Need Advice On A Macro Lens

[Raos]

I love taking photos and can take a decent shot (I have sold a few pieces), but I am completely self taught and do not know any of the academics behind photography. I do not know much about F stops, but know what happens to my image if I turn the dial one way or the other. I know how to get the shot I want, but don't know the why behind how I got there.

I love macro photography and would like to purchase a macro lens, but have next to zero idea what I should be looking at when looking for a macro lens. I see all different types and I am hoping to get some advice on what would be a good choice for me. I am shooting with a Nikon D70S right now.

My macro photography has been things like flowers, insects, dew on leaves, and those sorts of standard shots that everyone seems to take. I would like to take more shots like that, but I would also like to expand my macro photography to include other things that I will figure out as I go along.

Can you give me any advice on what to look for in a lens and possible suggestions of actual lenses? My budget is around $500, but I would like to keep it as low as possible of course. Also, my tripod is a bit bulky so I take a lot of handheld shots right now. I know that is a no-no in macro usually, but this is just for fun so that is how I am doing it for now. With that in mind I am guessing I will want a lens with some sort of vibration cancellation as well. Thanks for any advice and recommendations you can give me!

 

[tirediron]

There are two that I would suggest; the Nikkor 60mm and the Nikkor 105mm (Both 'D' series). These will work fine and even auto-focus on your camera body ('though you rarely want auto-focus) for macro work. Used, the 60mm goes for $350-400 and the 105m for $450 - 550. Of the two, and for your stated purpose, I would go for the 105mm as it will allow you get true 1:1 magnification, but be further back from your subjects.

 

[Raos]

So if I understand correctly, the larger the mm number the further I can be away from the subject. Is that right? I have been using a dSLR for a number of years now, but never for macro photography. All my macro work has been done with point and shoots so I am used to getting a few inches from my subject. With something like the 105 does that mean I will be able to take the same sort of shots, but from a number of feet away instead of a number of inches?

Also, what does the 1:1 mean. I see that a lot when looking at macro lenses, but don't really understand what is meant by it.

 

[tirediron]

the larger the mm number the further I can be away from the subject. Is that right?

Exactly, (that number of mm is the focal length of the lens) although the diffference isn't as dramatic as inches compared to feet, you may go only go from 2" to 6" it can make a huge difference if you're shooting insects or other 'skittish' creatures.

Also, what does the 1:1 mean.

It means that the lens is a true macro lens and that it will reproduce the subject at a 1:1 to ratio, or, in other words, it will focus closely enough that a subject 5mm long in real life will recorded as 5mm long on the sensor. Many so-called macro lenses, especially longer focal-length zooms which advertise themselves as being macro lenses can only reproduce 1:2 or 1:3 (the largest the image will be on the sensor is 1/2 or 1/3 full-size) and thus, are not true macro lenses.

 

[flatflip]

It is possible that your point and shoot has more zoom than the equivalent of 105mm. Therefore you may or may not be able to position your lens further away than your point and shoot. You should get better images though with the fixed macro 105mm and I think you'll have more fun too.

 

[Josh66]

Something to keep in mind - all true macro lenses (meaning they can do 1:1) will give you the same magnification. All the longer lenses do is let you do that from farther away.

1:1 is 1:1... Now, more working distance is nice for bugs and stuff like that - things that might react to your presence.

Tirediron hit on that, just thought I'd expand on it a little...

 

[pgriz]

Besides the macro lens, since you will be working with small things highly magnified (at least compared to regular shooting), you will need to minimize camera shake, and deal with a very narrow depth-of-field. The former usually means a tripod, ability to lock up the mirror, trigger the shutter remotely. The latter can involve focusing rails (Ron posted his setup in another thread), and/or a stage for your subjects.

Flash is often used to create a brief flash of light (minimizing camera and subject movement), but it has to be set up as an off-camera flash, which means either synch cords or some kind of wireless setup. For lighting purposes, two flashes are usually better than one.

And the list goes on.

Good macro shooting is a discipline in itself.

 

[djacobox372]

If you're on a budget, I'd recommend a 105mm f4 ais micro Nikkor along with a cheap set of extension tubes. The manual focus lens won't meter on your D70, so you'll have to use it in "M" mode. This isn't that big of deal since macro work is typically done with a flash anyway, so the lighting is very controlled.

This will cost you less around $150 total. A new 105mm macro VR lens cost $950 + another $100 for extension tubes that retain autofocus and metering. Optically the old ais lenses are just as good as the new lenses, you're just sacrificing some convenience by lacking autofocus, VR and metering on the d70.

Oh, and you'll need a flash, as you will be shooting at very small apertures with high shutter speeds. The DOF becomes very narrow with high magnification, so you'll be shooting at F8 and higher.

I have a manfrotto 330b flash bracket that lets me mount two flashes on either side of my subject. It works really well for macro work.

 

[Raos]

Thanks everyone. This is all great info!

 

[Marc-Etienne]

I would recommend you to consider a focusing rail. Your depth of field is so narrow that it allows you to move your camera by very small increments rather than trying to focus with the focusing ring, especially if you had extension tube, it will get way easier. You can get really cheap one on Ebay. Also, if you already have a speedlight, I would recommend you to build yourself this ring flash. I just finish mine for fairly cheap and this way I can have a ring flash when I needed and a speedlight the rest of the time.

 

[Raos]

That DIY ring flash looks great and gives me another excuse to use the Dremel I just bought. Thanks.