Need help figuring out this Flash..

[Braineack]

being too expensive ($20-30) doesn't mean they can't fire from camera.

I don't feel like bothering with this anymore.

 

[D7K]

TBH I've read this through and I'm still no wiser what the issue is here other than money, as has been said a few times - sometimes without spending a bit more you can't always have what you want, once again has been pointed out in many of your threads you appear to become quite rude and snippy as and when people offer you assistance, advice or anything to be honest. Sit back and relax, there's a lot you can learn in the forum and many willing to help but when you run around like you are at the moment, most people would take the route of Braineack and just quit trying with you..

I'm not sure if you deem having the "Supporting Member" under your name as a free card to act this way or not, but seriously, take a step back.. the advice you've been offered is sound, and to be fair, most of it could be found on google...

 

[Life]

TBH I've read this through and I'm still no wiser what the issue is here other than money, as has been said a few times - sometimes without spending a bit more you can't always have what you want, once again has been pointed out in many of your threads you appear to become quite rude and snippy as and when people offer you assistance, advice or anything to be honest. Sit back and relax, there's a lot you can learn in the forum and many willing to help but when you run around like you are at the moment, most people would take the route of Braineack and just quit trying with you..

I'm not sure if you deem having the "Supporting Member" under your name as a free card to act this way or not, but seriously, take a step back.. the advice you've been offered is sound, and to be fair, most of it could be found on google...

Absolutely the advice Robbins, and astroNikon have given me are very sound. Many thanks to them. And if everyone got all info from google than this forum wouldn't exist. Oh Fyi. " Need to spend more to get what you want" is sometimes true. but in this case it's crap because some people like me just plain and simple cannot dish out the extra $$. And not to forget to mention that I came to this thread knowing certain things, and then I was told something else that I have 0 idea about so I ask a question about that, and then one thing leads to another. One day every assumes I know nothing then next day everyone assumes I know everything. I only asked for a simply answer. I respect that the first 2 pages or so were helpful but then it just got sidetracked and everyone tells me to buy this and that and every other thing that really I got know idea how it goes with my original question.

 

[Braineack]

your original question was: hey guys i need something that allows me to mount this flash on a bracket and work.

Braineack says: okay, use this.

wait that doesn't work when I want to flash wirelessly...

then says: okay, use this.

wait that's too rich for my blood and won't work anyway.

then braineack gives up.

 

[WayneF]

Look into an off camera flash connecting cord, at Flashzebra.com. Forget the triggers and remotes and just BUY A CORD, or two, and hard-wire the flash units together, and connect the main unit to the hotshoe. Still the easiest and least hassle, and the EASIEST to troubleshoot, by farrrrrrrr. Cheap Chinese remotes fail....maybe not today, maybe not next week, but next...Christmas...or next big birthday party.Or the batteries die. Or you misplace a tranmitter or a receiver, or one of the needed TWO transcievers! ACK!!!

This weekend I used an almost 30 year-old Nikon SC-17 TTL remote cord for a few shots of off-camera flash. I bought it when I was 24. I am 51 years old now. If it does not fire the flash, or FLASHES....which can be connected to one another by cords, that means the cord is 1)unplugged or 2) broken. I did not need batteries, or tranmitter/receiver and batteries, or batteries, transmitter, receiver and CORDS, and the right channel and a line of sight, and so on. All I needed was "the connecting cord".

On a flash bracket, a TTL connecting cord like a Nikon SC-28 or SC-29 is the schizznit for bracket flash triggering.

I only read the first page, but Derrel's response is the correct one.

I would not say that the camera internal flash (in manual mode) would not trigger the 560 (in S1 mode) on a bracket... it possibly might (if I had to bet, I'd say it might), but it is not direct line of sight, and would not be a normal way. The commander typically does work that way (flash on a bracket above it), but the 560 does not have that mode.

