My long exposure picture is too bright

[astroNikon]

If you have a good picture with proper exposure

and you make the shutter speed shorter

you would have to do one of two things to equal it out for a proper exposure
change the aperture (a smaller f number) which lets more light in
:lmao::hug:::hail::violin: --> OR/and increase the ISO which makes it more sensitive to light

OR: Change the aperture AND the ISO......

umm ... yup

 

[hamlet]

I hope to get some nice dreamy pictures once my 10 stop ND filter arrives. I am starting to figure out why this filter is so essential.

 

[astroNikon]

I hope to get some nice dreamy pictures once my 10 stop ND filter arrives. I am starting to figure out why this filter is so essential.

What brand did you end up getting ?

 

[hamlet]

I settled for a tiffen for my 52mm lens. This for my starting glass, so my thought process told me not to go overboard with a B+W, Singh or Heliopan. The other lenses i have in my wish list are not 52mm, so it wouldn't make sense to get the best for this glass since i probably won't be using my basic lens again.


Wishlist:

Nikon AF-S VR 70-300 f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED
Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM Lens for Nikon

Very excited!

 

[480sparky41 40]

I settled for a tiffen for my 52mm lens. ..........

You have a 52mm lens, or the lens takes 52mm filters?

 

[hamlet]

Filter Size.

*edit*
Upon further reflection, i can see how confusing my previous post is. Filter size on the lens is what i mean to say.

 

[hamlet]

It took me some time to start feeling comfortable in it. The exposure meter in your D3100 is your BEST friend to learn how to do photographs in manual without really understanding it. Then the understanding will come with more experimentation.

d3100 exposure meter
How to Read and Adjust the Exposure Meter on a Nikon D3100 - For Dummies

here's an example of the D5100
Reading and Adjusting the Exposure Meter on a Nikon D5100 - For Dummies

This is really handy. Thanks!

 

[hamlet]

Shooting in manual is, I think one of the easiest ways to understand exposure. Since you were using a 30 second shutter speed, you would have wanted to drop down your ISO to 100 or 200, and perhaps even with that, you may have needed to drop your shutter speed as well, depending on how dark or light it was in the tunnel itself. Your aperture is like the pupils in your eyes. It controls how much light is coming in. The smaller it is (Or larger f/stop number, such as f/22), the less light gets in. The bigger it is (the smaller f/stop number, such as f/2.8), the more light gets in. The shutter speed controls how long light is allowed to enter. And as mentioned, the ISO controls its amplification.

Regardless of what you're shooting, if you keep an eye the exposure on your meter, if it's dead center, it should end up with a balanced exposure, though I'll warn that different exposure modes read light slightly differently. What's shot in, say "Spot" metering at ISO 400, f/8, and with a 1/600 shutter speed, could look very different than the same settings shot in "Matrix". Sometimes, you'll want to over expose, sometimes under expose, depending on circumstances, but that's something that takes a bit of time learning the basics first.

So my suggestion is go out with your camera and shoot in Manual for some practice. Play and experiment with it. Keep an eye on your meter, and have fun! The More you shoot, the better understanding you'll get, and will eventually get to a point to where you can recall rough settings for any given situation.

I will try your suggestions tomorrow. I will post the results of my manual endeavours.

 

[hamlet]

30 second exposure
iso 1600
That's all i know because i set on the S symbol. The camera decides all the other settings, but i changed my iso in the menu manually.

Load the image into View NX 2. It came with the camera. If you don't have it, you can download it free from Nikon. On the right of the screen, you will be able to see your aperture.

That is one handy program. Here is the information you requested of my OP image:

 

[480sparky41 40]

That is one handy program. Here is the information you requested of my OP image:

Let's start with the good, ol' standby, the Sunny 16 rule: When you shoot at ISO 100, and 1/100 sec, you should set your aperture at f/16 on a sunny day. As you were shooting at f/32, that would under-expose a sunny day image by 2 stops (f/16 to f/32). In order to compensate for that, you would need to balance that out by changing your shutter speed by two stops.... 1/100 to 1/25.

Now, given that you were shooting on a cloudy day, the issue becomes 'how much less light is there on a heavily overcast day as opposed to a nice sunny day?' The answer is: 3-4 stops. So to obtain a correct exposure on a very cloudy day, you would need to 'slow down' your shutter another 3-4 stops. Let's say 4 stops. 1/25.... 1/12....1/6...1/3....1/1.6. So ISO 100, f/32 and 1/1.6 second should be in the ball park for your overcast day.

Aye... there's the rub. You shot at 30 seconds. That's almost 6 stops overexposed (64x too much light) !!! No wonder it's mostly white. You would need to add a 6-stop ND filter to make 30 seconds work.

 

[hamlet]

How about a 10 stop filter?

 

[pgriz]

Hamlet, you're going to have to do the math. I've a 10-stop filter, and I prepared a sheet showing how much additional time I need if I had a regular exposure without it. But a 10-stop filter requires you to understand the basic techniques, because you'll need to do your aperture selection, focus, framing, BEFORE you put on the filter (so, manual focus, manual exposure). Also, given that the 10-stop exposure will usually be in the 20 sec to 960 sec range (the latter is 16 minutes), you will also need a solid tripod, a shutter release, and a stopwatch or software tool like Magic Lantern. AND, if you have long-exposure noise-suppression enabled on your camera, the camera will follow your exposure by another exposure of the same length (this is called the dark frame) which it will use to minimize the eventual image's noise.

