Getting sharp focus in manual modes?

SquarePeg

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Need some direction please. When shooting in M, A, S modes, using the auto focus, I can't seem to get any of my shots sharply focused. If I use an auto setting, the shots are nice and sharp. I thought it might be the Tamron lens I was using (no VR)' so I switched it up and today i used my Nikon 55-200 that came with my D60. But I got similar results. Auto mode produced sharply focused pics. I immediately switched to A priority mode (5.6) and same shot is fuzzy when I zoom in on the view screen. I'm new to using any of the manual settings and would appreciate any advice/input.

What am i doing wrong? Should I be using manual focus when in manual mode? I struggle with focusing manually because I cant wear my reading glasses when I'm moving around... I wasn't using a tripod so I stuck to fast shutter speeds.

TIA
 
Are you sure it's out of focus, and not motion blur or camera shake?

Post an example of one of the bad ones.
 
Thanks for your reply. I will post an example as soon as I get home. On my iPad right now and can't access. If it was motion blur why would it only be on the non auto shots? Does auto mode eliminate that? Sorry for my ignorance on this.
 
It could just be that the auto mode was selecting more appropriate settings for the scene (if that's what the problem actually is).

Auto mode is also likely using a higher ISO than the other modes too - so that would allow it to use a smaller aperture and a shorter shutter speed.
 
Looked at the specs for two of the auto vs manual shots. Both have ISO 200 but Apertures and shutter speeds were diff. Auto used f/8 and 1/400 where A mode i had used f18 and it selected 1/60. So it is probably camera shake? I thought I had shot that at f11... At what shutter speed is a tripod absolutely needed? I'll post the examples shortly.
 
i had used f18 and it selected 1/60. So it is probably camera shake? I thought I had shot that at f11... At what shutter speed is a tripod absolutely needed? I'll post the examples shortly.

You have no need to shoot at f18 when your shutter speed is so slow. 1/60th is not generally acceptable for handheld. I shoot a 55-200vr daily and shoot at 800iso when cloudy or lower light and keep the shutter above 1/125th. Tho careful technique can shoot slower.


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Comes down to practice and technique. Stance,Breathing and squeezing the shutter instead of jabbing are issues for many new to photography.
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Thanks for the info. I will have to work on my aperture selections. Seems like a lot of my issues start there. I'm saving for the Nikon 18-200 VR but for now working with the lenses that came with my camera plus some equip a relative handed off to me (the Tamron non VR, a very old tripod and a set of relatively unused but low end filters).
 
I'm betting when you flip it to auto it's cranking your ISO to compensate... and as Josh mentioned you probably have camera shake. Josh nailed it. 10 points. :)
 
Looked at the specs for two of the auto vs manual shots. Both have ISO 200 but Apertures and shutter speeds were diff. Auto used f/8 and 1/400 where A mode i had used f18 and it selected 1/60. So it is probably camera shake? I thought I had shot that at f11... At what shutter speed is a tripod absolutely needed? I'll post the examples shortly.

This question doesn't really have a "right" answer. A lot depends on technique, and the camera/lens combo. For example, I find that I can hand hold a rangefinder at much longer shutter speeds than I can hand hold an SLR. The general rule of thumb is twice the focal length though - that is, it you're using a 50mm lens, you want to keep your shutter speed above 1/100. Note that this is just a rule of thumb. Good technique will let you hand hold at much longer shutter speeds.

You didn't mention the focal length, but comparing a shot at 1/400 to a shot at 1/60, I wouldn't be surprised at all if the 1/60 shot had a small amount of camera shake.

Motion blur can become an issue if the subject is moving.

Motion blur = moving subject
Camera shake = moving camera
 
Looked at the specs for two of the auto vs manual shots. Both have ISO 200 but Apertures and shutter speeds were diff. Auto used f/8 and 1/400 where A mode i had used f18 and it selected 1/60. So it is probably camera shake? I thought I had shot that at f11... At what shutter speed is a tripod absolutely needed? I'll post the examples shortly.

consider also that over f/11 (+/-) resolution decreases due to diffraction, i.e., image quality get worse.
 
Looked at the specs for two of the auto vs manual shots. Both have ISO 200 but Apertures and shutter speeds were diff. Auto used f/8 and 1/400 where A mode i had used f18 and it selected 1/60. So it is probably camera shake? I thought I had shot that at f11... At what shutter speed is a tripod absolutely needed? I'll post the examples shortly.

consider also that over f/11 (+/-) resolution decreases due to diffraction, i.e., image quality get worse.

This is also true, though the specific aperture that happens at will vary from lens to lens. You may ask "why ever use small apertures if that is the case?", well - sometimes the small loss in quality is worth the DOF gained. Everything is a tradeoff - nothing is free in photography, lol.
 
You need to spend a little time at DOFMASTER.com to see how the aperture, focal length and subject distance effect DOF.

f18? - rarely if ever
 

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