there usually isn't much to correct. It helps when you can see the exposure in real time through the viewfinder.

I was told if you want to raise the light/color/make a black and white etc, use the raw image, its not compressed and has more room to edit.

Correct. Good advice. I shoot everything in raw so I can twerk it more.
 
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Instastitch

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The 50mm from Minolta is a good buy. I have one of those and its great for portraits or low light shooting at night. Now the zoom you are looking at is completely sub par for anytype of sports photography. You want a zoom that will hit at least 2.8 or a larger aperture or youll never be able to freeze action properly. Id tell you to look at a 135mm f1.8 but its way out of your range. You might look for look for a used Tamron 70-200 f2.8.

The prime is a f1.7 and I plan on using it for vert ramp angles like http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u427/msllim/378246_4370876590984_1111727908_n_zps157e1adb.jpg
(NOTE: This was taken with a Nikon D3100 W/Fisheye)

the frame is a 1.7 on the prime, why does the zoom have to be at 2.8? Sorry Im a bit uneducated at DSLR with detachable lenses.
 

DiskoJoe

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Very nice lens.

Im kinda half n half on the sony fence atm, is it me or do the colors from all the sony pics seem to be somewhat flat?

Ivwe been shooting sony for years. I have no problem getting the colors to do what I want. You might have to push them a bit in post processing.


Mission Upload: Complete ! by DiskoJoe, on Flickr

pink sky 3 by DiskoJoe, on Flickr
 

DiskoJoe

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The 50mm from Minolta is a good buy. I have one of those and its great for portraits or low light shooting at night. Now the zoom you are looking at is completely sub par for anytype of sports photography. You want a zoom that will hit at least 2.8 or a larger aperture or youll never be able to freeze action properly. Id tell you to look at a 135mm f1.8 but its way out of your range. You might look for look for a used Tamron 70-200 f2.8.

The prime is a f1.7 and I plan on using it for vert ramp angles like http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u427/msllim/378246_4370876590984_1111727908_n_zps157e1adb.jpg
(NOTE: This was taken with a Nikon D3100 W/Fisheye)

the frame is a 1.7 on the prime, why does the zoom have to be at 2.8? Sorry Im a bit uneducated at DSLR with detachable lenses.

The smaller the aperture number the larger the hole is that lets in light (inverse relationship). basically 2.8 will shoot faster the f4.5. For vert you might want to look into getting a wide angle like a 10-20 or a fisheye. Fisheye is a really limited lens though.

See chart for details.
http://www.photography-101.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/example-aperture-chart.jpg
 
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Instastitch

Instastitch

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The 50mm from Minolta is a good buy. I have one of those and its great for portraits or low light shooting at night. Now the zoom you are looking at is completely sub par for anytype of sports photography. You want a zoom that will hit at least 2.8 or a larger aperture or youll never be able to freeze action properly. Id tell you to look at a 135mm f1.8 but its way out of your range. You might look for look for a used Tamron 70-200 f2.8.

The prime is a f1.7 and I plan on using it for vert ramp angles like http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u427/msllim/378246_4370876590984_1111727908_n_zps157e1adb.jpg
(NOTE: This was taken with a Nikon D3100 W/Fisheye)

the frame is a 1.7 on the prime, why does the zoom have to be at 2.8? Sorry Im a bit uneducated at DSLR with detachable lenses.

The smaller the aperture number the larger the hole is that lets in light (inverse relationship). basically 2.8 will shoot faster the f4.5. For vert you might want to look into getting a wide angle like a 10-20 or a fisheye. Fisheye is a really limited lens though.

See chart for details.
http://www.photography-101.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/example-aperture-chart.jpg

So the prime will work for vert, but I need to find a faster zoom? The fisheye im not 100% on, I have been using Gimp, and I can add that effect in a click.
 

DiskoJoe

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The prime is a f1.7 and I plan on using it for vert ramp angles like http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u427/msllim/378246_4370876590984_1111727908_n_zps157e1adb.jpg
(NOTE: This was taken with a Nikon D3100 W/Fisheye)

the frame is a 1.7 on the prime, why does the zoom have to be at 2.8? Sorry Im a bit uneducated at DSLR with detachable lenses.

The smaller the aperture number the larger the hole is that lets in light (inverse relationship). basically 2.8 will shoot faster the f4.5. For vert you might want to look into getting a wide angle like a 10-20 or a fisheye. Fisheye is a really limited lens though.

See chart for details.
http://www.photography-101.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/example-aperture-chart.jpg

So the prime will work for vert, but I need to find a faster zoom? The fisheye im not 100% on, I have been using Gimp, and I can add that effect in a click.

A faster zoom would be good for sports and the added DOF is nice to have for other applications too. All of my lenses are 2.8 or larger with the exception of my 10-20 which is a f3.5.
 

o hey tyler

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A faster zoom would be good for sports and the added DOF is nice to have for other applications too. All of my lenses are 2.8 or larger with the exception of my 10-20 which is a f3.5.

You don't add depth of field or background compression with a telephoto lens, subject isolation is increased.
 
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Instastitch

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background compression? eh?
 

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