Blending-Merging Images for Correct Exposure in Photoshop CC

[Roger3006]

Hello Everyone,
Quite often, I shoot several images of a product with either different lighting angles or even different exposures. I open all the images as layers via Lightroom. I convert all but one to a mask and use the best of all for the effect I am trying to achieve.

If Photoshop CC will do this automatically I can not figure out where it is hiding.
Excuse the pun, but can anyone shed some light on this subject.
Thanks and have a great week.
Roger

 

[sscarmack]

I'm assuming you know what HDR is?

I prefer to do everything manually, so I can get the exact look I'm after.

 

[Roger3006]

Somewhat familiar with HDR. Used it in Lightroom with marginal success.

I photograph firearms. Deal with different reflective surfaces with every curve and angle you can imagine. I am always dealing with hotspots. I deal in older high grade firearms. I can't alter what is under the hotspot, ie clone stamp.

I am getting good results doing it manually; however, I am always looking for a faster method.


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[jsecordphoto]

Look into using luminosity masks for blending, it'll make your life much easier.

 

[Roger3006]

Thank you all for you advice and consideration. Y'all are very much appreciated.


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[Buckster]

You should take a really good look at this software:

HDR ReLight

Pop the video on that page full screen and watch it. I think it can help you with your specific needs.

 

[tirediron]

Why not simply light it so that you get the desired result in a single image? Small objects light firearms are relatively easy to light in terms of the equipment requirements; 2-3 small monolights or speedlights, softobxes, diffusion fabric and white & black cards. Once you get the basics down, it will save you an immense amount of time. Buy the lighting bible.

 

[Roger3006]

The image below is an example of what I do. I photograph a particular firearm and sell it. I am not doing a conceptual shot for multiple copies of a homogenous product. Time is a big factor.

Given more time, I could have made this image look much better than it does; however, there are about thirty more detailed images to go with it.


I am a believer in shooting it right and doing very little post processing; however, practicality must come into play or I would starve to death.


My studio is full of lighting equipment.

 

[Roger3006]

I can't afford to spend more than five minutes on a shot's like the ones below. They were easy. The one above is not simple to light.

 

[tirediron]

Okay.... I'm confused. Time is a big factor, but you shoot 30+ images???? Those bottom two images are nicely done, but I don't see anything that represents more than ten minutes set-up and 5 minutes (at the most) in post processing. Certainly I would think vastly less time than that required to merge & blend 30 files...

 

[Roger3006]

The bottom two were simple. The first one was not. Three places are going to want to wash out. The front of the forearm and the front and rear part of the pistol grip. It takes an complex lighting setup for the top image to get it right.

The top image was composed of three images. First and what I will call the master was done with 2 soft boxes. Two and three were done one light at a time from opposite angles.

If I am working on an inexpensive gun I don't worry to much about it and do the best I can. The shotgun shown I will call medium value, but easily considered a high grade, which will sell in the low twenties. There is not another shotgun exactly like this one. Wood will be different as will engraving.

Thanks for your input. We will figure this out.


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[tirediron]

Are you using a polarizer?

 

[Roger3006]

I do use a polarizer, almost always. A polarizer takes care of most problems on wood; however, not much effect on metal. The problem with hot spots is almost always on wood. A polarizing screen also adds some contrast.

Older Smith & Wesson revolvers have a beautiful shinny deep blue finish. It is hard to capture but a polarizer helps. Getting it right sells guns and does look good.

You are very limited on handgun ownership in Canada. The US is buying more polymer handguns such as Glocks which are not pretty. There is only so many ways to photograph something ugly and you always get ugly. I like the old blue and wood; however, I broker what comes in the door.

A firearm is has black matte metal and a black matte polymer can be photographed as fast as you can re-position the gun and point the camera. The correct angels add interest but they just are not pretty. Is you can see, I am a little old fashion.

I did not put my Hasselblad down until about four years ago when my custom processor died. My F4's are also collecting dust.

Roger

 

[Roger3006]

Below are images of a S&W revolver that was done quickly. When you learn exactly how to set up the shots it is easy. I do admit there was some trial and error getting thing the way I wanted them to look.

 

[tirediron]

How far from the weapon are you typically placing your lights?