The normal and preferred way is to add either a PC sync cord between camera and flash, or to use a hot shoe extension cord (Nikon SC-28 or SC-17) between them. The hot shoe extension cord would allow TTL, except the 560 cannot do TTL, so there would be no advantage (other than PC is not always a reliable connection). I also still use the older SC-17 cords (plentiful on Ebay), and they still work fine. The only difference (between SC-28 and SC-17) is the newer shoe pin lock. But 1) the 560 does not have that pin lock anyway, and 2) the Nikon flash pin is spring loaded, and you can drop the pin anyway, and the flash will not budge.

 

[Braineack]

Look into an off camera flash connecting cord, at Flashzebra.com. Forget the triggers and remotes and just BUY A CORD, or two, and hard-wire the flash units together, and connect the main unit to the hotshoe. Still the easiest and least hassle, and the EASIEST to troubleshoot, by farrrrrrrr. Cheap Chinese remotes fail....maybe not today, maybe not next week, but next...Christmas...or next big birthday party.Or the batteries die. Or you misplace a tranmitter or a receiver, or one of the needed TWO transcievers! ACK!!!

This weekend I used an almost 30 year-old Nikon SC-17 TTL remote cord for a few shots of off-camera flash. I bought it when I was 24. I am 51 years old now. If it does not fire the flash, or FLASHES....which can be connected to one another by cords, that means the cord is 1)unplugged or 2) broken. I did not need batteries, or tranmitter/receiver and batteries, or batteries, transmitter, receiver and CORDS, and the right channel and a line of sight, and so on. All I needed was "the connecting cord".

On a flash bracket, a TTL connecting cord like a Nikon SC-28 or SC-29 is the schizznit for bracket flash triggering.

I only read the first page, but Derrel's response is the correct one.

I would not say that the camera internal flash (in manual mode) would not trigger the 560 (in S1 mode), it possibly might (if I had to bet, I'd say it would), but it is not direct line of sight, and would not be a normal way. The commander typically does work that way (flash on a bracket above it), but the 560 does not have that mode.

The normal way is to add either a PC sync cord between camera and flash, or to use a hot shoe extension cord (Nikon SC-28 or SC-17) between them. The hot shoe extension cord would allow TTL, except the 560 cannot do TTL, so there would be no advantage (other than PC is not always a reliable connection). I also still use the older SC-17 cords (plentiful on Ebay), and they still work fine. The only difference (between SC-28 and SC-17) is the newer shoe pin lock. But 1) the 560 does not have that pin lock anyway, and 2) the Nikon flash pin is spring loaded, and you can drop the pin anyway, and the flash will not budge.

whoa buddy, how does that cord solve his problem with mounting the flash in a wireless location? :er:

 

[Derrel]

Amazon.com : Yongnuo YN-560 II Speedlight Flash for Canon and Nikon. GN58. : On Camera Shoe Mount Flashes : Camera & Photo I've been looking at / for flashes and this one caught my eye. I've done research, and like what I see, BUT. It is an all manual flash, I know what part of that means, but not 100%. #1: Will this flash work if I mount it on my bracket, Amazon.com : Neewer® CN-160 (L-Shape Bracket) : Camera & Photo #2: It being manual, and it would work on that bracket, do I use my pop up flash to activate this yongnuo flash? Thanks guys!

I JUST re-read the original post really carefully. You mentioned the POP-UP flash. ANd then using a Yongy flash off-camera, on a bracket. ANd then, LATER, you introduced the ideo that the on-camea hot shoe has a THIRD FLASH in it? or a "macro flash"? Not sure why you are so surprised this thread got derailed. You also failed to mention what CAMERA brand and model you have, so how would we even know if the camera's "pup up flash activate" anything?

Little tipo for ya: in doing macro work, one of the EASIEST ways to connect two or three flashes are flash connecting cords, of one type, or another. NIKON has made its very own, specific connectors for decades. They are fricking amazing. They connect two Nikon flashes, port-to-port AND allow shoe-mount triggering of one flash, OR, off-camera corded triggering, OR slace triggering of both conencted flashes. Want to add a third or fourth flash? Again...cords.

