Black photo in manual when using Sunny 16.

F16 1/125 indoors?

Come on

Doesn't take much to realise that will be drastically underexposed.

Not for someone who understands exposure .. I have a lot of friends who couldn't tell you what aperture values or shutter speeds are/mean though.

This is true, but after reading up on Sunny 16 you should know that, it aint gonna work indoors.
 
With that in mind, maybe it wouldn't hurt me to get a film camera with no light meter and challenge myself to get familiar with making those judgements.
All you have to do is shoot in manual with your current camera and ignore anything your meter shows.
 
With that in mind, maybe it wouldn't hurt me to get a film camera with no light meter and challenge myself to get familiar with making those judgements.
All you have to do is shoot in manual with your current camera and ignore anything your meter shows.

That would do it! But the temptation to "cheat" would be there... lol!
 
F16 1/125 indoors?

Come on

Doesn't take much to realise that will be drastically underexposed.

Not for someone who understands exposure .. I have a lot of friends who couldn't tell you what aperture values or shutter speeds are/mean though.

This is true, but after reading up on Sunny 16 you should know that, it aint gonna work indoors.

Reading up on Sunny 16 wouldn't mean much if the individual doing the reading didn't know what F/16 and 1/125 meant.

How many people do you know who snap photos all day long on a point and shoot with no understanding of what the camera was doing for them? Or even on a DSLR in Auto?

They could see Sunny 16 referenced, while browsing a site, sitting in their office, with the sunlight visible through their window and think "wow cool" without realizing the effect those settings would have in the dim light of that room.
 
I couldn't help be a little snarky, also. I wasn't even sure if this was a prank.

But the OP has no concept of how significant our physiology affects the perception of brightness or dynamic range, either.
 
Agreed.. the human eye can detect light WAY beyond what a camera is capable of doing. The latitude that it's capable of is astonishing compared to camera optics.
 
With that in mind, maybe it wouldn't hurt me to get a film camera with no light meter and challenge myself to get familiar with making those judgements.
All you have to do is shoot in manual with your current camera and ignore anything your meter shows.

That would do it! But the temptation to "cheat" would be there... lol!

I typically only cheat when there's money or my life involved... :lmao: J/K

Seriously though, I really do want to dive into shooting film just for the experience. I think I could gain a lot from stepping back to that aspect of photography, learning about developing and processing.. and now of course, gaining an appreciation for working without a light meter. I think all of these things could benefit my photography and on top of that, it would just be fun to do.
 
This graph helped me understand light value to estimate correct exposure.

$2124175721_591714ec93.jpg

LV 15 sunlight
LV 13 cloudy
LV 10 very overcast
LV 5-7 indoors

That would get you started, then you can make minor adjustments. When you increase ISO (from 100) just subtract 1 LV for every step you raise.
I hope that makes sense.
 
^^ i understand equivalent exposure pretty well, but those charts confuse the shizz out of me. I always have to take a double look to figure out what's going on.
 
You start from ISO 100, 1 second, F1. From there is just simple addition and subtraction.
 
God. That just makes it worse!!

I get it. I do. Those charts just kind of freak me out.
 
Yeah well it isn't a perfectly sunny day, I mean it is a little overcast but surely it wouldn't be entirely black.

Yeah I don't own a lens cap so that is impossible, it fell off a year ago in Vietnam into the ocean, also I am not a bumbling idiot (despite losing my lens cap, I swear it was my brothers fault) but I am sure you get many on here so I won't take offense to it. I tried many different settings and it works perfect when I use other modes. The photos are fine in Auto/landscape etc so not a lens issue.

That sucks, I really thought this would be some common mistake and I would feel silly for not adjusting the whatever setting I will play around with it some more after work and see if I can fix the issue.

Do you know by any chance how to reset it to default that may help me.

Thanks a lot for the help,

I truly wish it was a lens cap issue.

Remember back when I asked the following question:

Were you, in fact, taking a photo of a subject outdoors in noon-day sunlight -- full sun?


And you sort of ignored that question and chose to respond about the lens cap...

"Exposure" is all about the light that YOUR SUBJECT is in when you take the photo. It does not matter how bright it is outside when you are taking a photo inside. If the full sun is illuminating your subject, then you're not in full-sun... you're indoors... or you're in shade. You cannot use the "Sunny 16" rule indoors. You'll need to use a light meter indoors. The sunny 16 rule works for outdoor photos because the sun turns out to be a very consistent provider of light -- as long as there are no clouds in the way, no trees in the way, no obstructions of any kind and the sun is high in the sky so there's not even a lot of atmosphere in the way.

Inside it's completely different... we have no idea if your room has windows, how many, how large, whether you have curtains, whether you have lamps illuminating the room, etc. The lighting is completely variable so we cannot create a general rule for lighting indoors. Indoors you'll have to meter the shot. You can use a flash and NOT meter the shot because with the right flash setup, the amount of light delivered in comparison to the ambient light can be so dramatically different that the ambient light is no longer contributing significantly to the exposure... but that's a different type of photography. Most of the time, you'll need to meter when indoors.

 

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