Print vs. Slide

Dave:

My apologies! So here's some further information and a story.

I am not certain that I can provide you will all of the "details" you might wish to know or need, but I will share more of what I've learned and experienced over the years.

1. My "old" Leitz Pradovit N-24 projector, which I purchased used and used my old Kodak Carousel 750H as a trade, had a lamp filament adjustment screw on the left side of the projector - as the projector was facing the screen.

As you may or may not know, Leitz was world renown - and still is - for the manufacture of superb microscopes - something that they did decades prior to Oskar Barnack's invention of the prototype Leica. (LEItz CAmera).

In viewing through a microscope and especially, when doing photomicroscopy, one of the things that needs to be done first is to "columnate" the light source. (I think I am using the correct term.) I will not describe the whole process, but basically one had to make certain the that light emerging from the bottom of the microscope was "centered" to provide even illuminatation all the way through the slide and thence to the optics of the miscroscope and also to the film.

FYI - I worked for some time as a Staff Photographer at the University of Illinois College of Medicine - Peoria (Illinois) campus and had the privilege of working with a $35,000 (decades ago prices) Zeiss Photomicroscope III. Not knowing anything about photomicroscopy, I obtained Kodak's publication "Photography through the Microscope" and spent hours - including many unpaid overtime - learning the art of photomicroscopy, developing B & W and Ektachrome films to eventually come to a high standard of producing consistent results.

In the process, I found out that the exposure metering system in this fine new Zeiss microscope was way off; the illumination diaphram at the bottom light source was defective; that the flash unit was disfunctional; that the microscope needed some other minor adjustments; and the poor service (not Zeiss) of the company in Chicago that sold the microscope to the School of Medicine in Peoria. But that's another interesting and long story.

At any rate, the Leitz Pradovit N-4, the Pradovit Color 150 and the Pradovit Color 250 - and I suspect newer models, all have an adjustment screw to make certain the the light source is centered to provide even illumination on the slide and through the optics.

All one had to do is to cut a nice 2 X 2 inch piece of cardboard and drill about a 1/4 inch hole in the absolute center. If you purchased your Leitz projector new, this centering slide came with the projector.

Then one just placed the centering slide in the slide tray, loaded it in the projector, and turned the projector on. Then one placed the (milky white - for want of a better description) dust cap over the lens and made certain that the projection lens was turned all the way back into the projector.

In this process, the centering slide produce a "double" image of the filament of the projection lamp on to the lens cap. In my old N-24 Leitz Pradovit - using a CYN lamp, the image would look something like this if it wasn't centered.


(Well, I tried providing a diagram, but it doesn't work, when I previewed it.)


One simply turned the lamp filament adjustment screw ever so slightly in either direction to make certain that the top and bottom images of the filaments were aligned - centered. A very short process that only needed to be repeated, if the lamp burned out and needed replacement.

I know that projectors made by Kodak, Sawyer's, Bell & Howell, Airquipt, Pentax, etc. never had a lamp filament centering device to insure even illumination of the slide. Perhaps, other European projectors - Kindermann or Rollei, for example - might have had them, but I've only seen these projectors and haven't used them.

2. At one time, Leitz made a "test" slide, which include a very nice "color wheel" in the center, a double (top and bottom) very long grey scale at the bottom center, and an array of other means by which to compare the image quality, sharpness, corner to corner luminosity of Leitz projectors.

This "test" slide - which is, unfortunately, no longer available - came in handy in other ways as well. For example, it provided a means to insure that your projector was exactly perpendicular to the screen on which you were showing your images. If the test slide projected a sharp image at the top of the screen, somewhat sharp in the center, and out of focus on the bottom, you quickly realized that the projector was not perpendicular to the screen and made the necessary adjustments. I still use my "test slide" - it's the first slide shown - when I show (somewhat rare these days - but that may change) slides

I obtained a Leitz Pradovit "test slide" for use when I was the Staff Photographer at the School of Medicine in Peoria. It came in very handy to insure proper exposure and developing times for B & W films and/or for color slides - at times we did a lot of duplicate slide shooting and processing for the medical staff/professors at the College of Medicine. It also came in handy when we made Cibachrome prints - on few occasions - for the "Pathology Boards" (4 X 8 foot masonite boards, painted blue, which held, prints, diagrams, words, etc. showing the progress of a disease) that the school's educational department did for the medical students.