Flashzebra.com

Long, cheap, 10- and 20-foot PC connecting cords are also useful. On EVERY single shoot I go on where I take flash gear, I back it up with.....a ZIpLOck bag that has a 20-foot PC cord, and in the car I keep a Nikon SC-17 TTL connecting cord..which by the way, ALSO connects male-to-female to my SC-28 cord, so I can fire a flash from quite a ways away, using TTL flash control on one, OR TWO daisy-chained Nikon flashes.

Here's the deal: if two flashes ar within one foot or so of one another, a standard, short PC - to - PC connecting cord is the simplest, easiest, cheapest way to reliably trigger two flashes using only ONE truggering method. Going back to the 1980's, I have rigged ONE slave to a flash, then rubber-banded a second flash to it, and connected the two with a $1.99 PC cord.

Everybody wants cheap triggers. They are out there. aiting to be bought, and eventually malfunction, go dead, stop working, or mis-fire.

FlashZebra.com.

Pst Script: OMG--in the time it took me to write the above, there have been a flurry of NEW posts, back and forth. I give up. I own Pocket Wizards, a VERY expensive 1990's radio remote, and I have a BAG FULL OF PC cords of a zillion types, plus some Nikon TTL cords...I'm not sure exactly what the OP wants to fire: two or three flashes. Whatever--my vote goes to HARD_WIRED connections on multi-flash cause the **** just WORKS when fired that way. As Braineack mentioned, his low-cost triggers, which are fairly new, are already exhibiting sketchy behavior. I'm done updating on this . I have ZERO experince with cheaper triggers: I worked with cords for 20_ years or so, then went to radio, then PW's. Good luck, and hope you get it figured out,.

 

[Life]

Amazon.com : Yongnuo YN-560 II Speedlight Flash for Canon and Nikon. GN58. : On Camera Shoe Mount Flashes : Camera & Photo I've been looking at / for flashes and this one caught my eye. I've done research, and like what I see, BUT. It is an all manual flash, I know what part of that means, but not 100%. #1: Will this flash work if I mount it on my bracket, Amazon.com : Neewer® CN-160 (L-Shape Bracket) : Camera & Photo #2: It being manual, and it would work on that bracket, do I use my pop up flash to activate this yongnuo flash? Thanks guys!

I JUST re-read the original post really carefully. You mentioned the POP-UP flash. ANd then using a Yongy flash off-camera, on a bracket. ANd then, LATER, you introduced the ideo that the on-camea hot shoe has a THIRD FLASH in it? or a "macro flash"? Not sure why you are so surprised this thread got derailed. You also failed to mention what CAMERA brand and model you have, so how would we even know if the camera's "pup up flash activate" anything?

Little tipo for ya: in doing macro work, one of the EASIEST ways to connect two or three flashes are flash connecting cords, of one type, or another. NIKON has made its very own, specific connectors for decades. They are fricking amazing. They connect two Nikon flashes, port-to-port AND allow shoe-mount triggering of one flash, OR, off-camera corded triggering, OR slace triggering of both conencted flashes. Want to add a third or fourth flash? Again...cords.

Flashzebra.com

Long, cheap, 10- and 20-foot PC connecting cords are also useful. On EVERY single shoot I go on where I take flash gear, I back it up with.....a ZIpLOck bag that has a 20-foot PC cord, and in the car I keep a Nikon SC-17 TTL connecting cord..which by the way, ALSO connects male-to-female to my SC-28 cord, so I can fire a flash from quite a ways away, using TTL flash control on one, OR TWO daisy-chained Nikon flashes.

Here's the deal: if two flashes ar within one foot or so of one another, a standard, short PC - to - PC connecting cord is the simplest, easiest, cheapest way to reliably trigger two flashes using only ONE truggering method. Going back to the 1980's, I have rigged ONE slave to a flash, then rubber-banded a second flash to it, and connected the two with a $1.99 PC cord.

