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Boom Arm, what do you think?

sscarmack

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After posting my new photo, I came to the conclusion I need to add a good boom arm to my collection.

I immediately went to BH as I do most of my shopping there. This is what their specialist suggested in this order

Matthews Hollywood Century C Stand Grip Head Kit, Black B756040
Matthews Baby Boom 427801 B&H Photo Video
Impact Turtle Base C-Stand Kit - 10.75' (Chrome) LS-CT40MK B&H

Also a sand bag
IMSB15B | B&H Photo Video


I believe this is what Derrel recommended?
Midwest Photo Exchange LumoPro Complete Boom Set 694, stand, boom arm and counter weight



Lets discuss some boom
 
Me personally, I use Kupo and Avenger kit. I am quite fond of the quick lock turtle base C stand (the Impact unit appears to be the same unit for less money). If you are going with sandbags for counterweights you might want to look into a boom arm like the Avenger D600 since it has a hook on it for sandbags. The Matthews boom may have a hook, but I can't see one in the images. If it doesn't you'll need a clamp to hold the weight in place.

Whichever company you choose to go with, I'd recommend a good, dedicated boom arm, C-stand, baby drop down pin, and, if you get the C stand with the grip kit, pick up a 6 inch baby pin too. It'll come in handy when you want to mount a light on the grip arm. Sometimes you just want to get the light and modifier a little away from the stand, having the grip head, arm, and baby pin makes that easy.
 
We use the Matthews Hollywood C stands here with the head kit. Sturdy useful product but doesn't work well as a boom arm as the actual arm is quite short and somewhat thin. No weight hooks there.
 
I have a really cheap one, and with my super small promaster 160 it bends and flexes lol. So I would like something sturdy, as I want it for my main light.

Einstein 640, with either a beauty dish or octabox. 6lbs?
 
I have a really cheap one, and with my super small promaster 160 it bends and flexes lol. So I would like something sturdy, as I want it for my main light.

Einstein 640, with either a beauty dish or octabox. 6lbs?

The Matthews head kit will hold 6 lbs just fine without bending pretty much it's just that I'm not sure you will have a lot flexibility with the overtop octabox on a 40" arm - feels short. Works great as a stand though.
 
The difference is that the rolling stand is ON WHEELS, so it glides, and it doesn't get knocked over--it rollllllls away from any impacts. Secondly, the boom stand has a much wider stance than a C-stand, and you have a "real" boom arm; one that is long enough to support a 9-foot roll of background paper; NOT a 40-inch grip arm, but a real, long boom arm, one that is long enough (in my case 109 inches or about 9 feet,measured). The one MPEX is selling is 8 feet, and they list 6 feet useful, with 2 foot left for grip and ballast positioning. MPex is advertising an 8-foot boom arm.

The difference is that one item is a ROLLING BOOM STAND, and the other is a C-stand with either a short 40-inch grip arm, OR a $209 boom arm that goes on top of a C-stand, and costs more than the other solution and offers basically only half of the benefits of the actual thing it is imitating the function of.

One of the reasons I said the rolling boom stand is so useful is that it can be used as a background hanger... and it's long enough to allow you to position the light high up and farrrr over the set. Second, the rolling boom stand's base is adjustable as far as how it is set up: you can spread the legs out far. Mine goes from 28-inch spread to 38-inch spread. My C-stands are fixed at 31-inch spread of legs. One choice.

The reason I like the rolling boom stand is that it's easy to roll it, which keeps the modeling lamps safe from jostling when they are on and the filaments are hot. The real secret in "people" photography is to move the light through a bit of an arc, to literally SEE and to PREVIEW what the exact main light placement does; that is why a rolling stand is so useful, because it encourages you to MOVE the light to see different options. You can do that with an easy touch with a boom stand. You cannot do that the same way at all with a C-stand. Unless you spring for a roller base for it. ANd by then, you've spent more money.

The second thing is that, unless you buy removeable base C-stands, C-stands are are avery awkward L-shape when transported, wheareas the boom stand folds up like a giant lightstand...in other words, it packs more easily...C-stands are a royal PITA to pack around.

One option is a C-stand and a short grip arm that functions 'sort of like' a boom stand, while the other option is an actual, wheeled base boom stand with long boom arm and heavy counterweight. On hiiiiigh elevation shots, you want a wheeled boom stand, and that 38-inch leg spread really makes the safety level for both the equipment and the guests go upward. Neither device is the same, neither is better, but when you want an actual rolling boom stand with a long boom arm, the choice is clear as to what one device actually *is* and what the other has sort of been jimmied into being...
 
