Question about focus and F stop and ISO and Shutter speed, so pretty much everything.

[Toshanda]

So I got the new to me Tamron 70-200 f2.8 g1. and I cannot seem to get a good centered focus on my D7200... Not sure if it is the lens or the operator. I did some agility trial photos, files too large to attach but linked below.

Microsoft OneDrive

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Microsoft OneDrive

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Microsoft OneDrive

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Microsoft OneDrive

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Seems like the camera always wants to focus behind the "target". Was trying to shoot on f2.8, with 800 and 6000ISO.

Is there something I can do to "fix" that or is it just a matter of practice and trial/error sort of thing???

Thank you very much in advance.

 

[Jeff15]

Are you using autofocus and what speed are you shooting at.??

 

[Toshanda]

Are you using autofocus and what speed are you shooting at.??

Yes on AF and I tried pretty much anything from 200 to about 1600...

 

[Jeff15]

What about the focus pattern..?

 

[GDHLEWIS]

If the focus pattern isn't an issue have you tried focus fine tuning? Had to do that on a couple of lenses on my old D7200

 

[Nikon photographer]

I had the same problem with my D7000, mainly with non Nikon lenses, every Sigma lens I had needed to be fine tuned, it's easy enough to do, I'm sure you'll find a few articles on the Internet that will show you how to do this.

 

[SquarePeg]

Former 7200 owner. Agree with the crowd. Focus fine tuning is the first thing I’d check for non Nikon lenses.

 

[mrca]

What aperture is giving you problems? Is it shooting wide open or close to that? If so, try a single focus point focus, put camera on a tripod and place the focus point on where you want focus. If you are using multiple focus points on shallow dof, you camera doesn't know where you want focus. Personally, I focus and meter through one spot.

 

[Toshanda]

What about the focus pattern..?

I tried D21, d9 and center point. with AF-c.

 

[Toshanda]

What aperture is giving you problems? Is it shooting wide open or close to that? If so, try a single focus point focus, put camera on a tripod and place the focus point on where you want focus. If you are using multiple focus points on shallow dof, you camera doesn't know where you want focus. Personally, I focus and meter through one spot.

just 2.8 and played around with ISO and Shutter after that.

 

[Toshanda]

So I tried fine tuning and this is what I came up with. Almost looks like it is focusing waaaay to far on the 0 mark and not enough centre on -20. Anything I can do further to adjust it???

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

 

[Strodav]

The D7200 has a Live View mode. You'll see the Lv symbol inside the still / video switch to the lower right. Lv uses contrast detection for auto focus where the viewfinder uses phase detection. Contrast detection is slower, but more accurate than phase detection AF. So, mount your camera and lens up on a tripod pointing at a still scene with some texture and contrast (I use colorful wooly dog toys, yes I have golden retrievers), set it to say, 200mm at f/2.8. Use the timer or remote release, reasonable shutter speed like 1/250, make sure VR is off on the lens while on a tripod at whatever ISO is needed to get the exposure right, but don't go over 400, but 100 is best if possible so try and get enough light. I usually do these things outside on the back porch during daylight. Go to Lv, push the shutter button down 1/2 way and you'll see the red focus box turn to green showing you it's in focus. Now use the remote trigger or timer and take the shot. Repeat with the viewfinder (phase detection). Download into your post processing software and compare the two. The Lv shot will be the sharpest the lens is capable of. Compare it to the viewfinder shot. If the Lv shot is sharper, you can benefit from fine tuning. If they are the same, then fine tuning is not necessary. If the Lv shot is less sharp than the viewfinder shot, then you did something wrong.

Run the test to check the lens, but you probably do not have a lens issue, but a camera settings / technique issue. I took a couple of your images and ran them through Topaz Sharpen AI and the model that gave the best result was the motion blur model, not the out of focus model. I would recommend AFC mode (definitely not AFA mode) and 9 focus points along with CH mode, so take several shots catching the entire jump. Make sure to keep the dog's eyes right in the middle of the focus points, so your panning skills are key. I would recommend a monopod to keep the camera as steady as possible. Getting your shutter speed up from 1/800 sec to 1/1000 sec could help with camera shake.

I love my D7200 and have the G2 version of your lens, which I have used for birding. I have gotten very good results with the combination. Let me know if you'd like me to post the pictures I processed in Topas Sharpen AI.

