Disappointing Photos with Nikon D3200

[stevenlanephotos]

I have been using the Nikon D3200 for nearly 3 years now having upgraded from a bridge camera. I have consistently been disappointed with the photos, which always seem to lack vibrancy and sharpness. The lens I use is: Nikon Dx AF NIKKOR 18-55 (VR). I also use a Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-300mm which produces somewhat better results.

Previous photos from my bridge camera were more vibrant and sharper. I am familiar with holding the camera properly etc to avoid camera shake. I have also tried using a tripod. My wife seems to get better pictures using a budget phone (Moto G4 Plus).

I attach a photo taken with the D3200 ( a little over exposed I think, but which still demonstrates the point, compared with the other photo of the same scene taken seconds later with the camera phone - so in much the same light and conditions.

I also always notice that photos from the D3200 seem to have a certain shade of green and appear very flat.

I am seriously thinking of selling the camera and starting again.

I wonder first though if anyone might comment or advise ( Am I asking too much from an entry level DSLR).

I have tried uploading my D3200 file but after 5 attempts of getting an error message, I am instead inserting a link to my google drive. The moto g4 image is below as a thumbnail.

walking with a friend.JPG

Moto G4 Shot

 

[astroNikon]

Wish you have much more information.
The image does not have the EXIF information so much is hard to discern.

Many newer photographers believe they are doing everything correct and understand everything. As you move up the ladder on cameras details really make a difference as sensor size (and all the electronics) can make large variances in how one has to learn all the details of actually learning how to use it.. A bridge camera is designed to handle the load for the user. A Dslr really starts requiring the user to learn more about everything, such as:
Focus Areas,
Focus Modes .. these 2 items allow the camera to properly focus on a subject. Many just use whatever it is on the camera and things get out of focus.

Shutter Speed - many simply do not have a high enough shutter speed to stop any form of action. Someone walking is actually action and slow shutter speeds of 1/125 and lower will not suffice.

Aperture - larger sensor cameras the aperture really becomes apparent and can cause issues

ISO - using ISO to increase shutter speed.

Metering Modes - learning proper metering modes for the situation.

Many lower end cameras also process the image. For instance a bridge camera may use a "Vivid" color processing mode, or one of many others. In you DSLR it's probably set to "Portrait" which isn't going to be as vibrant as Vivid and different from the Panasonic which could be "Standard". This is assuming you are saving everything in JPEG. If you do RAW then you have to process it to make it the way you want it.

Knowing when to use VR and not when to use it .... so much to learn.
And so many questions as to what specifically you are seeing that you want to improve upon.

 

[stevenlanephotos]

Thanks for your reply. I am familiar with most of what you mention - and have tried variances of them. Equally I have tried small and large apertures. In this instance I used an f8 as I was looking for a relatively small depth of field. But even with an f22 I would have got that same somewhat unsharp flat look. I have seen this with quite a few other photographers using the same camera. I attach a file with the photo data.

 

[Designer]

I'm not seeing much of a difference between the two shots.

 

[jcdeboever]

Welcome.

The cell phone may appear a little better because more things are in focus and it juices the color somewhat. Hard to really compare as I am not sure how much you understand about the art of photography and your understanding of the hardware (your first post).

For color cast, use the best described white balance setting for the scene your shooting, this will help a great deal. For the shot you took, you probably had it on auto white balance but the better choice would have been the cloudy setting. You should also have a setting (standard profile) where you can bump the color and sharpness a tad. IF I recall correctly I had my Nikon set to two clicks below the highest setting on sharpness and bumped the color about +1 or 2.

As far as adding dimension to the image (not flat) in camera, you need to understand how to control your depth of field. I would study that. It is about controlling the camera to produce the image the way you want. You don't mention what mode you shot this in. If you shot it in auto than you let the camera decide everything and cameras are stupid and often very wrong. Cell phone cameras average the stupid better by design. Bridge cameras do a pretty good job of stupid as well. What you have is a camera that is capable of controlling every aspect of your image and it assumes your going to make the decisions for it.

