lens confusion , mainly value for money

[enerlevel]

hi all ,
just recently got the canon 6D. and have been looking into some second hand general purpose lens.
1) Canon 24-105 F4 IS
2) Canon 24-70 F2.8 MK I
3) Canon 17-40 F4.

Now i do alot of low light shooting, mostly group family potraits (f6-f8) or some single still shots, mostly still subjects for which IS helps me by lowering the shutter speed to get more light. in some recent tests i did, at 70mm i could take a clean shot with 1/60th on the 24-105 f4 and 1/100th on the 24-70 f2.8. at this point, both were metering at 400 ISO. So basically either lens would give me similar results apart from the DOF.

now the question is ,
the 24-105 f4 is £400
the 24-70 f2.8 is £700
the 17-40 f4 is £400

now if i buy the 24-105, i can also add in a little to buy the 17-40 together but if i want to buy the 24-70, then it has to be only it.
which choice would you guys buy?
thanks.

 

[tirediron]

For IQ, the 24-70, however I wouldn't shoot a single-person portrait at anything less than 85mm (and usually over 100), so for that reason the 24-105.

 

[enerlevel]

For IQ, the 24-70, however I wouldn't shoot a single-person portrait at anything less than 85mm (and usually over 100), so for that reason the 24-105.

thanks for the reply, i mostly take shoots of family members and friends (30-35mm) , and it is always 2+ ppl in the shot and because of that i have to use f6-f8 to get everyone sharp.
its because of this that i am just thinking to spend the extra cash on the 24-70 ...

 

[tirediron]

I would strongly recommend much longer focal lengths unless it is absolutely necessary to shoot with such short lenses.

 

[enerlevel]

I would strongly recommend much longer focal lengths unless it is absolutely necessary to shoot with such short lenses.

yes the distance between me and my family members is like just across the table... i tried using 50mm but that is too tight... therefore anything above tht would be impossible ...

 

[TreeofLifeStairs]

You might want to think about using a prime lens. They usually have better iq, faster, and less money (generally).

 

[enerlevel]

You might want to think about using a prime lens. They usually have better iq, faster, and less money (generally).

hi,
i was thinking about the 40mm 2.8 Stm lens ... any idea how it would perform on the 6d FF body?

 

[TreeofLifeStairs]

From what it sounds like, you'll probably like it but like tirediron said, it's pretty wide for portrature.

 

[bratkinson]

Enerlevel -
Don't get so 'hung up' on shooting at ISO 400! Your camera is capable of practically noise-free images at ISO 12,000 when necessary!

Why do I say this? Because you will definitely need faster shutter speeds than 1/60th and 1/100th to absolutely 'freeze action' on the subjects. A little camera shake is accommodated by the IS on the lenses. But in my experience, subject motion can only be stopped with shutter speeds in the 1/125 and higher for relatively motionless or slow-moving people. Also note that shooting with lenses 'wide open', they won't be at their sharpest, and, your DOF will be quite thin.

I do a lot of available-light indoor work with my 5Diii. I have to shoot at ISO 3200 and higher to keep the apertures at f5 and higher for sufficient DOF and shutter speeds in the 1/160-1/250 range to freeze subject motion. High ISO speeds with low noise was the highest-priority in my choice to upgrade to a 5Diii from a 60D. Your 6D will produce comparable, perhaps even better high ISO speed results.

In short, any of the 3 L lenses you indicated will work quite well for you. They'll work even better if you perform Micro Focus Adjustment (MFA) on them. My 24-105 f4L went from 'a tad soft' to as sharp as a 70-200 f2.8L mark I (in my opinion) after I performed MFA after I got my 5Diii. Also, for what it's worth, the 24-105 is my main lens (of 4) and gets used 60-70% of the time.

 

[TCampbell]

As soon as you mentioned you want something to shoot portraits, I mentally grabbed the red marker and scratched the 17-40 off the list. That's not flattering for portraits. It's an 'effect' you might occasionally like, but you probably don't want that for the bulk of your shots.

For "groups" I'd use the 24-70... but for individuals I'd want longer. I like using my 70-200mm f/2.8 as a portrait lens, but you don't want to have to walk back to the next county to fit everyone into the frame.

While faster speeds are certainly better, with good technique most people can shoot at 1/focal-length (e.g. at 50mm you should be able to shoot at 1/50th... at 100mm you should be able to shoot at 1/100th). Use your left hand to support the bottom of the camera & lens with your palm up (don't hold it "overhand", hold it "underhand"). Keep your elbows low and in (think of your whole body/camera as a structural engineering problem... how would you get the best and most solid support?) Stand without leaning so that your center of gravity is between your legs (which benefit from a wide stance). This gives your body a strong and solid base so that you will be less shaky and will hopefully allow you to shoot clean shots at lower speeds. Oh... and cheat. If there's something you can lean on while you shoot... lean on it (a post, a wall, etc. -- as long as it doesn't ruin your composition).