Children's Clothes Modeling

[RxForB3]

Sounds like good advice. Now I just need to find some catalogs. Or I suppose I could look online at kids clothing stores...

 

[John27]

Disclaimer: Newbie here.

That said, I've had trouble with nailing focus on people shots too. So when I can (when they are posing) I like to switch to manual focus and use live view. I zoom in all the way with live view (as in zoom in on the image, to 10x on the T1i), adjust so the LCD shows the area I want to be sharpest (usually eyes) and manually focus that way. I don't know if that's the 'right' way to do it, but it seems to work for me.

Also, the white balance appears off to me too. White balance is super finnicky with portraits. Consider using a grey card in the future to get your white balance? No need to guess when the tools are cheap!

I also wish there was more background separation, like having the girls farther away from the fence in the last one, using a low f-Stop, and the end result would soften the focus in the background achieving separation AND making the background appear less 'busy'.

Just my noobie $0.02. Good luck!

 

[RxForB3]

I think the main key is separating them from the background (and having a better background to begin with). These were mostly shot at 1.8 or around 2.8, so I can't really use a lower f-stop. However, I can easily put more separation between them and the background next time if I plan ahead

I'll have to try using manual focus if my experimentation with the new camera doesn't seem to help. I guess I really just need to get out and experiment on my son.

I'm not very good with white balance, either. But I shoot RAW, so at least I can always fix that later even if I don't have a grey card with me.

 

[tirediron]

To summarize what's been said (and perhaps add something as well): Product photography is about the PRODUCT! In this case the clothing; it must be shown to full advantage, and not lost in awkward poses, or compete with busy backgrounds. Look for simple scenes which say "children" (for instance have them walking out of a playground where the swings/slides/etc are softly focused, but distinct enough to be recognizable and not compete). Use longer glass and a large aperture, and work on your lighting. At a minimum you will need 1-2 large (>48") reflectors to pull this off.

 

[RxForB3]

Makes sense. Except maybe not a playground since they are dress clothes? Maybe a church steeple in the background? Or any other suggestions for suggestive backgrounds?

I have a 50mm 1.8, the 24-105mm kit lens, the 100mm f/2.8L macro, a 24mm f/1.4L II, and a Sigma 50-500 non-stabilized. Which would you think would be best to use? I like the 100mm, but the last time I used it someone said the bokeh was too sharp edged or some such and that I should use a different lens...

 

[PinkDoor]

Makes sense. Except maybe not a playground since they are dress clothes? Maybe a church steeple in the background? Or any other suggestions for suggestive backgrounds?

I have a 50mm 1.8, the 24-105mm kit lens, the 100mm f/2.8L macro, a 24mm f/1.4L II, and a Sigma 50-500 non-stabilized. Which would you think would be best to use? I like the 100mm, but the last time I used it someone said the bokeh was too sharp edged or some such and that I should use a different lens...

Eeewww,no! You are making it about the background! Think: large open field with trees in the distance, or stone wall. Something like this (below), keeping in mind this was NOT a product shoot, but something simple, no distracting backgrounds or drapes, natural light enhances the clothes. In this photo, there is a largish chair, but think smaller like a stool or something small and easy:

 

[tirediron]

...Eeewww,no! You are making it about the background! Think: large open field with trees in the distance, or stone wall. Something like this (below), keeping in mind this was NOT a product shoot, but something simple, no distracting backgrounds or drapes...

The secret is to use a DoF that provides a suggestion of the background. One of the purposes of the background is to help subconsiously situate the viewer. A large open field, with, or without a chair doesn't really additional input on the clothing.

 

[RxForB3]

I see what both of you are saying. I think both would work if done right. I looked at some pics online of kid's clothing and a lot of them had a seamless white background. So I think it's not so much that a suggestive background is necessary, but if there IS a background, it should be suggestive...

 

[nycphotography]

Set design, set design, set design. Well, plus composition.

As has been mentioned, the tree and the cloth are... just ugh. Move the tree out, lose the cloth, and shoot her just on the arm of the couch w/ the plain wall.

First shot has a great expression. If you could get that expression (I'm having fun wearing these clothes and not pouting because I hate them) and also show the dress, then you'd have a winner.

Nobody thinks a chain link fence is "fashionable". Well, not for cute girls dresses at least. But I see that wagon wheel BEHIND the fence. Drag it out in the middle, maybe stick a wooden bench next to it and a half barrel full of flowers. Get them to play around and have fun with the set/props while you shoot.

Shoot wide open at ~200mm (35mm equiv) f2.8 to separate them from the background. I often shoot models @ 200mm on a Dx nikon... thats 300mm equiv.

MAYBE climb up on a step ladder and shoot down at them to isolate them from the distracting background.

You can try shooting them backlit, but METER on the faces. This will bring the background up a couple stops which will brighten the entire scene (but will also wash out any color in the sky).

Just some ideas you can try.

 

[nycphotography]

That said, I've had trouble with nailing focus on people shots too. So when I can (when they are posing) I like to switch to manual focus and use live view. I zoom in all the way with live view (as in zoom in on the image, to 10x on the T1i), adjust so the LCD shows the area I want to be sharpest (usually eyes) and manually focus that way. I don't know if that's the 'right' way to do it, but it seems to work for me.

Live view, unless on a tripod, is incredibly hard to hold steady. A viewfinder is just about the only way to shoot fashion... and focus on the eyes. Always on the eyes (unless you have a da** good reason not to).

 

[tirediron]

I see what both of you are saying. I think both would work if done right. I looked at some pics online of kid's clothing and a lot of them had a seamless white background. So I think it's not so much that a suggestive background is necessary, but if there IS a background, it should be suggestive...

White seamless is a different approach; the "LOOK AT THE FREAKIN' CLOTHES 'cause there's nothing else to see" approach. It's definitely a way to go, but to do a white seamless/high-key shot properly is going to require at least three (better with 4-5) off camera strobes, a roll of white seamless, background stand (or wall that you can nail/staple to) and a fair amount of practice. It's not as easy as many people think it is.

 

[nycphotography]

I see what both of you are saying. I think both would work if done right. I looked at some pics online of kid's clothing and a lot of them had a seamless white background. So I think it's not so much that a suggestive background is necessary, but if there IS a background, it should be suggestive...

White seamless is a different approach; the "LOOK AT THE FREAKIN' CLOTHES 'cause there's nothing else to see" approach. It's definitely a way to go, but to do a white seamless/high-key shot properly is going to require at least three (better with 4-5) off camera strobes, a roll of white seamless, background stand (or wall that you can nail/staple to) and a fair amount of practice. It's not as easy as many people think it is.

I disagree. You can shoot product / catalog w/ a single softbox, and a couple foamcore bounce cards. The white doesn't have to be high key, it can be grey gradient too. If it has to be pure white (ie, for easier compositing, then yes, you'll need a background light.

Of course more lights give more flexibility... but not necessarily better results. If you don't have experience w/ multilight metering, a single softbox will almost certainly give better results.