ISO

[ntz]

@jeffashman - using ISO should be based on know-your-camera basis .. I don't want to interfere with anybody else making input into this thread so everything I said is my personal opinion and my way of doing things ..

it depends on what you're shooting ... I recommend not using automatic ISO and if you do (while shooting sports or wildlife) I'd recommend to have set the upper limit to max acceptable ISO value based on current conditions and your knowledge of performance of your camera ..

for example with my APS-C Nikon (crop factor is 1.5, so the ISO performance is 1.5**2 lower than with crop factor 1.0 aka FX -- eg. now simplifying that but my performance with ISO 100 is eq~ to ISO 225 on full frame - 100 * 1.5**2) I have 99% of my photos < ISO 800 .. of course depends on what you're shooting .. for wildlife and sports in the daylight I use ISO 200-500 with my f/4 telephoto lens .. when I would be shooting in the really low light conditions like for example in club, I wouldn't want to have ISO higher than say 1600, it will will severely affect the photos ... as I said earlier, I tend to shoot 99% of time in A mode and I am changing my ISO manually to have maximum control over it ... Also I use an exposure correction instead of manual mode

Thank you! All of this is very helpful, and I am learning, so it is all good. So, which is better? Ceske Budejovice, or Pilsner Urquell? [emoji16] Zdravim! [emoji482] Or is there something better that I haven’t discovered yet? [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Jeff ...

there are myriads of boats and vessels on the lagune with the most prominent flagships that are indeed Pilsner Urquell and Budweiser Budvar .. Worth to note, that these two main flagships are usually fiercest antagonists in here, rivalry not only on the field of taprooms but also on the tongues and throats of drinkers ... Pilsner crowd says that B is too sweet and heavy and will make you a headache and Budweiser crowd says that Pilsner doesn't even taste like typical Czech beer because it's so over-manufactured and special.

Amongst smaller vessels, there are true gems as well as decks which you'd rather like to avoid. What is popular in here in past decade is the boom with mini-breweries which brew usually untypical kinds like IPA and ALE .. Also worth to note, that Bohemian breweries are much better and safe than most eastern Moravian and Silesian breweries ..

I wish you great golden light on your photography hikes !!

regards, ~dan

 

[smoke665]

What is a good max setting for auto-ISO?

You know after 4 pages I'm not really sure you got an answer to this. The truth is you are probably the only one that can answer this, because what constitutes an acceptable image is subjective. My K3II has a range of ISO 100-51200, the K1MII ISO 100-819200, the newly released K3III ISO 100-1600000. Can you actually shoot at these astronomical levels, of course you can, but is it "acceptable"? In theory I've heard that 50% of your maximum will give an "acceptable" image. In practice I've found my "no problem acceptance" level on the K3II & K1II to be ISO 6400. Above that I might shoot but I want manual control of all my settings, including those hidden in the sub menus.

So to answer your question, study your camera manual, understand what sub menu controls affect your image and how to use them. Finally take multiple test shots using those sub menus and various ISO levels, you'll have "your specific" answer.

 

[ntz]

What is a good max setting for auto-ISO?

You know after 4 pages I'm not really sure you got an answer to this. The truth is you are probably the only one that can answer this, because what constitutes an acceptable image is subjective. My K3II has a range of ISO 100-51200, the K1MII ISO 100-819200, the newly released K3III ISO 100-1600000. Can you actually shoot at these astronomical levels, of course you can, but is it "acceptable"? In theory I've heard that 50% of your maximum will give an "acceptable" image. In practice I've found my "no problem acceptance" level on the K3II & K1II to be ISO 6400. Above that I might shoot but I want manual control of all my settings, including those hidden in the sub menus.

So to answer your question, study your camera manual, understand what sub menu controls affect your image and how to use them. Finally take multiple test shots using those sub menus and various ISO levels, you'll have "your specific" answer.

I completely agree ...

let me shoot from the hip ... your camera Canon EOS T7 (2000D) is APS-C 24MP budget friendly camera so you cannot expect outstanding ISO performance ... My wild bet would be that with good lightning (a daylight shots of sports/wildlife) the ISO up to ~1200 won't be visible even while doing a pixel peeping, in low light conditions I think that the break line between usable and less usable photo will be something like ISO 1600 ..

I had several APS-C camers including Canon cameras so this is based on my experience (I have now D7200 as my main camera and D5100 as lightweight camera)

also important to not that various kind of the photography and scenery is sensitive very differently to ISO performance ... high ISO will be eating a details or it will be visible against *detaily* tracts like for example a distant wood or mountains or even dramatic sky covering a big portion of photography .. but it will impact perceptually less for example while shooting indoors in club (walls, close subjects) or some action .. but again, this is very relative and each photography is uniq

 

[jeffashman]

What is a good max setting for auto-ISO?

