Exposure compensation with studio flashes

[fmw]

Two things will make your life a whole lot easier in the studio. First buy and read this.

Second, add one of these to your studio kit.

I certainly agree with acquiring a good book on artificial lighting. Not so sure about the flash meter. They were important in the film days because we couldn't view the final image and to save on bracketing and, hence, film costs. These days experience and the ability to view the image immediately after the exposure is all that is required. Now I can see my image on a 25" computer monitor and then adjust as necessary. I haven't used a flash meter since I moved to digital. The money would be better spent on a lens or part of a lens.

 

[table1349]

I still use a meter in the studio for two reasons. First figuring complicated ratios with multiple lights. Secondly I detest wasting my subjects time chimping to get the right exposure. As for ratios not a big problem with two lights. As for chimping probably a big problem due to lack of experience. A meter can not only speed things up cut aid in learning light.

 

[tirediron]

I still use a meter in the studio for two reasons. First figuring complicated ratios with multiple lights. Secondly I detest wasting my subjects time chimping to get the right exposure. As for ratios not a big problem with two lights. As for chimping probably a big problem due to lack of experience. A meter can not only speed things up cut aid in learning light.

Agree with this, 100%. When clients come in, they don't need to sit there and cool their heels while I figure out my lighting. I can see where you could get away with it in product work, but even still, it's nice to know you're right.

 

[smoke665]

You can also reduce the light by increasing the distance from the subject but you will also harden the light quality at the same time.

I'm still learning when it comes to lighting, so I apologize if this is dumb question. I think I understand why distance creates either softer or harder light, but does it really apply when multiple lights are used on opposite sides of the subject as long as the angle is far enough apart to fill the shadows cast by the other?

 

[tirediron]

You can also reduce the light by increasing the distance from the subject but you will also harden the light quality at the same time.

I'm still learning when it comes to lighting, so I apologize if this is dumb question. I think I understand why distance creates either softer or harder light, but does it really apply when multiple lights are used on opposite sides of the subject as long as the angle is far enough apart to fill the shadows cast by the other?

Yes, 'though to a lesser degree. Generally speaking, unless you're shooting passport or driver's license photos you're not likely two use the "two lights, equal power 45 off-axis lighting scheme" (Well, maybe if you're going high-key, but that's a whole different game). What you will notice as you pull the lights back is an increase in specularity, so in essence, the highlights will get higher.

 

[gsgary]

Ok, thanks to both of you, i got it. I'll go to sleep a little less stupid tonight

But there is one thing still bothering me, i don't want to use a smaller aperture, i want to keep the background blurry or even a part of the model!?
Next session i'll try on manual, keeping the iso 100, the shutter speed 1/200 (it's the flash sync speed), and adjusting the exposure compensation while keeping the aparture large. I won't keep stupidly on this settings, i'll experiment, but i think what i could understand from you too, this might be the best thing to start with. Correct me if i'm wrong.

With studio flash you should only be using manual exposure

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

 

[fmw]

You can also reduce the light by increasing the distance from the subject but you will also harden the light quality at the same time.

I'm still learning when it comes to lighting, so I apologize if this is dumb question. I think I understand why distance creates either softer or harder light, but does it really apply when multiple lights are used on opposite sides of the subject as long as the angle is far enough apart to fill the shadows cast by the other?

Sure it does. The difference is that your fill light is or should be less powerful than the main light. To get softer light you use a large source and place it close. Since your lights are already at minimum power you will have to move your fill light further from the subject or use some other method for lessening its luminance.

 

[fmw]

You can also reduce the light by increasing the distance from the subject but you will also harden the light quality at the same time.

I'm still learning when it comes to lighting, so I apologize if this is dumb question. I think I understand why distance creates either softer or harder light, but does it really apply when multiple lights are used on opposite sides of the subject as long as the angle is far enough apart to fill the shadows cast by the other?

Yes, 'though to a lesser degree. Generally speaking, unless you're shooting passport or driver's license photos you're not likely two use the "two lights, equal power 45 off-axis lighting scheme" (Well, maybe if you're going high-key, but that's a whole different game). What you will notice as you pull the lights back is an increase in specularity, so in essence, the highlights will get higher.

The behavior of light is the same regardless of the lighting scheme. Larger and closer means softer for all the lights.

 

[tirediron]

...The behavior of light is the same regardless of the lighting scheme. Larger and closer means softer for all the lights.

Agree 100%; poor wording on my part. What I meant to say was when using two lights in a 50-50 ratio, then the effect may not be as immediately apparent because the two lights will act (to some degree) as a much larger light source.

 

[fmw]

...The behavior of light is the same regardless of the lighting scheme. Larger and closer means softer for all the lights.

Agree 100%; poor wording on my part. What I meant to say was when using two lights in a 50-50 ratio, then the effect may not be as immediately apparent because the two lights will act (to some degree) as a much larger light source.

I misunderstood. I light my light tent with two opposing monolights at equal luminance. The tent, of course, makes very soft light and too soft for some applications. I am not after beauty with those shots. I just want to give the viewer an accurate idea of the product's appearance. Catalog photography. I suppose you could do a portrait with a light tent but you would lose all the modeling.

 

[Bebulamar]

Put the camera on M. Set the ISO at 100 or whatever the lowest setting as you have plenty of light so you want the low ISO to get the lowest noise. Set the shutter speed to 1/200 as it doesn't affect the exposure if the ambient light in your studio is low. Go ahead and use f/1.8 as you like. Set the flash power at their lowest setting. The EC doesn't do anything. If the pictures are too dark increase the flash power. If the pictures are still too light I want to hear from you.