Help in how to compare lenses

MisplacedAngler

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When you buy a camera there is tons of specs and features to compare. In looking for lenses lately, what exactly is it you compare other than price and focal distance? It doesn't seem that there is usually much more than that listed for spec's but I'm supposed to spend anywhere from 1/2 to more than what my camera costs? Seems kinda weird. I want to get something that is going to give me good, clear, colorful landscape photos. Is there not some sort of technical specifications that quantify how a lens performs in these areas?
 
Your best bet is going to be to decide what focal length(s) you want; typically for landscape work shorter lengths are used, then determine what your budget is, and then read the reviews of the lenses that fit those two criteria to determine which one you want. There's a lot more than just optical quality to consider; build quality and maximum aperture are important factors as well.
 
..what exactly is it you compare other than price and focal distance?...
You compare the lens MTF curves, if the lenses have variable or constant apertures, number and shape of aperture blades, focus mode switch or no, for crop sensor bodies or full frame, minumum focus distance, etc..

You compare how many lens elements there are, and in how many groups the lens elements are arranged.

You compare if the lens focuses internally, or not. When you focus a lens that does not focus internally the front lens element rotates as you focus. If you have a CPL filter mounted, focusing changes the polarization angle and it will need to be readjusted everytime focus changes.

You compare what types of aberration correcting glass, if any, is in a lens.

If it's a zoom lens, does the lens get longer/shorter when you zoom it? What size filter do they use, Do they come with a hood, if so, a bayonette mount hood or a screw on, a round hood, or a petal hood?

Is a zoom lens a parfocus lens, meaning if you zoom to the longest focal length and then focus, as you zoom the focal length to a smaller zoom, the lens stays focused at the same focal point.

There are a lot of things to consider when selecting a lens. Go to http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Camera-Lenses/1986/AF-Zoom-NIKKOR-80-200mm-f%252F2.8D-ED.html#tab-ProductDetail.ProductTabs.Overview and click on each tab.
 
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..what exactly is it you compare other than price and focal distance?...
You compare the lens MTF curves, if the lenses have variable or constant apertures, number and shape of aperture blades, focus mode switch or no, for crop sensor bodies or full frame, minumum focus distance, etc..

You compare how many lens elements there are, and in how many groups the lens elements are arranged.

You compare if the lens focuses internally, or not. When you focus a lens that does not focus internally the front lens element rotates as you focus. If you have a CPL filter mounted, focusing changes the polarization angle and it will need to be readjusted everytime focus changes.

You compare what types of aberration correcting glass, if any, is in a lens.

If it's a zoom lens, does the lens get longer/shorter when you zoom it? What size filter do they use, Do they come with a hood, if so, a bayonette mount hood or a screw on, a round hood, or a petal hood?

Is a zoom lens a parfocus lens, meaning if you zoom to the longest focal length and then focus, as you zoom the focal length to a smaller zoom, the lens stays focused at the same focal point.

There are a lot of things to consider when selecting a lens. Go to AF Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm f/2.8D ED from Nikon and click on each tab.

Ok. After much googling I found a lot about the information you speak of before I got back to your post. However, I've never even heard of some this stuff. Looks like I've got more googling to do. Thanks for the info and I might be back if google doesn't answer my questions (google does knows everything right?)
 
Google will give you an answer. It may not be the right answer, tho...
 
Here is another tool to compare lenses: FM Reviews - Main Index

I wouldn't stake my entire decision on it, but the experience of others is always good to have.
 
As for lens quality: aperture range, and brand are what you should be comparing.

Aperture range is how much sensitive the lens is to light: smaller numbers are better (more sensitive). This can have a huge effect on lens value. For example: a 200mm f5.6 lens may cost only $200, whereas a 200mm f2 lens will cost $5000! It can be assumed that lenses with lower aperture numbers are also made of higher quality/more dense glass; and they are always much heavier then the cheaper models.

1st party brands (Nikon, Canon, Sony) will cost more, and typically offer better reliability and build quality. Most will offer marginally better image quality compared to a cheaper 3rd party lens of the same class.

The only 3rd party brands you should ever consider are Tamron, Sigma--other brand names are likely cheap chinese knockoffs. Tokina, although chinese, does make a few good lenses, but should be avoided for the most part.
 
A note on the cost: it's better to invest in lenses rather than camera bodies. Camera bodies (especially digital) become obsolete in a matter of a couple of years, but good glass will last for decades. In fact, there are many lenses that Nikon etc. still make that they were making decades ago. Because they're good. Lenses also hold their value well, while digital cameras do not. Come to terms with spending more on the lens than the camera itself; it's part of the game, if you play it right.
 

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