Are there better digital cameras than the older, entry level DSLR's? Sure, but your post lacks information to properly understand where your at. Just because you've had a camera for 3 years doesn't mean squat because you may be using it wrong since you got it.

 

[stevenlanephotos]

The phone shot seems sharper with better colour. I would expect more from an DSLR with a better lens etc.

 

[astroNikon]

your 1/320 Shutter seems "okay" for the situation.

A small depth of field (DOF) will require a smaller aperture number, such as f/4.
Shallow DOF usually is around f/1.8-f/2.8 (which is dependent upon the lenses), and deeper DOF is such as f/11. Here's a quick example ==> Struggling with Focus

But also the ability of hand holding the camera steady may be very important. ==> Stability - making yourself a tripod versus using one

One thing to do is to initially use static objects to work on your photography.

For instance at home, put an object on a stool and work on making that photo as sharp as possible.
use a tripod versus hand holding at the same setting, and compare.

You can add more images at different positions to work on Aperture settings.
once you improve on this "fixed" setting then you can work on other things. Just learning to shoot birds or cars driving by it will help in shutter speeds.

When I'm out walking around on a hike the trees are always slightly moving from the wind or whatever and that can cause motion blur at lower shutter speeds. So take pictures of a tree moving and make it as sharp as possible, pushing the shutter speeds higher and higher until it's acceptable ... then go a bit faster to compare.

What were your Quality Settings? JPEG? (page 44 in your manual)

What is your (pg 76 in your manual) Picture Control ? This will affect your colors if you are shooting in JPEG.

 

[stevenlanephotos]

Thanks for all of the advice. I am really trying to find out if it is my "poor" technique or the shortcomings of an entry level DSLR.

I was using the Aperture setting. Using on Jpeg with the highest resolution, standard colour setting. I have tried changing the sharpness setting or changing the colour setting to vibrant. I was using auto white balance. I have also tried using a tripod. I am still dissatisfied with the results. I have an essential understanding of speed/aperture, depth of field, ISO,white balance etc.

Another photo which again is typical of the flat, unsharp look:

DSC_0001.JPG

Photo data attached

 

[astroNikon]

.

Thanks for all of the advice. I am really trying to find out if it is my "poor" technique or the shortcomings of an entry level DSLR.

I was using the Aperture setting. Using on Jpeg with the highest resolution, standard colour setting. I have tried changing the sharpness setting or changing the colour setting to vibrant. I was using auto white balance. I have also tried using a tripod. I am still dissatisfied with the results. I have an essential understanding of speed/aperture, depth of field, ISO,white balance etc.

Another photo which again is typical of the flat, unsharp look:

DSC_0001.JPG

Photo data attachedView attachment 140805

1 - What was being focused on (the focus point) ?
I cannot determine that from the photo
2 - was VR on or off ?

Also I know Tripods are mentioned. Tripods can be a curse if they are cheap. they can actually induce poor performance - the really shaky ones. "shaky" as to what the camera sensor sees, not the users' perception of shaky or not.

That is why going to a static situation and learning the "basics" I always mention. It helps to focus the technique, settings, etc.

 

[nerwin]

Actually, I like the colors and tones from the two D3200 images. They are not over the top, quite pleasing.

You have to remember that bridge cameras, point and shoot cameras and even smart phones process the images to make them "pop".

If you are shooting JPEG, then change the picture control settings to something like Vivid or Landscape and see if you like that. I'd HIGHLY recommend you shoot raw and use something like Adobe Lightroom or even Nikon's software to process the photos to your liking.

DSLRs are not point and shoot cameras.

If you want a camera that has beautiful SOOC vivid JPEGS, then maybe you should have gotten a Fuji X camera. But if you shoot raw, you'll get the same flat images.

Keep in mind though, a lot really depends on your environment. Hazy weather can cause photos to look flat, cloudy days often cause photos to look flat. There are a lot of factors involved and that's why I recommend shooting raw.

 

[stevenlanephotos]

.

Thanks for all of the advice. I am really trying to find out if it is my "poor" technique or the shortcomings of an entry level DSLR.