Everybody wants cheap triggers. They are out there. aiting to be bought, and eventually malfunction, go dead, stop working, or mis-fire.

FlashZebra.com.

I was onyl able to skin fast because I have to go somewhere, but I just want to say this, and i'll edit my post and respond to the rest later after I really read it correctly. My camera is right under my name, and i've told everyone my model. And others have also posted my camera in this thread.. But anyways i'll get back to the rest later, thanks.

 

[Dao]

Life, based on what I read, you did sound quite rule. Of course, that made not be your intention, but it appears to be that way. Please understand that people were trying to help even if their solution may not work for you.

So back to your question. Are you trying to get 2 flashes fire at the same time while one flash is on the hotshoe and then other one is mounted on the flash bracket?

If that is the case, you can use a optical slave for the one that mount on the bracket if you are planning to use it indoor. (pre-flash may cause problem).

OR you can get this

FlashZebra.com: Off Camera iTTL Cord for Nikon — 3 Foot Coiled Cord (Item #0244)

One end put on the hotshoe and then piggy back the macro flash on it. So the macro flash sit on top of the cable end which attached to the hot shoe. For the other end of the cable, just connected with the other flash.

 

[Dao]

For optical slave

FlashZebra.com: Optical Slave — In Hotshoe Mount (Item #0129)

When it see a flash, it will trigger the flash that mounted on it.

Edit: Not 100% is this optical slave will work with the flash you mentioned, if you want to go with this route, be sure to ask the company who sell the optical slave and make sure.

 

[WayneF]

For optical slave

FlashZebra.com: Optical Slave — In Hotshoe Mount (Item #0129)

When it see a flash, it will trigger the flash that mounted on it.

Edit: Not 100% is this optical slave will work with the flash you mentioned, if you want to go with this route, be sure to ask the company who sell the optical slave and make sure.

The YN-560 flash mentioned has such a slave already built into it, called S1 slave mode, for standalone use.

This has to be about the worst thread here.

 

[ORourkeK]

It boggles my mind that anyone tries to help you. The amount of immaturity that comes from your posts is insane. People were trying to help you. Generally, if someone mentions something I have never heard of before, I Google it to get an idea of what it is before I continue. That way I am not completely ignorant as to what it is or does. Then if I have further questions after tying to understand it, I will ask. That doesn't mean we are telling you to Google the entire topic, just some of the suggestions that come from it. If people keep trying to help you and you aren't even willing to take your time to understand it before throwing the suggestion away, then you will never get proper instruction. I saw that your age was brought up in a previous post after you started giving people attitude. I believe someone used your age as an excuse for your immaturity. My thoughts on this is... if you are old enough to use a community forum, then you should be able to show some restraint before firing unnecessary remarks off. Regardless of what you believe, you are very rude and have been called out on it a few times in the short month that you have been on the site. If you decide to calm down and find yourself able to partake in conversations without flipping out on people, good for you. If not, I will just start skipping over your posts.

 

[Dao]

For optical slave

FlashZebra.com: Optical Slave — In Hotshoe Mount (Item #0129)

When it see a flash, it will trigger the flash that mounted on it.

Edit: Not 100% is this optical slave will work with the flash you mentioned, if you want to go with this route, be sure to ask the company who sell the optical slave and make sure.

The YN-560 flash mentioned has such a slave already built into it, called S1 slave mode, for standalone use.

This has to be about the worst thread here.

Great, if that is the case, the YN-560 should fire along with the other flash without adding anything (indoor of course)

 

[Designer]

Here is my issue. If I keep spending money on the flash gun, then on cords, and so on, it really adds up.

Welcome to photography.

 

[Designer]

I only read the first page, but Derrel's response is the correct one.

Up to the point where he informed us that what he was intending to was walk around with the flash while it is not connected to the camera.

Then everything changed.