My next lens will be a macro lens :)

Overread · Mar 17, 2010

It means that she used a reversing ring (cheaply bought on ebay) so that she could attach one lens infront of the other via their filter rings. The result is that using the lens backwards it acts like a magnifying glass. Just make sure that you get both thread sizes for the reversing ring correct for your lens setup (you might need a stepping ring incase there is not a reversing ring for your two threads) and then mount the 50mm f1.8 infront of the kit lens. The kit lens (mounted onthe camera) uses its aperture blades and focusing for the shot whilst the other lens just sits there

Ron Evers · Mar 17, 2010

As mentioned above by Overread, you can get a close-up lens that clips onto the front of your kit lens. This was shot with a Raynox DCR 150 clipped onto the camera lens.

burstintoflame81 · Mar 17, 2010

I just got the Kenko tubes. While I haven't had the chance to really use them, I tested them on my desk top real quick and they seem sturdy enough for the price. I also own their 2x teleconverter which I have been very happy with and I also have owned two Tokina lenses made by the same company as the kenko stuff that were solidly built.

I also have a canon "Diopter" 250d close up lense and I would probably recommend the tubes over it just with the limited amount I have messed with them so far.

Reverse rings work well since you can just use the standard kit lens, but I heard that a lot of times the DOF suffers because you can't adjust it and it just defaults to the widest setting ( not sure about all this, someone who recommended them and uses them could elaborate more, but I just thought I would bring it up ) This is definately the cheapest and quickest method though.

JeffieLove · Mar 17, 2010

I am reading all of this on my iPhone so I want to make sure I have the recommendations right.

Basically I can get the reversing rings (and?) tubes that overread linked to and that should be all I need?

And with the reversing rings, my kit lens is a 52 mm diameter and the 50mm is a 58 mm diameter. So what would that mean as far as the reversing rings go?

If I wasn't on my phone typing this message and I was sitting in front of the computer I would be researching this on my own. But I am sitting in my kids' bed room trying to get them to fall asleep lol

TJ K · Mar 17, 2010

Also there is the I think it's the canon 500d macro filter or something, it's supposed to be pretty good.
TJ

JeffieLove · Mar 17, 2010

So now I am looking at polarizing filters as well for my kit lens since that is the one I use the most. I have heard the recommendations of circular and multi-coated. So I did a search on adorama for circular and this is what came up. There are a bunch of things on this page that I have never seen mentioned. Which of these would be a good one to go with?

58mm circular polarizing filter - Adorama.com

Hooker771 · Mar 17, 2010

Overread my boss has these that I have attached onto my Tamron 100mm Macro and they work great for half the price of the Kenko. They are plastic but do have all the electrical connectors. Worth the money for a change!

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Optic-Budget-Extention-Cameras/dp/B002MO9MB0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1268881089&sr=8-1]Amazon.com: Pro Optic Budget Auto Extention Tube Set for Canon EOS SLR Cameras (Meike): Electronics[/ame]

JeffieLove · Mar 17, 2010

so here is what I have in my cart so far on adorama... Tell me what you all think...

Kenko DG Auto Extension Tube Set for the Canon EOS AF Mount.
Adorama Lens Reversing Ring for Canon EOS Lenses with a 52mm Filter Thread.
Adorama Lens Reversing Ring for Canon EOS Auto Focus Lenses with a 58mm Filter Thread.
Adorama Step-Up Adapter Ring 52mm Lens to 58mm Filter Size
Tamron 55-200mm f/4.0-5.6 DI-II LD Macro Ultra Compact Auto Focus Telephoto Zoom Lens

still looking for a polarizing filter...

I think since I am getting the step-up ring, I am going to get 52mm filters from now on...

The Tam lens is a 52mm diameter, and my kit lens is 52... The only lens I have that is 58mm diameter is the prime lens...

Overread · Mar 17, 2010

Hmm I think we have 3 budget options on the table at the moment - lets break them up a little and recap:

Extension tubes:
Rough math for getting to 1:1 (true macro) is using the same length of tube in mm as you have for focal length - so around 50mm of tubes for a 50mm lens. On a 50mm f1.8 a set of tubes is a great way to get into macro and lets you retain all your AF, metering and aperture control provided you get tubes with contacts. The Kenko AF are generally the most popular, though as Hooker shows there are other tubes on the market with contacts. Kenko are just the most well known (eg we don't get Pro Optic in the UK unless they trade under another name).

Reversing rings:
Essentially allowing you to reverse one lens upon another and take advantage of the magnification effect. However the magnifiaction you get is (rough math again) equal to the lens fitted to the cameras focal length divided by the focal length of the lens attached. So for example if you have a 18-200mm lens, set to 200mm mounted on the camera body and then attach a 50mm lens reversed you would have a magnifiaction factor of 200/50 = 4:1.
I assume that a 18-55mm on the camera with a 50mm reversed would give you 50/50 = 1 and thus 1:1 (true) macro again.
You get to keep your aperture control by using the lens attached to the camera body to change the aperture - on a CANON lens when not attached the aperture blades are set to open (unless tricked to close) and thus the reversed lens lets in max light. Nikon lenses do the opposite and close the aperture blades so I have less idea how effective reversing is for nikon setups.