I was using the Aperture setting. Using on Jpeg with the highest resolution, standard colour setting. I have tried changing the sharpness setting or changing the colour setting to vibrant. I was using auto white balance. I have also tried using a tripod. I am still dissatisfied with the results. I have an essential understanding of speed/aperture, depth of field, ISO,white balance etc.

Another photo which again is typical of the flat, unsharp look:

DSC_0001.JPG

Photo data attachedView attachment 140805

1 - What was being focused on (the focus point) ?
I cannot determine that from the photo
2 - was VR on or off ?

Also I know Tripods are mentioned. Tripods can be a curse if they are cheap. they can actually induce poor performance - the really shaky ones. "shaky" as to what the camera sensor sees, not the users' perception of shaky or not.

That is why going to a static situation and learning the "basics" I always mention. It helps to focus the technique, settings, etc.

In this instance I focused on the nearby bicycles if I recall (it is a while) ago.
VR was on and has always been on - my simple understanding was that it reduces camera shake - does it do so at a cost?

Yes, my tripod is cheap - around 60 Euro only ( 75 USD)

I did think that I knew the basics, but I take on board your advice and will return to that . Thanks.

 

[stevenlanephotos]

Actually, I like the colors and tones from the two D3200 images. They are not over the top, quite pleasing.

You have to remember that bridge cameras, point and shoot cameras and even smart phones process the images to make them "pop".

If you are shooting JPEG, then change the picture control settings to something like Vivid or Landscape and see if you like that. I'd HIGHLY recommend you shoot raw and use something like Adobe Lightroom or even Nikon's software to process the photos to your liking.

DSLRs are not point and shoot cameras.

If you want a camera that has beautiful SOOC vivid JPEGS, then maybe you should have gotten a Fuji X camera. But if you shoot raw, you'll get the same flat images.

Keep in mind though, a lot really depends on your environment. Hazy weather can cause photos to look flat, cloudy days often cause photos to look flat. There are a lot of factors involved and that's why I recommend shooting raw.

Oh interesting - so you like the colours and tones - what do you think of the sharpness - it always looks a little blurred or softly focused to me?

Thanks for the tips on the settings - will try that.

And I will try shooting RAW - I had not ventured into that yet.

Thanks so much

 

[astroNikon]

Do you have any type of screw-on filter on the lenses ?

 

[nerwin]

Actually, I like the colors and tones from the two D3200 images. They are not over the top, quite pleasing.

You have to remember that bridge cameras, point and shoot cameras and even smart phones process the images to make them "pop".

If you are shooting JPEG, then change the picture control settings to something like Vivid or Landscape and see if you like that. I'd HIGHLY recommend you shoot raw and use something like Adobe Lightroom or even Nikon's software to process the photos to your liking.

DSLRs are not point and shoot cameras.

If you want a camera that has beautiful SOOC vivid JPEGS, then maybe you should have gotten a Fuji X camera. But if you shoot raw, you'll get the same flat images.

Keep in mind though, a lot really depends on your environment. Hazy weather can cause photos to look flat, cloudy days often cause photos to look flat. There are a lot of factors involved and that's why I recommend shooting raw.

Oh interesting - so you like the colours and tones - what do you think of the sharpness - it always looks a little blurred or softly focused to me?

Thanks for the tips on the settings - will try that.

And I will try shooting RAW - I had not ventured into that yet.

Thanks so much

So you may want to check the quality settings of your jpegs as they do look somewhat compressed. Make sure you are shooting Jpeg Fine/Large.

Even when shooting the Jpeg Fine, the compression ratio is 1:4 so its 4 times smaller file size than the orginal raw image captured by the sensor. Even so, the compression is quite minimal and you "shouldn't" see jpeg artifacts that much.

 

[Designer]

- what do you think of the sharpness - it always looks a little blurred or softly focused to me?

There is always a chance that your particular lens is not as sharp as most of them are, but you would need to do some controlled testing to determine that.

More than once we have discovered that the problem is simply that the owner has installed an inexpensive filter of some type on the front of the lens and always leaves it there. If you have anything screwed onto the front, take it off.