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In general with action you will get the shot in those 3 as you get better and time your shots well. A really long buffer can work for certain things, but in general you want to time your shots so that they are just at the right moment. It makes for much less waste and dross to toss out when editing and also means that you get better at really seeing the moment to shoot not just blind shooting with a machine gun.
A few more thoughts;
1) I shoot most of my indoor with manual mode as well. If the arena is generally evenly lit or the differences are minor then I don't need the camera resampling the exposure all the time. I just need one reading and a test shot or two to make sure and then I know I can shoot and trust it to work. I Always keep an eye on the meter needle through the day of course as things will change.
The key is that by using manual mode if you get a white subject suddenly dominate the metering area it won't change your exposure - same for a majority dark subject; it keeps it constant and on that good exposure.
2) RAW gives you more room to work with and whilst it can slow you down early on it will really improve the potential of your shots when editing. Note that good use of software such as Lightroom can also make a big difference to your processing speed. (remember Lightroom and Photoshop are now on monthly contracts for under around £/$10 so well worth it.
3) As said before learn hot to with with stronger noise levels. I consider 1/500sec the slowest for action in general if you want a sharp shot and even then 1/500 can blur edge areas of moving elements. 1/620sec is generally safer.
4) f2.8 and f2 are workable depth of field wise; any larger in aperture (smaller in f number)renders a very thin depth of field where its very easy to miss-focus or have the focus right but the subject angle such that not all you want/need in focus is in focus as its not all in the same plane relactive to the camera (remembering that depth of field is like a sheet of paper parallel to the front of the lens).
A few more thoughts;
1) I shoot most of my indoor with manual mode as well. If the arena is generally evenly lit or the differences are minor then I don't need the camera resampling the exposure all the time. I just need one reading and a test shot or two to make sure and then I know I can shoot and trust it to work. I Always keep an eye on the meter needle through the day of course as things will change.
The key is that by using manual mode if you get a white subject suddenly dominate the metering area it won't change your exposure - same for a majority dark subject; it keeps it constant and on that good exposure.
2) RAW gives you more room to work with and whilst it can slow you down early on it will really improve the potential of your shots when editing. Note that good use of software such as Lightroom can also make a big difference to your processing speed. (remember Lightroom and Photoshop are now on monthly contracts for under around £/$10 so well worth it.
3) As said before learn hot to with with stronger noise levels. I consider 1/500sec the slowest for action in general if you want a sharp shot and even then 1/500 can blur edge areas of moving elements. 1/620sec is generally safer.
4) f2.8 and f2 are workable depth of field wise; any larger in aperture (smaller in f number)renders a very thin depth of field where its very easy to miss-focus or have the focus right but the subject angle such that not all you want/need in focus is in focus as its not all in the same plane relactive to the camera (remembering that depth of field is like a sheet of paper parallel to the front of the lens).