3. If my memory serves me correctly, my old Pradovit N-24, the Pradovit Color 150 and the Pradovit Color 250 (all now older models) constructed the focusing or auto-focusing mechanism in such a manner that the slide chamber moves rather than the lens. Obviously, such engineering makes for more rapid (and perhaps, accurate) focusing and less eye strain on the viewers - over a long period of time - the projection of several hundred slides in an evening.

4. The slide chamber on Leitz projector is designed to keep the slide cooler than other projectors thus eliminating or greatly minimizing the "popping" in and out of focus that can happen when a 'cool' slide hits a warm or hot chamber. One of our customer's - a Professor of Art at Knox College in Galesburg, IL deliberately used Leitz projectors because (1) she could leave the same (art) slide in for very long periods of time and (2) the projector wouldn't damage her slides in anyway whatsoever.

5. Of course, there are other important factors as well - beginning with the optics of the condensors and Leica projection lenses - the most famous of which is the 90mm Colorplan. If you come across an old Leitz Pradovit N-24, you'll find out that it weighs a ton. Well, not literally, of course, but it is much heavier than the Kodak Carousel. My Pradovit Color 150 is a little lighter, but still manufacture with more than durable materials - beginning with the housing.

6. I hesitate to "advise" you on what Leitz Pradovit projector to seek for possible purchase, but I will offer the following.

Although the Pradovit N-24 is still an excellent purchase, I am not certain of the availability of CYN projection lamps. If interested, you should, of course, email Dave Elwell of the Leica Camera repair dept. and inquire if they still have the quartz halogen lamp conversion kit still available, which will allow you to use the FCS bulb. At one time, I found 18 FCS lamps and paid a mere $12.00 for the lot - so I have more than enough lamps to last me the rest of my life.
So if you're currently constrained by budget, I might opt for a used, but excellent condition, Leitz Pradovit N-24, but be certain to check with the Leitz repair department first for the conversion kit.

If you're moderately constrained by a budget, I'd seek out the Pradovit Color 250 - not because you intend to project images in a very large auditorium, but because you may wish to have a slightly brighter light. The Pradovit Color 150 produces a much brighter and whiter light on the screen and is very well suited for home use.

Both the N-24 and the Pradovit Color 150 and 250 projectors used the same type (diameter) lenses and are, therefore, interchangeable. In addition to the 90mm Colorplan, I would also opt for a 120mm Leitz Projection lens - I believe the name is Elmaron - it's been a long time since I've looked at mine. The 120mm lens will simply give you a little more distance between the projector and a 50 X 50 inch screen.

Sometime later and I don't know when, Leitz redesigned both its projectors and its lens - so I am not certain as to whether the lenses for 1500 and 2500 series projectors - also a nice buy these days - are compatible with the older projectors. You'll have to do your homework in this area. On the point, members of the Leica Historical Society and/or Leica Camera should be of great help.

Hope this additional information is useful.

Again, my apologies for the mis-interpretation.

Bill
 
Thanks, Bill. That is the type of information I was looking for. I actually bought a Rollei 250 AFS a little while ago after being dissatisfied with the Kodak. It is definitely an improvement over the Kodak (5200) although the results I get, particularly in terms of uniform focus across the slide, aren't as flawless as you describe so I have been wondering if it's the projector design, the lens, or my viewing setup that are the culprit. Your comments give me some things to think about and check out. The Rollei uses a 250W bulb, but I'll have to check if it has an adjustment screw like you describe. I wonder if the Colorplan lens would fit it, the design seems to be similar to the modern Leitz (R150?) projector.

I'll have to investigate, and perhaps at some point look into something like a Pradovit Color 250. For now budget certainly requires that I try to make the most of what I already have.

Dave
 
Dave:

Just in case it's within your budget, here's a current Pradovit Color 250 being offered on Eay.

I've cut and pasted the item's description below, since it will provide you with additional information that might useful or helpful in your endeavors.

As for his statement that a lot of these (older) projectors show up for auction have a defective autofocus, I am not certain that I would stand behind that, since I was still working at Peoria Camera Shop when these models, the Pradovit Color 150 and the Pradovit Color 250 had been introduced and we never had to send one back. Besides, the focus on my Pradovit Color 150 still works very nicely. Nevertheless, it would pay to do your "homework!"

