Ilford Delta 3200

Musa

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Good day! I'm looking for some advice regarding Ilford Delta 3200. I'm aspiring some nice night shots with high contrast. And I'd like to use a Ilford Delta 3200 in my Olympus RC 35, this one can be set up to max. ASA 800. So I was wondering about the settings I should go for? Should I keep them for the whole film to make processing (pulling) easier?
 
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Musa

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Thank you for your answer! I'm not sure if I get you right, so let's say my meter settings for 3200 ISO are 1/15 and f/8, how would you change them if the camera is set to ASA 800?
 

Dave Colangelo

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This has long been a problem with the early point and shoots that have no manual modes available. On one hand there are countless options in the way of decent 35mm SLR's that have a full manual mode that can be had used for great prices. But if you want to stick with your current camera pulling a stop or two would solve the issue. You can also push HP5 one stop to 800 ISO.

Since I sounds like you are walking black and white here there are also lots of other ways to get contrast. You can try some high contrast development processes or even a new developer. This may give you the results you are looking for with a different film stock.
 

webestang64

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Thank you for your answer! I'm not sure if I get you right, so let's say my meter settings for 3200 ISO are 1/15 and f/8, how would you change them if the camera is set to ASA 800?

If using a handheld meter, set it to 800 ISO to match the setting on the camera.
 
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Musa

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But if I follow the settings for 800 wouldn't that leave my film too overexposed? Or is it just that way and I have to work on that while processing?
 

Dave Colangelo

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@Musa you are correct you should set the hand held to 3200. I took another look at the camera and it looks like you do have manual controls (my apologies) on that camera so you can solve this with a hand held meter. The Gossen I linked above will fit in the hot shoe nicely, there are also various free phone apps out there that are quite accurate meters.
 

webestang64

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@Musa you are correct you should set the hand held to 3200. I took another look at the camera and it looks like you do have manual controls (my apologies) on that camera so you can solve this with a hand held meter. The Gossen I linked above will fit in the hot shoe nicely, there are also various free phone apps out there that are quite accurate meters.

I agree with this......also I would bracket your shots 1 stop each way. Say your meter says 1/30 at f8.....take that shot, then one at 1/60 and one at 1/15 at f8.
 
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Musa

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@webestang64 I will definitely go with bracketing, that's a good idea. @Dave Colangelo And unfortunately the light meter on the camera itself isn't working anymore so I normally use my other one, but which Gossen do you recommend?
 

Dave Colangelo

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I have the sixtomat which I quite like. The Digisix is the smaller option and will fit in a hot shoe but you will need to use the manual sliders to convert the EV to F-Stop and Shutter speed. The Sixtomat will read out in all parameters and gives you flash triggering out of the box. The other big player in the market is the Sekonic 308 a close friend of mine has it and really likes it. Its effectively identical to the Sixtomat both on features and price so you are really choosing brand. The main difference is the orientation of the element to the screen which will impact how you hold it but ultimately is not a big deal. You will be happy with either option.

There are loads of used meters out there that can be had for very cheap. Some are decent deals and some are junk but if you do your research you can get a great meter for $10. I advise if you go this route to check the meter against a known, good meter or digital camera to ensure it is working across the spectrum. Unfortunately some of the selenium elements have degraded over the years and no longer properly work. Most of the older meters have some way to calibrate them, usually a screw on the underside. These can often be used to compensate for bias if the meter falls out of 0 range but as far as I know they cant be used to compensate for a situation where the meter is no longer responding linearly across the board.

However, if you are getting serious about film and think its something you still stick with heres my advice in hindsight of my experience. Buy a cheaper meter for now (vintage used, more modern but second hand) and save up for a true spot meter, something like a sekonic 508 etc. Second hand they can be had for ~$300 and at some point will simply do things an incident/reflective meter wont do. For 35mm, forgiving BW stocks, typical reflected metering works just fine but if you go down the medium format road or even the 4x5 road you will want that spot capability.
 

Kiron Kid

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I am going to use my Oly RC to burn some T-Max 3200 this weekend. I will most likely burn my film at 1600. Let us know how your results come out.

Thanks
 

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