Battery question (DIY, electronics)

I would maybe try it, especially for what you can get used vivitar flashes for, probably not so much with a new 580exii. You could burn up 2 or 3 used flashes before you reach the cost of one of canon's power packs, and sometimes experience and knowledge is priceless.
 
I was referring to doubling the voltage as the OP stated from 6V to 12V not the difference in between charged 6V batteries and slightly used 1.3V per battery generating a total of 5.2V...
Obviously the circuit is designed for 6V so dropping the voltage to 5.2V will slow the recycling time, however nothing more than 6V will increase the recycling time of the flash unless it is build for it. Think about the difference of the spark from a set of fresh 6V batteries peaking a spark at 4000V vs slightly discharged batteries holding 5.2V producing around 3000-3500V off the spark meaning it would take roughly 10-30% extra time to reach that required 4000V spark which hits the bulb for 100% power.

In easier terms, imagine a brand new car shock vs a used shock... the used shock will take longer and will not be able to take those sharp hits as well as a brand new shock which is much more responsive. Both situations will get you to the same point when the car is at a still, but lose performance when the shock is required to work.
Now doubling the PSI to double will most likely burst the shock as it is not designed to withstand such pressure.

Trigger voltage (that ignites the tube causing the ionized gas to conduct) is typically 4K to 10K, the cathode to anode voltage is typically either ~400V or ~900v, depending on the design. Most studio packs and the majority of portable flash units are of the 400V flavor. The trigger voltage is derived from the cathode to anode voltage, using a very small 10:1 transformer as extremely low current is required.

On the larger subject, I'd be very, very skeptical of trying to run a portable off of much more than 10% above nominal voltage (e.g. 6.6v istead of 6v), the majority of electronics today are designed from a value driven determinant, reducing cost to a managable rate of failure. Designing in 200% headroom isn't likely at the level of equipment we're talking about. In fact, there's darn few reasons to ever design that much Vin headroom, from an engineering standpoint.
 
If it is for indoor where there is a wall socket, it maybe easier just buy the power adapter for the Vivitar 285hv flash. That is what I have and it make the recycle time shorter. But I do need to have the batteries in the flash unit.

If you need to take it out, you can get one of those emergency power (with inverter) such as the one from Schneider, Duracell etc (from the automotive section)

i.e.
Amazon.com: Duracell DPP-600HD Powerpack 600 Jump Starter & Emergency Power Source with Radio: Automotive
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I Can't find the link, but at least one of the Chinese third party companies does offer a very cheap pack that used the The Vivitar's HV connector, and provides faster recycle and longer battery life. Also connecting a small 6v lead acid gel cell to the battery terminals will work well, it does not increase the recycle time much, but it does keep it at its fastest for much longer than AA batteries.
 
...Higher octane gas does not make your compression go up. lol. Higher octane burns faster and cleaner which creates more power. Compression in the cylinder is based on how much room there is left in the cylinder when the piston is a TDC. Domed pistons, small chamber heads, will both increase compression. What gas you put in it does not matter. You may be confused, in if your running I high compression engine, with low octane fuel, you will get a pinging noise because the cylinder is pre-detonating.

Actually, higher octane fuels burn more slowly. It's part of the definition of the octane rating in fact.

Exactly, in fact using higher octane fuel in a car that doesn't require it reduces horsepower.
 

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