Another alternative is to look for a Leitz "Prado" projector, which were built for home use, but designed primarily for auditorium use. Currently, there are two "newer" units - one without the lens and lens mount on Eay - and an old version of the Leitz Prado. The older version's auction number is # 752699050 and the bid price is currently $10.00.

The only problem with these older Prado's is that the lamp will probably cost you an arm and a leg - i.e. $30.00 to 36.00, if they are still available through a store and/or cheaper on Ebay. I am not certain about the lamp cost and/or availability of the newer Prado model.

As you will note, the Prado projectors used a single slide changer for only two slides. Such an arrangement my not fit your purposes, but it may be an alternative to consider.


Pradovit Color 250 projector

Auction #
7527345629
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Description
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(revised)
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Please read this description thoroughly and clarify any unanswered questions before bidding:

When the first generation of Pradovit Color projectors was introduced, during Leitz's golden years (late 60's, think of M4 and you got the idea!) they were touted "The perfectionist's projector". My personal opinion is that they are THE ONLY widely available laboratory grade automatic projectors ever made. The Pradovit Color 250 was the big gun in the series, introduced later and replaced in 1977/78 by the C-2500 series as the top Leitz projector. The specs: Low voltage (24V) quartz halogen lamp has a low heat/light ratio, yields white light which is the closest to daylight of all incandenscent light sources (less eye fatigue after extended viewing); 250W power yields just under 1000 lumen, more than enough for home use and adequate for auditorium projection (same lamp, EHJ, as the last true Leica slide projector, the Pradovit P2002). Unique to the Pradovit Color and the Pradovit 1500/2XXX projectors is the dual channel cooling: one fan pulls fresh air and pushes it onto the slide stage to keep the slide cool, as well as under the lamp to cool the transformer; the warm air is expelled onto the next slide (in the tray) in order to preheat it through a special duct (lower temperature contrast prevents slide popping). The bulk of the air is drawn inside the lamp housing and is expelled by the second fan after cooling the lamp. Large aspherical lens replaces two spherical ones, increasing light efficiency significantly (two less glass-air surfaces). Cast aluminum chassis, lamp housing cover, metal lens mount. The sturdiest lens mount ever designed! (The lens doesn't move for focusing! The slide does! (Contax fans listen up! Somebody else came up with the "film focusing" idea long before Contax did, but it was not in a camera!) Dimmer switch saves 15% power and doubles lamp life. (on my 6' screen I hardly ever need full illumination) Built-in timer for automatic advance. No slide-no light shutter with slide sensor. Autofocus; focus the first slide by turning the lens and all subsequent slides will be focused automatically (unless the AF is off). Here are some advantages over other projectors: Full illumination of superslides (possible with the later Pradovit 2XXX series ONLY with special condensors and heat filters, which you have to buy separately). Single slide projection possible (try that on the 2000 series!) Built –in self timer (mechanical, control located just under the lens). The Pradovit Color 250 can take all the P mount lenses if fitted with the sleeve (and some of the P2 ones), whereas the next generation (Pradovit Color, C/CA2500/1500) can NOT take the early lenses. Which brings me to the punch line: this particular projector has the early Leitz Colorplan 90mm 1:2.5 lens, which has 5 elements in 4 groups, an absolutelly superb lens; When the newer projectors (starting with the later model Color/Color250/AF were designed, the focusing mechanism (autofocus especially) wouldn't clear the older lens so the lens had to be redesigned for a 42.5mm tube (in the process being cheapened to a 4 element design, so if you have or are considering buying a later Colorplan you basically have a Hektor 2.5 design (itself not to be confused with the currrent Hektor 2.8 which is a 3 element cheapie). Only relatively recently has Leica gone back to a 5 element (Super Colorplan, a lens which costs over $300). At the time, Leitz prized themselves with the large depth of field of the lens, making refocusing between slides almost unnecessary, as long as the mounts were consistent (that is you do not mix glazed with unglazed slides, cardboard with plastic, etc.). A lot of these projectors show up for sale with defective autofocus. The repairs are prohibitive for most of us. So if you buy one of these untested, be prepared to focus by hand on the projector as there is no remote focus capability! There you have it! Can you beat this? Have you thought of precision? The slide is guided in the slide stage on 3 rollers to reduce wear. Every time I use a Kodak Carousel/Ektagraphic, being spoiled by my Leitz projectors, I feel something missing (even if I use the great Schneider Cinelux lenses). It must be the precision with which these things operate. I am sure anybody who has had a chance to use one of these will agree with my opinions expressed here. PLEASE, do not copy this or any of my descriptions for any purpose without my permission. Buyer to pay for shipping. Check out my other auctions for more Leica stuff and other optics for sale.

