Help needed for taking macro/close up with Polaroid iX6038 Bridge camera

Andrew Penniall

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Hi I take macro/closeup. My camera only has f6.5 and f3.2 on Spirits priority. I have a macro button. I also have manual, apeture priority, shutter priority, program, auto modes, scene, video, continue shooting.
Shutter can go 8.0, 4.0, 2.0, 1.0, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000.
I mostly use program for macro/closeup, but on shutterstock I get picture rejections - Noise/artifacts/film grain and mostly focus. I try to focus the best I can and steady the camera. I want to use manual settings. My photos are anything from flowers close up to issuing a table to steady the camera an photographing small objects.
I need advice please, can anyone help.
Thanks.
 
Is this the same camera phone that you mention in your other thread? If so then you might find you're rather limited in practical terms. For example the aperture values are likely limited by the lens setup, but also by the fact the sensor is so tiny that aperture variation might not show much difference in depth of field in a practical sense.


Your shutterstock rejections are likely a result of multiple factors, however most stock companies want very very good quality photos beyond what most phones achieve (even today with very solid good quality phone cameras). Without showing us examples of your photos though we can't guess at the reasons and errors and it could be the result of several factors combined.

In addition note that most people focus for macro using manual focusing, setting the focus point where they want manually and then moving the camera closer/further away to move the focus through the scene and then take the photo at the right moment. If its a camera then anti-shake might or might not be helping (most anti-shake only counters up/down left/right motion and not back/forwrad which comes into play for macro). In addition if your holding it at arms length away from your body your hand and arm will shake more so than if its held closer to your body and your centre of gravity, though phones are quite light so good light should let you get the shutter speed fast enough. Again without examples its hard to guess at what the error(s) might be.
 
Better lighting on the subject and use a tripod.
Set camera at ISO 100 and f/11.
With camera on tripod, use the self timer feature to trip the shutter, use either the 2 second or 5 second delay option.
 
With respect to the OP, Shutterstock is a go to stopping point for people doing various work involving visuals. So the images are designed to be used for just what they advertise. Stock images.

Because of that, the camera your using is not really designed for that kind of work.

Not to say its not capable for some things, nor to say that it cant be capable of shooting good images.
But the images the Polaroid produces is not the highest quality.

The optical performance of the camera itself is not on the high end.

I may be mistaken on this, but I seem to remember that the macro setting is a form of digital zoom in macro. So the noise your getting is a result of digital zooming and not an aspect of glass.

In all honesty and with respect to what your trying to achieve, you may need to get a higher end camera for the work your doing.
 
Tripod.

Raynox external close-up lens if possible.

Supplemental lighting gear: reflector or diffusion panel, or maybe both.

Practice.

Education.
 
Hi this is a Polaroid iX6038 bridge camera and only has iso 1/60 or 1/125 and can only be used with f3.5 or f6.5 as they are the only two f settings on the camera.
I have a light box, But its only just arrived in post.
Thanks
 
According to the link you posted, it has apertures from f3.5 to f36 and ISO from 100 to 3200.

I agree with Dave442. ISO 100, well lit subject, f11, self timer to avoid shake.

Having said all that, I also agree with Soocom1 that I wouldn't be using that camera for that application.
 
I don't know what spirits priority means, but if you're getting digital noise that would seem the camera settings may not be set to get a proper exposure and that the camera isn't getting enough light. It's a matter of adjusting ISO and aperture and shutter speed, and using the meter to determine settings, for the camera to get the needed amount of light.

For focus issues I'd try a midrange rather than large aperture so you can get more depth of field (to give you more area that will be in focus), so try the f6.5 rather than f3.2. Try setting the shutter speed to at least 1/60 or 1/125 or faster, depends on what you can do hand held. Do some test shots.

I'm not sure of what may be accepted on stock sites but payment seems low and I can't see buying a more expensive camera for that. Regardless of what camera you use it's a matter of learning how to use it and practicing to get good pictures, and a nice sharp lens is a help. This camera is probably not intended for producing professional quality results.
 

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