The typical shooting scenario is as follows, for me>

1) Select the scene. I'm going to shoot the lake at my cottage just before sunset.
2) Select the framing. This usually means that I determine what focal length would be "right" on my zoom lens. I want a wide angle-view, so I'm selecting 24mm on my 24-105mm zoom.
3) Select the ISO. Since I'm reducing light, I will usually pick the lowest ISO I have, which is 100 on my camera.
4) Figure out the depth of field I want - this determines the aperture (Depth-of-field is determined by aperture + focal length). There's some rocks at the shore edge that I want to be sharp, and they are about 4 feet away. I also want to have the horizon in focus. Looking up my DOF tables, I see that at 24mm (on a 1.6x crop camera), at f/16 focused at 10 ft, I get the acceptable DOF range from 3.85 ft. to infinity. Perfect. f/16 it is.
5) Measure the scene in terms of exposure. Sunset at ISO 100, f/16 will usually require about 1/15 sec exposure. Take a shot to be sure, and check the histogram to see if there is clipping or blocking.
6) Put the camera on a tripod, plug in the remote shutter release, adjust the camera so you get the desired framing.
7) Put the lens in manual, turn off IS (image stabilization), turn on live-view, and focus on the 10-ft. point.
8) Take another photo and check the framing, focus, exposure.
9) Without moving anything, put on the 10-stop filter.
10) Set the shutter speed. 1/15 second exposure under regular conditions will be a 60 second exposure with a 10 ND filter. That means the shutter has to be on B(ulb), and I will manually have to time 60 seconds.
11) Set the release on your remote shutter release, and hold it for 60 seconds before releasing the shutter. Now you have your 60 second exposure.
12) Wait another 60 seconds while the camera exposes its dark frame.
13) Now you can see what the result is on your LCD.

See? Easy-peasy if you understand exposure, understand DOF, and know how to use the tools.

 

[480sparky41 40]

How about a 10 stop filter?

Then you would need to adjust the exposure another 4 stops.

 

[Devinhullphoto]

I always try to keep my ISO as low as I can while being able to maintain a decent shutter speed. I can comfortable hold a shot at 1/15 and it won't have camera shake. If I need faster speed, I up the ISO. Occasionally I'll change aperture but usually I have that set to what I'd like the DOF to turn out like. Because if I really need the extra light I don't wanna have to cut back on what can be in focus. I'd rather keep that than worry about a little noise that can be fixed.

 

[hamlet]

Hamlet, you're going to have to do the math. I've a 10-stop filter, and I prepared a sheet showing how much additional time I need if I had a regular exposure without it. But a 10-stop filter requires you to understand the basic techniques, because you'll need to do your aperture selection, focus, framing, BEFORE you put on the filter (so, manual focus, manual exposure). Also, given that the 10-stop exposure will usually be in the 20 sec to 960 sec range (the latter is 16 minutes), you will also need a solid tripod, a shutter release, and a stopwatch or software tool like Magic Lantern. AND, if you have long-exposure noise-suppression enabled on your camera, the camera will follow your exposure by another exposure of the same length (this is called the dark frame) which it will use to minimize the eventual image's noise.

The typical shooting scenario is as follows, for me>

1) Select the scene. I'm going to shoot the lake at my cottage just before sunset.
2) Select the framing. This usually means that I determine what focal length would be "right" on my zoom lens. I want a wide angle-view, so I'm selecting 24mm on my 24-105mm zoom.
3) Select the ISO. Since I'm reducing light, I will usually pick the lowest ISO I have, which is 100 on my camera.
4) Figure out the depth of field I want - this determines the aperture (Depth-of-field is determined by aperture + focal length). There's some rocks at the shore edge that I want to be sharp, and they are about 4 feet away. I also want to have the horizon in focus. Looking up my DOF tables, I see that at 24mm (on a 1.6x crop camera), at f/16 focused at 10 ft, I get the acceptable DOF range from 3.85 ft. to infinity. Perfect. f/16 it is.
5) Measure the scene in terms of exposure. Sunset at ISO 100, f/16 will usually require about 1/15 sec exposure. Take a shot to be sure, and check the histogram to see if there is clipping or blocking.
6) Put the camera on a tripod, plug in the remote shutter release, adjust the camera so you get the desired framing.
7) Put the lens in manual, turn off IS (image stabilization), turn on live-view, and focus on the 10-ft. point.
8) Take another photo and check the framing, focus, exposure.
9) Without moving anything, put on the 10-stop filter.
10) Set the shutter speed. 1/15 second exposure under regular conditions will be a 60 second exposure with a 10 ND filter. That means the shutter has to be on B(ulb), and I will manually have to time 60 seconds.
11) Set the release on your remote shutter release, and hold it for 60 seconds before releasing the shutter. Now you have your 60 second exposure.
12) Wait another 60 seconds while the camera exposes its dark frame.
13) Now you can see what the result is on your LCD.

See? Easy-peasy if you understand exposure, understand DOF, and know how to use the tools.

I didn't know that the cameras exposure could be set more than 30 seconds, so that's what bulb mode is for. I have seen other photographers use cheat sheets for long exposure photography. Is there maybe one i could use for my 10 stop filter?