If you're interested, Leitz also made a 'wide angle' projection lens for both the Prado and Pradovit projectors. One couple who were members of the Peoria Color Camera Club had an old Prado projector with a wide angle lens. They painted their basement walls a nice bright white and used it as a projection screen. Seeing their slides was almost like being in the scene itself. An interesting visual experience. Greater impact than seeing slides on a 50 X 50 or even a 60 X 60 matte white screen.

At any rate, now you have more information than you ever (perhaps) thought possible, but that's what happens when you deal with a conscientious Librarian! ;>)

Best wishes in your photographic endeavors!

Bill
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
This discussion seems to have ended on a technical slide projector note, but if more slide/print opinions are desired, here goes. I started shooting slides about 25 years ago. I liked projecting them and the color was better than anything I was getting in prints. Over the years, as the kids have gotten less interested in watching slides and as the carousels have taken over a hall closet, I have considered the possibility of switching to print film. I stay with slides for the great color, the continuity of having all my pictures in the same medium, and the New Years Eve recap of the year that the family still shows up for.
 
Joe:

Thanks for the "thumbs up" with regard to slides. There's nothing better than seeing wonderful colors, fine details, etc. projected onto a nice screen. For that reason, I am returning to slides, while Sue can continue to persue prints.

Bill
 
I read with great interest all that magnificent information about the Leitz projector. It rekindled my interest in my old hobby. Thank you that information was very helpful!

I just dug up my Leitz Pradovit n24, with the 90mm Planar, so I could look at the several k slides of 30 and more years ago. It had not been out of the box in 20 year and it worked after some trouble with the fan got resolved. Amazingly, the fourty year old rubber belt is still good.

All the mechanics, such as the remote slide changer, still work fine.

I was also happily surprised that the quality of the slides seemed at least still as good as thirty years ago. Storing them in those almost airtight boxes, I used to buy at Sears, must have contributed to that.

It still has the original tube like lamp in it. I compared its projection quality of this Pradovit with an Ektagraph projector and quite obviously the Pradovit is "spectacularly" better.

I wonder if you or someone could help me with some questions:

How can one obtain a Leica conversion kit for that halogen type lamp fitting you were talking about? Although the lamp is virtual new, it is still the old four pin type, and I never laid in a bunch of spares. They did cost a fortune even 25 years ago.

If I will ever have to replace the belt, I have no clue how to dismount the top of the projector. Does anyone now where to find the first screw or whatever is needed to get to it?

Thank you!

Bernard



wharrison said:
Dave:

If you carefully re-read my posting (# eight) with my comments on Leica projectors, you will (1) find that I did not make use of the word "acceptable" and (2) that I provided you and others reading this discussion post with more than sufficient "details" as to why Leitz projectors are better.

You can, of course, do your own "homework", make the comparisons yourself and come to your own conclusions regarding the matter of "details".

One test is to simply turn on a Carousel projector w/o a slide in the chamber in a darkroom and enjoy the rather slight yellowish light on a white surface screen and you might even see a little light fall off at the corners. You can then wonder if there might be some color shift in your projected slide(s) and/or whether or not you might be seeing the best possible images of your photographic efforts, i.e. slides.

Decades ago, I noted the difference and traded my Kodak Carousel projector for a used Pradovit N-4 the previous model of the Pradovit Color 150. Even after all of these years, Leitz still has the conversion lamp kit available to "upgrade" the projection lamp from a bulb to a 150 watt quartz-halogen lamp. Not that I have a "newer" Pradovit Color 150, I gave my older, but still excellent Pradovit N-24 to my daughter and her husband along with the lamp conversion kit and some FCS lamps, which I had found inexpensively on Ebay.

I think far too many people on these various photographic posting sites think that only those who are extremely wealthy and/or have a huge excess of funds available from time to time are the only ones who purchased Leitz/Leica cameras, lenses, etc. And an equal number of these same people can't image a person doing a little planning, research, and budgeting to be able to afford a Leica. FYI - my Leica M-4 was purchased on a time pay plan - a little over $50.00 a month for a year - offered by the camera shop that I ended up working at for a number of years. And at the time, I was making a little over $5.00 an hour.