Wow Derrel! That was an excellent post. And I completely agree with the ease of use with a roller and think thats the route I'd like to go.

I don't mind spending $200 on a good boom, I spent $250 on my Manfrotto tripod I think.

Thanks for the input
 
I happen to own all Matthews grip equipment, since that's what I've been used to working with for years. My go-to stands for still photography are: Matthews' steel baby rollers (studio), and Matthews' steel or aluminum baby stands (location). I think these are the three most useful stands in grip for photography. I don't ever need to boom out too far, so I've been very happy with Matthews' Mini-Boom. I own two of each of these:

• Matthews Hollywood Baby Jr. triple-riser, all-steel, rolling stand
• Matthews Mini Boom

I typically use one rolling stand/mini-boom for the key, and the second rolling stand/mini-boom for a backlight. I usually hang a 400Ws monolight with either a 3' or 5' octa, using a baby drop-down pin in a grip head at the end of the boom (the mini-boom also has a hook on the other end, where I hang a small strap-style shot bag for ballast). I bring these rolling set-ups to any location where there's solid, level ground.

I've used the larger Matthews booms when lighting for TV, and they seemed to work fine. But those are more than I'd care to deal with for stills, since larger booms require larger stands, more ballast, plus tie-downs. I haven't tried the Avenger equivalents--perhaps their designs might be better. I just bought a Calumet over-sized grip head at their store liquidation, and it's awesome (its main clamp is saw-toothed), so there may be better alternatives to the Matthews booms out there that I just don't know about.

For uneven ground on-location (grass, sand, etc.), I use Matthews' baby stands with Rocky Mountain (leveling) legs. The all-steel Beefy Baby stand allows you to use fewer shot bags, and rig larger lights or scrims at greater heights. I also like the aluminum baby stands because of their lightweight construction (but, they carry less load, and need more ballast). Note, however, if using a boom, the steel Beefy Baby stands are preferred since the aluminum stands flex a lot more:

• Matthews Hollywood Beefy Baby, triple-riser, all-steel stand
• Matthews Baby aluminum stand

For C-stands, I have all-black Matthews 40" double-riser stands, with 40" grip arms, plus one short C-stand with a 20" grip arm. I also have a pile of 15-lb. shot bags, which are more compact (but, a lot more expensive) than sand-filled bags. For lightweight location stands, I have a pile of cheap Photoflex stands (similar to Arri or Manfrotto lightweight stands) which work fine for Speedlights. When hanging 9' seamless paper, I just put two grip heads onto two Photoflex lightweight stands, and secure a 10' piece of 5/8" electrical conduit directly into the grip heads.
 
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I've used the larger Matthews booms when lighting for TV, and they seemed to work fine. But those are more than I'd care to deal with for stills, since larger booms require larger stands, more ballast, plus tie-downs.

Note that if choosing between the Matthews Mini Boom and the Baby Boom, the latter would be better for your Einstein E640. I use a Dynalite Uni400Jr. on my Mini Boom, but the Dynalite is almost half the weight of the E640. The larger boom will sag less, and only weighs a few pounds more than the Mini. Go with the Baby Boom and a good baby stand (not a C-stand), or check out the Avenger products.
 
I use an Alzo 10' stand and boom arm. The boom arm extends to 60" and comes with an integrated 5lb counterweight but you can add more weight if needed. The stand is 10' heavy duty with air cushion. I also have casters that can be quickly fitted if on a smooth surface (recommended).

ALZO Digital Studio Boom
 
I was looking at some of the Avenger booms on B+H, and you may get a bit more boom for your money with the Avenger brand over Matthews. Their booms look pretty good, and some even come with an incuded counterweight. Note that for longer spans, many pro shooters will rig a length of 1-1/4" speedrail (which actually has an OD of 1.66") across the top of two combo stands or high-rollers. Matthews makes a speedrail "ear" and grid clamps for attaching speedrail to various stands or other rigging:

• Matthews 1-1/4" speedrail ear
• Matthews grid clamp
 
Boom stand? Never leave home with out one.

Seriously, what have you been putting your hair light on?

I have a really cheap one, that holds my Promaster 160a (Which is what I use for my hair or rim light), and its only 2lbs and it still flexes at 3 feet lol. So I'm going to get two new booms and slowly start upgrading my strobes.

Heres what I have.

Einstein 640
Promaster 300c
Promaster 160a

Two heavy duty light stands
One cheap boom

Background stands


I plan on getting two more Einsteins, getting rid of the promasters, grab two really nice booms and get a copy of modifiers (Octabox, strip, etc)
 

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