Diopters (macro filters):
I'll admit I don't even know the rough math for these, but essentialy the diopter rating is its power - the higher the power the more magnification you get. There are quite a few good ones on the market - the Canon 250D and 500D as well as the Raynox series DCR 150 and DCR 250 - Raynox also make other diopters but they tend to be a lot more costly or (sadly) out of production.
Diopters work just like tubes, but they do give more magnification for a longer focal length lens - so a single diopter (of any rating) would give you more magnification on a 200mm lens than on a 50mm lens.

Overread · Mar 17, 2010

JeffieLove said:
so here is what I have in my cart so far on adorama... Tell me what you all think...

Kenko DG Auto Extension Tube Set for the Canon EOS AF Mount.
Adorama Lens Reversing Ring for Canon EOS Lenses with a 52mm Filter Thread.
Adorama Lens Reversing Ring for Canon EOS Auto Focus Lenses with a 58mm Filter Thread.
Adorama Step-Up Adapter Ring 52mm Lens to 58mm Filter Size
Tamron 55-200mm f/4.0-5.6 DI-II LD Macro Ultra Compact Auto Focus Telephoto Zoom Lens

still looking for a polarizing filter...

I think since I am getting the step-up ring, I am going to get 52mm filters from now on...

The Tam lens is a 52mm diameter, and my kit lens is 52... The only lens I have that is 58mm diameter is the prime lens...

Wait wait wait wait I think we have some wires crossed here:

1) The reversing rings you have listed allow you to reverse the camera lens on to the camera mount itself - not onto another lens. Sorry I should have used the right name earlier - you need coupler rings or coupler reversing rings (not quite sure of the actual name) that have two filter threads on them - one for the lens on the camera and the other for the lens to be attached. If you try to use the one you currently have you will have no aperture controls at all.
If I were you I would aim to get a coupler ring for the 50mm f1.8 to the Tamron 50-200mm. That gives you a 1:1 macro at 50mm on the zoom through to 4:1 at the 200mm end (that should keep you busy for a long while macro wise).

EDIT: found coupling rings:
http://www.adorama.com/MCMCR5252.html
http://www.adorama.com/MCMCR5858.html
either way you will need a stepping ring to fit to one lens but this is what you need

2) If you get filters all 58mm in size they will fit the tamron and you can use a stepping ring to attach them to your 52mm lenses. One good filter will fit both that way. If you get 52mm filters they won't fit your 58mm - you can use stepping rings to get them to but you risk vignetting (on crop sensor though you might get away without problems)

JeffieLove · Mar 17, 2010

so if I am going to use the 50mm and the tam 55-200, which one would I want to attach to the body??? I'm getting confused now lol
And actually, if I use the kit lens + tam 55-200, I will still get 4:1, right? And they both have the same diameter which would mean I wouldn't need the stepping ring... Or is the reason you're telling me to use the 50mm is because of the speed of the lens?

And with the 52mm-58mm stepping ring, wouldn't that be better than going 58mm-52mm?

And with macro - if it is 4:1, that means it will be 4x life size, right?

JeffieLove · Mar 18, 2010

Any answer to those questions?

Overread · Mar 18, 2010

Your kit lens and the 50-200mm might have the same front thread size, but whilst that makes it easy you really want to use the 50mm f1.8. The reasons are two fold, firstly its a prime lens and far sharper than your kit lens, that helps to give you improved overall image quality. Secondly its max aperture is f1.8 whilst the kit lens is something like 5.6 at the 50mm end. That is a dramatic difference in the amount of light let through and you will need very bit of it to help you focus the shot (let alone make an exposure).

As for which lens to be mounted on your camera - the heavier one - the 50-200mm. That way you only have the lighter lens supported on the front threads. It also makes controling the zoom factor easier.

And yes 4:1 is four times life size. I would recomend starting at the 50mm end of the zoom (around 1:1) and working toward 4:1 - the more you increase the magnification the smaller your depth of field gets and the greater diffraction will limit you. Diffraction being the softening of images at an aperture value no matter how well you take the shot. With most lenses f13 is where you start to notice and f16 is where it really starts to make a difference and soften you results. However down at 4:1 you will be noticing it at even f8 - so that means either greater depth and softer images or sharper images and an even finer depth of field.

JeffieLove · Mar 18, 2010

so last question (I think) if I use the tam lens on the body, I need a reversing ring, right?

Then on the end of the tam lens, I will put on the 52mm coupling ring... After that would be the 52-58mm step up ring... then I would put on the 58mm coupling ring... right? Or could I skip the 52mm coupling ring and just use the 52-58mm step up ring?

Overread · Mar 18, 2010

Nopes - just connect the 50-200mm to the camera as normal - then on the end of that attach the coupling ring to its filter thread and then attach the stepping ring then the 50mm f1.8. You need at least one stepping ring since they have different front threads.

Forget the reversing rings (correctly I mean the coupling rings when I mentioned reversing before)