Gavjenks
TPF Noob!
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- May 9, 2013
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(Feeling a little uncomfortable)
Yall are making it way too complicated.
Larger apertures and greater MAGNIFICATION = shallower DOF.
^ sentence explains it all, short of an equation.
As with other simple statements about DoF this might be best when accompanied by the condition that it doesn't really apply when comparing between formats, unless both the magnification of the object at the film/sensor and the magnification from the film/sensor to the final image remain unchanged between formats. There are other conditions when it doesn't apply even for constant format size. In fact, it only really applies when the lenses being compared are focused significantly closer than their hyperfocal distance, as Ysarex mentions.
The simple version is not intended to provide quantitative exact comparisons between anything. Neither different formats, nor even any particular magnifications or apertures. It makes no guarantees about linear relationships, either.
The point is simply that if you are standing somewhere, in any given situation, and you want a shallower depth of field, you can get it by either:
A) Using a larger aperture than you have right now, or
B) Using a lesser magnification on the stuff you want blurred than you have right now (which can be accomplished by using a longer focal length and then framing the subject the same way, which makes background objects more magnified than with a smaller focal length, and thus blurrier when not in focus. Or can be accomplished by recomposing the shot and walking closer, with the subject now larger in the viewfinder than before, and perhaps even in other ways.)
Both will always be true when considered relative to your current settings. And for practical purposes, I think this is the smallest number of factors that you can worry about, while still covering all your bases in terms of possible things you can actually change in the field. I.e., if you think of everything in terms of magnification and aperture, you will be able to successfully make all the DOF practical decisions that are available to you and might actually help you get the shot (Things like sensor size and the final size of the print matter, but are not things you can usually change standing in the field composing your shot). Additionally, actually CHECKING the DOF using the DOF preview button is usually going to be much faster and more accurate than attempting to calculate equations. Thus, relative relationships are generally plenty good enough to get you going in the right direction in changing things, then the final decision can be made from double checking the results.
Obviously, intuition / years of experience are even better than calculation OR estimating then checking, but I can't very well instruct people to just use those. They have to come to you naturally.
And to be crystal clear about what I mean by "magnification:"
"Magnification" as I am using it means the distance that an object of given real world length (say, 6 feet) takes up in your viewfinder.
So a 6 foot tall man that takes up only 1/10th of your viewfinder is half as magnified as a 6 foot tall man that takes up 1/5th of your viewfinder.
This is, in my opinion, the simplest way to think about it in the field that actually pretty well approximates the mathematics behind circles of confusion and actual DOF.
Example: changing focal length
If you use a shorter focal length, then the objects in the background (usually the ones that are blurred) will get smaller in the viewfinder relative to their actual size. Thus less magnified, thus deeper DOF. This is true EVEN IF you move to reframe your main foreground subject the way it was before (in this case, the DOF on your subject won't significantly change, because it's magnification is almost identical, but the stuff in the background, more of which is now crammed into the same space, will become noticeably sharper).
Example: changing distance to subject
If you keep the same focal length, but walk halfway to your subject, then they will be twice as magnified as they were before, thus shallower DOF.
Again, do not assume linear relationships or hard and fast rules. These are relative approximations of a more complicated reality. But if you attempt to think about the actual calculations, you will just get frozen and miss the shot. Thus, rules of thumb.
In fact, if you want completely predictable, calculatable reality, you are in the wrong place when it comes to DOF anyway. DOF is a psychological construct that is rooted heavily on our own perception, and can never be fully calculated by any equation known today. Actual DOF of the viewer of a print will depend on many many factors that have nothing to do with your camera or the subject of the photo, and are completely out of your control or knowledge. Things like:
1) Whether the viewer is old or young (eyesight resolving ability)
2) How far a person chooses to stand away from your print when viewing it
3) Whether the viewer is drunk or sober
4) Whether the viewer has cataracts
5) The degree to which the viewer is paying attention to your photo versus glancing absentmindedly at it (the brain will fill in details more or less in different situations)
6) How LONG the person looks at your photo (more likely to fill in imaginary details if they look at it a shorter time)
7) Where the viewer chooses to focus in the image (only a tiny portion of your vision has maximum resolution, and they won't scan the entire image evenly, even if they look at it for 10 minutes). In other words, areas that draw the eye in your image require more sharpness than areas that don't
8) Whether the viewer is looking at the print from an angle or not.
9) Blah blah etc. etc.
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