Your response to my discussion brings up an interesting and final point:

Historically, how many photographic manufacturers have made projectors and/or enlargers of the same quality as their cameras and/or lenses.

Shouldn't you (and others) be asking yourselves: where are the current or older Canon, Pentax, Olympus, Nikon, Miranda, Yashica, Zeiss, etc. enlargers or projectors???

I would think that it would be more intelligent to see what we can learn from one another in these postings instead of spending time writing up subdued barbs.

Hope this added information is useful.

Bill
 
Such a nice discussion with lots of experience.

Does anybody have experience with Schneider Cinelux 150 f/2.8 Especially compared to leica glass.
 
Is slide film a good choice for beginners to photography? Such as, do you need to do anything complex to use slide film?
 
as was said above a while back the exposure latitude is not quite as good as print film and you must expose with complete and utter accuracy (almost).
also, slides are much less forgiving to focus, it can be embarrassing to find your whole family looking at your spectacul photo large and realising it's out of focus.
that said, the colour produced by slides is so magnificent that it's worth it, thus people still use them.
if you are a complete beginner to photography i would suggest staying away from the slide film... unless price is not an issue, in which case just be prepared to live with a few roles of dissappointing results.
again i say "that said"... with a very good slr with a great autofocus and a stong auto mode, it will be easily possible to shoot some great pictures (technically) first time around. i say to anyone, give it a try and see if you like it~!
 
keller said:
Is slide film a good choice for beginners to photography? Such as, do you need to do anything complex to use slide film?
You only need to get the exposure right. In answer to your question, it's my opinion "no" it's not good for beginners. I can barely shoot with the stuff and I hate oversaturated portions of an image. I am probably the only person here who has been consistently and bitterly disappointed with Velvia to the point where I tell everyone it's crap.

IMO, slide film's annoying, difficult and does not produce pleasing results.

I am an army of one. :lmao:

Rob
 
Rob probably has a camera with a broken meter. ;)

If you learn how to meter properly and take your time to make sure everything falls info 5 stop range, you won't be disappointed. But you are bound to spoil your first few rolls though, so keep detailed notes as to how you metered and what exposure was.

On the other hand you have color neg film, which doesn't train you to control exposure much. Or you can shoot BW and develop it yourself... which is pretty much the best and most economical way to start out. And you can see the results directly on film.

Or if you can afford it, spring for a digital of some kind. Make sure it has spot or partial metering and a histogram - then you're set.
 
Bernard:

1. Open the lid to the slide tray area of your Pradovit N-24 and just behind the slide chamber area, you'll see a metal piece along the inside of of the tray chamber; pull it away from the body of the project and the lid accessing the inside of the projector will open up.

2. If you send an email to Dave Elwell of Leica Camera

[email protected]

and request information about prices and instructions for obtaining and putting in a new rubber belt and the FCS quartz halogen lamp conversion kit, I am certain that you will get a reply within a short period of time.

I am almost 99.9% certain that the conversion kite for the Pradovit N-24 projector takes the FCS, but be certain to ask Dave about that as well.

3. If you do a search on ebay.com for the FCS (or whatever the lamp may be) lamp, I have no doubts that you will find some available at a very reasonable price. You may have to search several times in order to come up with a "hit" of a good price or prices. A few years ago, I found a dozen or more of these lamps for the very reasonable price of around $18.00. A bargain to be sure.

Hope this additional information is useful.

Bill
 
Follow the money.
Buyers of photos required the very best, they dictated the rules. They required slides.
Why do non sellers of photos shoot slides? I would not unless for experimental purposes. I have and found it to be no practical value or advantage.
 
DocFrankenstein said:
If you learn how to meter properly and take your time to make sure everything falls info 5 stop range, you won't be disappointed. But you are bound to spoil your first few rolls though, so keep detailed notes as to how you metered and what exposure was.


its quite funny. i dont know how to meter properly. how do you meter properly?if you dont mind me asking.

and the whole note thing.....photogs keep telling me to track all my exposures(write it down in a log book). i'm not sure if that is what you're talking about but how does that work? i dont really know how to do that..


sorry for the ignorance:confused:
and thanks.
 

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