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K9Kirk

Been spending a lot of time on here!
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IMG_4488 (2).webp

Shy guy
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I've noticed with a lot of my macro pics that only certain parts are in focus which does bring those certain parts in closer but leaves the rest undesirable. What's the fix for this? Would future pics look better if I pulled back some to get more in focus and just crop to bring them closer? I'd love some feedback, thanks!
 
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Don’t know too much about reason for your focus issue, but to me they look really cool to me. He’s a hairy guy
 
I've noticed with a lot of my macro pics that only certain parts are in focus which does bring those certain parts in closer but leaves the rest undesirable. What's the fix for this?

DOF is a function of distance from subject and aperture. When you get into macro your DOF becomes razor thin, so the way around that is to focus stack. An Introduction to Focus Stacking You can do it with a camera on a tripod, adjusting your focus manually between shots, but you run the risk of movement. A better way is to pickup a four way focus rail https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Focus...t=&hvlocphy=9012737&hvtargid=pla-404766725039 you can spend a lot more, but this one works fairly well. Once you have multiple images captured you merge them in Ps

Still a nice set!
 
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I've noticed with a lot of my macro pics that only certain parts are in focus which does bring those certain parts in closer but leaves the rest undesirable. What's the fix for this?

DOF is a function of distance from subject and aperture. When you get into macro your DOF becomes razor thin, so the way around that is to focus stack. An Introduction to Focus Stacking You can do it with a camera on a tripod, adjusting your focus manually between shots, but you run the risk of movement. A better way is to pickup a four way focus rail https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Focus...t=&hvlocphy=9012737&hvtargid=pla-404766725039 you can spend a lot more, but this one works fairly well. Once you have multiple images captured you merge them in Ps

Still a nice set!

Thanks for the info!
 
@K9Kirk There are several on TPF that do some really outstanding focus stacked macros, if you search. Here's one from a fellow member I follow: Wasp Just bear in mind that it can become obsessive as you start stacking more and more images to pull out that last little bit of sharpness. My ADD kicks in when get up close to 20 in a stack, and I have to quit. LOL
 
@K9Kirk There are several on TPF that do some really outstanding focus stacked macros, if you search. Here's one from a fellow member I follow: Wasp Just bear in mind that it can become obsessive as you start stacking more and more images to pull out that last little bit of sharpness. My ADD kicks in when get up close to 20 in a stack, and I have to quit. LOL

I really appreciate everything you're doing but to be honest it's enough for me to just take good pictures and do the little bit of editing that I currently do. It would take all my time to do that kind of work although I wouldn't mind knowing how to do it if I ever capture that rare picture that deserves the utmost attention. If you have any tips for just improving my photography skills vs editing skills I am all ears. Thanks again, you're a great guy! (BTW, I'm ADD as well so I feel your pain, everything can be a struggle at times)
 
I've noticed with a lot of my macro pics that only certain parts are in focus which does bring those certain parts in closer but leaves the rest undesirable. What's the fix for this? Would future pics look better if I pulled back some to get more in focus and just crop to bring them closer? I'd love some feedback, thanks!

Hi K9,
what you're running into is the super shallow DOF that comes from such a close distance from camera to subject. And, as you very correctly predicted, if you "pull back", or increase the camera to subject distance, you will increase your DOF and have more in focus. The problem of pull back then cropping - the image quality degrades...

So, how are you going to increase your DOF in your macro shots? As smoke said, DOF is a function of distance to subject and aperture. Also sensor size but that isn't a variable for most people. To increase your DOF you can increase your subject distance or use a smaller aperture opening... or focus stack in software.

This is a great learning opportunity for you. Have a look at an online DOF calculator like this one:
Online Depth of Field Calculator
Input your camera and lens information. Then set up a static object (a flower or maybe something the size of a bee) and measure how far it is from the lens in a typical macro shot. Use that figure for your subject distance. Then you can play with the selected f-stop and see what DOF will result.

I would guess to get most of a bee in focus we need at least 1/2 inch DOF. For my D800 and 105mm macro, I might shoot a bee at 15 inches subject distance. To get a half inch of DOF, the calculator tells me I need to shoot at f/22. That's a small aperture opening! That's why macro shooters often end up using tripods to get slower shutter speeds, or flashes to add more light.

Just like bird shooting is a battle for focal length and shutter speed, macro shooting is a battle for DOF.
 
I've noticed with a lot of my macro pics that only certain parts are in focus which does bring those certain parts in closer but leaves the rest undesirable. What's the fix for this? Would future pics look better if I pulled back some to get more in focus and just crop to bring them closer? I'd love some feedback, thanks!

Hi K9,
what you're running into is the super shallow DOF that comes from such a close distance from camera to subject. And, as you very correctly predicted, if you "pull back", or increase the camera to subject distance, you will increase your DOF and have more in focus. The problem of pull back then cropping - the image quality degrades...

So, how are you going to increase your DOF in your macro shots? As smoke said, DOF is a function of distance to subject and aperture. Also sensor size but that isn't a variable for most people. To increase your DOF you can increase your subject distance or use a smaller aperture opening... or focus stack in software.

This is a great learning opportunity for you. Have a look at an online DOF calculator like this one:
Online Depth of Field Calculator
Input your camera and lens information. Then set up a static object (a flower or maybe something the size of a bee) and measure how far it is from the lens in a typical macro shot. Use that figure for your subject distance. Then you can play with the selected f-stop and see what DOF will result.

I would guess to get most of a bee in focus we need at least 1/2 inch DOF. For my D800 and 105mm macro, I might shoot a bee at 15 inches subject distance. To get a half inch of DOF, the calculator tells me I need to shoot at f/22. That's a small aperture opening! That's why macro shooters often end up using tripods to get slower shutter speeds, or flashes to add more light.

Just like bird shooting is a battle for focal length and shutter speed, macro shooting is a battle for DOF.

I have a 105mm Sigma so I'll try some shots at 15" but I'll check out that web site as well, thank you!
 
15" is just a guess at a typical distance to subject. Your results are going to come from increasing the distance, or stopping down the lens. Most likely a combination thereof.

Your original question re-worded is "why is DOF so thin in my macro pics and how do I increase the DOF?" This is where the concept of DOF enters your "real world" picture taking. Understanding DOF and using a DOF calculator app on your phone or an online calculator like the one I linked is the answer.
 
I think there's broadly to different ways to do it: crop close for maximum detail or provide some well composed context.

Rule of thumb is that as long as the eyes are in focus then oof areas are generally acceptable.

Focus stacking can work but needs a still subject.

1 is nice and sharp. I think it would have been equally valid to include the whole flower, but cropping in here works well

2 is a belter of a shot but compositionally it's a bit in the middle ground. I think this would have worked better either as a whole flower (but isolated) or closer in to emphasise the bee hiding.

3&4 have missed focus, so it would be the cutting room floor for me. It can be useful to shoot a burst here and slightly move your body back or forward to move the plane of focus through the shot and hopefully land that thin DOF on an eye

5 Almost hit the focus here, but it's just out. I think it could do with a little more flower in this shot, working the petals into a diagonal line I think could have been interesting.
 

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