Two fast questions:
- Do you think that you will ever consider using shutter speeds above 1/250th on a studio strobe or any non-Nikon light source battery or 110-220v?
- Do you think you will use/need Pocket Wizards for your triggers?
If yes, you may want to consider making that SB-600 into a SB-800 or SB-900... because of the ability to take shots using anything like a Vivitar 285 or a Alien Bee or an Elinchrom or Profoto head or even your other SB-600s (from a distance of hundreds of feet) and syncing to your D700 at any speed between 1/60th to 1/8000th of a second becomes a reality.
I have Profoto 600R compacts at my disposal pretty much whenever I want, and I would never want to take those on location unless I
really needed the power.I would say 95% of the time i'm shooting with my speedlights, Nikon's CLS system and my SB-600's work
great. PW transmitters/recievers/trancievers are not worth almost $900 to outfit a body and 3 flashes to me when I could buy 4 more SB-600's and run off my pop up flash, no way.
So the answer to If I would want to use high FP outside the Nikon system or would essentially want to spend hundreds of dollars on tools I don't need, probably not. Battery packs aren't anywhere near as portable, and I can't adjust vivitars from the camera position.
I'd not really call any 50mm a dynamite combo for full body shots due to the distortion that a short lens does, A 24-70 at 70mm is a nice improvement but even better... that 70-200 at 150-200mm and some extra distance (not that great a distance thanks to the FX sensor)... and now we are talking "dyn-o-mite" results.
For the most part, agreed. I already have an 80-200, which is what I use for the real formal head-and shoulders stuff, but for availible light, f/2.8 often still isn't fast enough, and regardless of the camera, why shoot at ISO 3200 when you can shoot at ISO 800, and get smoother bokeh at the same time. For a 50mm, a full body, head to toe, you're so far back anyway, it would look
fine, you wouldn't notice distortion like you would if you were trying to do a head and shoulders shot. If it's a full body, or even a waist level-up shot just looking at the photo without another point of reference, say from a 200mm lens, it would look fine. 50mm is the same perspective (roughly) as the human eye.
the 50mm is also small, fast, sharp, and light. the 85mm f/1.4, although might make more sense, for strictly portraits, is neither small, light, or subtle, not to mention costs over $1000.
It would be huge, I think... at least something around the size/weight of the 50mm F/1.4G if it was in metal and not plastic. Besides, the Nikkor 14-24 F/2.8 likely would be so close as to make no IQ difference, and with a D700, you are no further away from matching the light sensitivity than cranking up the ISO a stop or 2. This is one of the main reasons I so enjoy my D700... the latitude it gives me to really control my lighting in so many different ways.
I think it would be about the size of Canon's 24mm f/1.4L. A 24mm f/1.4 would have shallower DOF, sharper at f/2.8 compared to the 14-24, less distortion, it would be a smaller lens, so more discreet, and in availible light, again what I said earlier, why shoot at something like ISO12800 when you can shoot at ISO 3200? or instead of 1600, 400? with brighter lenses, AF works more reliably and accurately in low light. if you're shooting at 400, there is virtually no noise
at all on the D3/700, 1600 is where it starts looking crispy.
These are all valid questions jerry, and I understand where you're coming from with them, but for my purposes, the 50mm and SB-600 would make more sense with limited funds and I would get more use out of them.