You know after 4 pages I'm not really sure you got an answer to this. The truth is you are probably the only one that can answer this, because what constitutes an acceptable image is subjective. My K3II has a range of ISO 100-51200, the K1MII ISO 100-819200, the newly released K3III ISO 100-1600000. Can you actually shoot at these astronomical levels, of course you can, but is it "acceptable"? In theory I've heard that 50% of your maximum will give an "acceptable" image. In practice I've found my "no problem acceptance" level on the K3II & K1II to be ISO 6400. Above that I might shoot but I want manual control of all my settings, including those hidden in the sub menus.

So to answer your question, study your camera manual, understand what sub menu controls affect your image and how to use them. Finally take multiple test shots using those sub menus and various ISO levels, you'll have "your specific" answer.

Thanks for the input! It’s greatly appreciated. Today I started doing some experimenting. It’s overcast outside, but I still want to be ready if that American Goldfinch shows up at the feeder again. I set my desired speed and f-stop, and then took some throw-away photos (gotta love digital), increasing my ISO until the images weren’t “too dark.” I’ll have to wait until later to see the outcome vis a vis clarity and sharpness. I until this past winter I was a “dumb” photographer, meaning I used my DSLR as an oversized, overpriced instamatic. Now I want more control of the shots. I’ll post photos later today from February that triggered this “awakening.” [emoji16] The discussion everyone has provided has been beneficial, and much of the photography in this site has been an inspiration to strive for better photos of my own.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ntz]

..I set my desired speed and f-stop, and then took some throw-away photos (gotta love digital), increasing my ISO until the images weren’t “too dark.” ...

Jeff, based on what you say I dare to conclude, that your workflow is not right .. it's very uncommon to use an ISO as a key and leading element to get a desired exposure .. you typically use a time (shutter speed) to get the proper EV for your shot .. with analog camera you won't be able to physically replace the film medium (ISO 200 Vs ISO 400) to correct exposure ..

for dynamic subjects I suggest just one of semi-automatic modes with digital cameras (A or S) + exposure correction (that +/- button) swiftly while needed, as I said earlier, in 99% I use A mode, but use whatever fits to you ..

 

[jeffashman]

Thank you! I’ll keep on experimenting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[smoke665]

@jeffashman In studio or outside with lights, I'm in full manual. Otherwise as suggested above my go to is Av (aperture priority) not A (full auto), setting the aperture I need and letting the camera adjust the shutter and ISO (within the limit I've set). Outside even on the best of days, you'll have changing light, that's where the EV (exposure compensation) will be your best friend. From experience with the equipment I know that the 5 axis shake reduction will make it possible to hand hold to 1/25th of a second. If conditions warrant I will shift to TAv to control both aperture and shutter speed. One of the advantages of Pentax is the P mode (Hyper mode) with the magic green button. In P mode it's full auto....until I touch one of the other settings. If I set aperture, it shifts to AV, touch shutter it's AV/TV, touch ISO it shifts to SV (sensitivity priority). If I touch the magic green button, it's back to full auto.

 

[jeffashman]

@jeffashman In studio or outside with lights, I'm in full manual. Otherwise as suggested above my go to is Av (aperture priority) not A (full auto), setting the aperture I need and letting the camera adjust the shutter and ISO (within the limit I've set). Outside even on the best of days, you'll have changing light, that's where the EV (exposure compensation) will be your best friend. From experience with the equipment I know that the 5 axis shake reduction will make it possible to hand hold to 1/25th of a second. If conditions warrant I will shift to TAv to control both aperture and shutter speed. One of the advantages of Pentax is the P mode (Hyper mode) with the magic green button. In P mode it's full auto....until I touch one of the other settings. If I set aperture, it shifts to AV, touch shutter it's AV/TV, touch ISO it shifts to SV (sensitivity priority). If I touch the magic green button, it's back to full auto.

Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ntz]

@jeffashman In studio or outside with lights, I'm in full manual. Otherwise as suggested above my go to is Av (aperture priority) not A (full auto), setting the aperture I need and letting the camera adjust the shutter and ISO (within the limit I've set). Outside even on the best of days, you'll have changing light, that's where the EV (exposure compensation) will be your best friend. From experience with the equipment I know that the 5 axis shake reduction will make it possible to hand hold to 1/25th of a second. If conditions warrant I will shift to TAv to control both aperture and shutter speed. One of the advantages of Pentax is the P mode (Hyper mode) with the magic green button. In P mode it's full auto....until I touch one of the other settings. If I set aperture, it shifts to AV, touch shutter it's AV/TV, touch ISO it shifts to SV (sensitivity priority). If I touch the magic green button, it's back to full auto.

yeah, with A I meant Aperture priority, not auto ... those modes are M A S P ..

 

[weepete]

I'd be happy using that camera to ISO 3200. Above 3200 with that sensor, it's a call to whither the shot is strong enough to warrant it.

If I could get similar shots again I'd probably pass until I could get better lighting, if it's a unique shot I'm unlikely to get again I'd just crank the ISO and bank one.