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HOW DID I DO? I think my focus is better.......(nakey baby pics..=)

e.rose said:
You did indeed Atonement. You missed a couple of spots as well :lol:
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You're funny e.rose!! It's Amoment not Atonement! LOL!! ;)

Hey! Hey, do you know who I am?!

I made ENTIRELY too much money last quarter to be bothered with trivial things like getting people's NAMES right?!

I have PEOPLE for that!

:biglaugh:

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::epic fail::

Sorry... AMOMENT​. :lmao:
 
Speedlight is a great idea. To expand on OCF, on camera flash is what you've used--the pop up flash on the camera. It produces inferior photos (bad shadows, flat lighting, etc.) compared to OCF. OCF, as I understand it, is either flash from a light source that is not attached to your camera's hot shoe, or flash from a unit connected to the camera's hot shoe but bounced off of something like a wall or the ceiling. It produces much better and different results. I am able to use my speedlight off camera wirelessly through my camera's custom settings. When set up properly, instead of the camera's pop up flash discharging when I press the shutter release, the speedlight instead goes off. This way, I can place the speedlight somewhere else to get better lighting angles, etc.
 
THANKS! VTF, that tutorial was soooo helpful!! I am going to bookmark him!
 
I just stumbled across this and wanted to throw out there that the photos here are absolutely not protected...even if you've said no to having others edit your pics, they can still right click your pics and save them.

Also, very cute baby =)
 
And after you meter off something (in manual) you let go of the shutter, then focus on your subject the way you normally would. If you keep the shutter pressed halfway down after metering then point it at the subject and take the picture - it won't be in focus.

Yeah, you can use the method she is talking about if you're shooting something with a wide DOF and the spot you are metering off is basically the same focal length as what you want in focus. This technique is mostly a landscape photographer's technique, because DOF is so deep, and the focus points are so far away and thus relatively similar, that you don't care where exactly the focal point is, because most of the picture is in focus. But like Megan said, it works pretty horribly for portraits, where your DOF is shallow and nailing the focus on the eyes is the first thing that matters when it comes to nailing the picture.

Like others have said, your focus is great, but you have to get an external flash for portraits and a diffuser. Unless you absolutely have to, you should never let that flash pop up off the top of the camera and you should try to soften the flash as much as possible.

edit: also just realized this is like a month old, lol.
 
fjrabon said:
Yeah, you can use the method she is talking about if you're shooting something with a wide DOF and the spot you are metering off is basically the same focal length as what you want in focus. This technique is mostly a landscape photographer's technique, because DOF is so deep, and the focus points are so far away and thus relatively similar, that you don't care where exactly the focal point is, because most of the picture is in focus. But like Megan said, it works pretty horribly for portraits, where your DOF is shallow and nailing the focus on the eyes is the first thing that matters when it comes to nailing the picture.

Like others have said, your focus is great, but you have to get an external flash for portraits and a diffuser. Unless you absolutely have to, you should never let that flash pop up off the top of the camera and you should try to soften the flash as much as possible.

edit: also just realized this is like a month old, lol.

Metering off something isn't just for landscape photography. Metering off something and recomposing the shot are 2 different things. In a portrait you could meter off the grass if you wanted too - adjust the settings in manual mode then release the shutter and then focus on the eyes.

I never said it works horribly for portraits - I said if you never release the shutter, after adjusting settings, then point it at your subject it will be horribly out of focus. I use spot metering all the time in portraits with a shallow DOF. If you are using aperture or shutter priority then what I am talking about won't work because the camera will readjust settings depending where you point the camera at. Even in landscape photography - if you meter off the sky - in manual - you should still release the shutter and focus on your scene.
 
fjrabon said:
Yeah, you can use the method she is talking about if you're shooting something with a wide DOF and the spot you are metering off is basically the same focal length as what you want in focus. This technique is mostly a landscape photographer's technique, because DOF is so deep, and the focus points are so far away and thus relatively similar, that you don't care where exactly the focal point is, because most of the picture is in focus. But like Megan said, it works pretty horribly for portraits, where your DOF is shallow and nailing the focus on the eyes is the first thing that matters when it comes to nailing the picture.

