I am a pro and the first thing to do is get the camera on a tripod, easy shooting a landscape. In studio for portraits I even use a rolling camera stand to ensure tack sharp images. And use a cable release, remote trigger or the camera timer and if you really want to be finicky, use mirror lock up to remove any vibration introduced by the mirror slap. Next, stop down to smaller aperture. Not the smallest because that can introduce lack of sharpness. A lens is typically sharpest 2 to 3 stops from wide open. f/11 or 16 with a lens going to 22 will give max depth of field and excellent sharpness with most lenses. With subjects that move, be sure to have enough shutter speed so there isn't blur from subject movement. Don't have a cheap filter screwed onto the lens. In post, judicious use of clarity and sharpening. I really like Nik's sharpening program. It was free, not sure if it still is now that DxO bought it and is charging $50. And Serge is right, from the same lens you get a sharper image across the whole frame, particularly near the edges. Usually the edges of the frame are the areas that are the least sharp. Want one sharp to the edges, expect to pay more than a kit lens. When you use a ff lens on a crop sensor, you cut off what would be the outer edges on a ff image, hence you are using the best part of the lens.