oskiper
TPF Noob!
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2016
- Messages
- 61
- Reaction score
- 24
- Location
- Buenos Aires, Argentina
- Can others edit my Photos
- Photos OK to edit
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That's a good one. I'm viewing it larger; the color temperatures of the various lighting. You are shooting raw right? The green tint on the skintones (the woman in the floral pattern dress - her hairline, forehead); there is some loss of color depth at higher iso it looks like. The light from the box is hot, fluorescent (maybe 5000-5500 kelvin and putting the green tint into that shadow), with a second spotlight on them as well, from in front? (cooler, 3000k). When you get your 6D and can work at higher iso, consider stacking 80a, 82b with an Fl-day filter on something like this, using daylight white balance on camera. The box light may seem too blue, but when you correct the white balance with a dropper tool in the raw conversion the image will look cleaner/clearer I think. The problem with the 80 filters is you loose a stop or two of light.
Did you do any editing to this? The contrast seems very high. Is it possible to share the unedited version?
Camera: Canon 1100D
Lens: 55.250 EFS
Aperture: AF 4,5
Expo: 1/60
ISO: 6400
Focal: 169mm
Camera: Canon 1100D
Lens: 55.250 EFS
Aperture: AF 4,5
Expo: 1/60
ISO: 6400
Focal: 169mm
It's stating the obvious really; 1/60 is close to as slow as you want to go, f/4.5 is restricting you too. Tamron made a good 135mm f/2.5 lens - manual focus. It's fairly cheap on the used market. You could maybe get this shot at 1600 ISO with such a lens. Better color. Was this shot made using evaluative metering? It's overexposed light on their faces, maybe due to the darkness in the rest of the frame. Do you use spot metering or centre-weighted metering?
If something's back lit, dial in +1 or +2 exposure compensation. If it's front lit you can try -1 or -2. That could make the difference here - one or two stops with the image quality right at useable limits.
I hope you shoot raw in any case, because in many situations you want to overexpose if you can by +2/3 of a stop (or more if possible). The histogram on camera is showing you the JPEG limits but the raw has extra that can be optimised in development. Search on the net for Bob DiNatale optimum exposure. It's a way of getting a better signal to noise ratio.
If something's back lit, dial in +1 or +2 exposure compensation. If it's front lit you can try -1 or -2. That could make the difference here - one or two stops with the image quality right at useable limits.
I hope you shoot raw in any case, because in many situations you want to overexpose if you can by +2/3 of a stop (or more if possible). The histogram on camera is showing you the JPEG limits but the raw has extra that can be optimised in development. Search on the net for Bob DiNatale optimum exposure. It's a way of getting a better signal to noise ratio.