Like others have said, your focus is great, but you have to get an external flash for portraits and a diffuser. Unless you absolutely have to, you should never let that flash pop up off the top of the camera and you should try to soften the flash as much as possible.

edit: also just realized this is like a month old, lol.

Metering off something isn't just for landscape photography. Metering off something and recomposing the shot are 2 different things. In a portrait you could meter off the grass if you wanted too - adjust the settings in manual mode then release the shutter and then focus on the eyes.

I never said it works horribly for portraits - I said if you never release the shutter, after adjusting settings, then point it at your subject it will be horribly out of focus. I use spot metering all the time in portraits with a shallow DOF. If you are using aperture or shutter priority then what I am talking about won't work because the camera will readjust settings depending where you point the camera at. Even in landscape photography - if you meter off the sky - in manual - you should still release the shutter and focus on your scene.

Maybe I wasn't clear, but I was specifically talking about the "hold the shutter half way down in auto focus with spot metering" technique that the OP mentioned. I wasn't just talking about spot metering.
 
fjrabon said:
Maybe I wasn't clear, but I was specifically talking about the "hold the shutter half way down in auto focus with spot metering" technique that the OP mentioned. I wasn't just talking about spot metering.

Now I'm confused. She was talking about metering off something - but she was doing it wrong. So I'm not sure what you mean by "hold the shutter half way down in auto focus with spot metering". She thought that when you metered off something you kept the shutter pressed halfway and then focused on subject after adjusting settings in manual mode - which is wrong because the photo would not be in focus.
 
Now I'm confused. She was talking about metering off something - but she was doing it wrong. So I'm not sure what you mean by "hold the shutter half way down in auto focus with spot metering". She thought that when you metered off something you kept the shutter pressed halfway and then focused on subject after adjusting settings in manual mode - which is wrong because the photo would not be in focus.

Maybe I misunderstood her, but I thought she was talking about the technique where for landscape photography with auto focus on, you can a lot of times get away with picking a spot you want to meter the exposure for, that is within the focal range, holding the shutter button half way down at that spot and then moving your camera back to how you wanted it composed. It works pretty quickly and pretty well if you're doing landscapes of varying distances and you don't want to deal with manual mode, which is normally necessary for spot metering. It's a technique I've seen espoused in several books on landscape photography. It works especially well on a tripod (lol), you can just pan over to the point you want to meter for, hit the shutter button half way, hold it, then pan back to your composition, then wait a second to let the camera completely stabilize, then fully push down the trigger. I thought that was what she was talking about.
 
That is called recomposing the shot. All your doing is locking focus on something and recomposing the shot unless you are locking your exposure which it doesn't sound like it. So whatever you point your camera at to "meter" off of is just locking focus. When you move the camera the camera is going to readjust its settings so your aren't metering off anything.

Take for example a blue sky. If you want that sky blue you would meter off it. This has to be in manual - in any other settings you'd have to use exposure lock. You would point the camera at the sky an press shutter halfway - adjust settings - then let go of the shutter button and move your camera to focus on whatever it is. You have an ae-l/af-l button on the back of the camera which can be set to lock exposure. So if you aren't using that button all you are doing is focusing on something and then recomposing the shot.
 
fjrabon said:
Maybe I misunderstood her, but I thought she was talking about the technique where for landscape photography with auto focus on, you can a lot of times get away with picking a spot you want to meter the exposure for, that is within the focal range, holding the shutter button half way down at that spot and then moving your camera back to how you wanted it composed. It works pretty quickly and pretty well if you're doing landscapes of varying distances and you don't want to deal with manual mode, which is normally necessary for spot metering. It's a technique I've seen espoused in several books on landscape photography. It works especially well on a tripod (lol), you can just pan over to the point you want to meter for, hit the shutter button half way, hold it, then pan back to your composition, then wait a second to let the camera completely stabilize, then fully push down the trigger. I thought that was what she was talking about.

What book said to do that? If you are in aperture priority - even with shutter button pressed halfway - when you move the camera to a different position - the shutter speed will change so you aren't spot metering off that spot.
 

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