 

[Toshanda]

The D7200 has a Live View mode. You'll see the Lv symbol inside the still / video switch to the lower right. Lv uses contrast detection for auto focus where the viewfinder uses phase detection. Contrast detection is slower, but more accurate than phase detection AF. So, mount your camera and lens up on a tripod pointing at a still scene with some texture and contrast (I use colorful wooly dog toys, yes I have golden retrievers), set it to say, 200mm at f/2.8. Use the timer or remote release, reasonable shutter speed like 1/250, make sure VR is off on the lens while on a tripod at whatever ISO is needed to get the exposure right, but don't go over 400, but 100 is best if possible so try and get enough light. I usually do these things outside on the back porch during daylight. Go to Lv, push the shutter button down 1/2 way and you'll see the red focus box turn to green showing you it's in focus. Now use the remote trigger or timer and take the shot. Repeat with the viewfinder (phase detection). Download into your post processing software and compare the two. The Lv shot will be the sharpest the lens is capable of. Compare it to the viewfinder shot. If the Lv shot is sharper, you can benefit from fine tuning. If they are the same, then fine tuning is not necessary. If the Lv shot is less sharp than the viewfinder shot, then you did something wrong.

Run the test to check the lens, but you probably do not have a lens issue, but a camera settings / technique issue. I took a couple of your images and ran them through Topaz Sharpen AI and the model that gave the best result was the motion blur model, not the out of focus model. I would recommend AFC mode (definitely not AFA mode) and 9 focus points along with CH mode, so take several shots catching the entire jump. Make sure to keep the dog's eyes right in the middle of the focus points, so your panning skills are key. I would recommend a monopod to keep the camera as steady as possible. Getting your shutter speed up from 1/800 sec to 1/1000 sec could help with camera shake.

I love my D7200 and have the G2 version of your lens, which I have used for birding. I have gotten very good results with the combination. Let me know if you'd like me to post the pictures I processed in Topas Sharpen AI.

So I used the Lv mode and this what happened...

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

This one looks actually pretty good...

 

[Toshanda]

The D7200 has a Live View mode. You'll see the Lv symbol inside the still / video switch to the lower right. Lv uses contrast detection for auto focus where the viewfinder uses phase detection. Contrast detection is slower, but more accurate than phase detection AF. So, mount your camera and lens up on a tripod pointing at a still scene with some texture and contrast (I use colorful wooly dog toys, yes I have golden retrievers), set it to say, 200mm at f/2.8. Use the timer or remote release, reasonable shutter speed like 1/250, make sure VR is off on the lens while on a tripod at whatever ISO is needed to get the exposure right, but don't go over 400, but 100 is best if possible so try and get enough light. I usually do these things outside on the back porch during daylight. Go to Lv, push the shutter button down 1/2 way and you'll see the red focus box turn to green showing you it's in focus. Now use the remote trigger or timer and take the shot. Repeat with the viewfinder (phase detection). Download into your post processing software and compare the two. The Lv shot will be the sharpest the lens is capable of. Compare it to the viewfinder shot. If the Lv shot is sharper, you can benefit from fine tuning. If they are the same, then fine tuning is not necessary. If the Lv shot is less sharp than the viewfinder shot, then you did something wrong.

Run the test to check the lens, but you probably do not have a lens issue, but a camera settings / technique issue. I took a couple of your images and ran them through Topaz Sharpen AI and the model that gave the best result was the motion blur model, not the out of focus model. I would recommend AFC mode (definitely not AFA mode) and 9 focus points along with CH mode, so take several shots catching the entire jump. Make sure to keep the dog's eyes right in the middle of the focus points, so your panning skills are key. I would recommend a monopod to keep the camera as steady as possible. Getting your shutter speed up from 1/800 sec to 1/1000 sec could help with camera shake.

I love my D7200 and have the G2 version of your lens, which I have used for birding. I have gotten very good results with the combination. Let me know if you'd like me to post the pictures I processed in Topas Sharpen AI.

This is two shots with the same settings, f2.8, ISO 400, 250. same camera position. LV seems like it is on point and the viewfinder is back focused again...

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

 

[ac12]

Some thoughts:

What is your experience level?
Is this the first time you have shot this event?
If you shot it before, what was your results?

Quote
> Was trying to shoot on f2.8, with 800 and 6000ISO.
Did you mean 1/800 sec shutter speed?
You want to be faster than 1/500 sec. Preferably up at 1/1000.

Are your pics FULL frame or cropped and centered on the dog?
I am trying to determine WHERE the AF point was when the camera fired.
Did you MISS putting the AF point on the dog, and had the AF point on the background?
Following a fast moving subject is difficult, especially when quickly switching from subject A to subject B.
When I shoot sports, I have a LOT of pics where the focus is of the background, because I missed getting the AF point ONTO the subject, instead it was on the background.

AF limitation. AF needs contrast to focus. It has difficulty focusing on mono-color subjects.
And I see that the dogs have large single color patches or are mono-colored.

If you are shifting from dog A to dog B in different parts of the arena, and this is the first shot of dog B, it could be that the lens is still focusing on dog B when the shutter fired.
When I shoot volleyball, I often have that problem when shifting from player A to player B, and immediately firing. Frame 1 is usually OOF, but frame 2 and on are in focus.
But with another lens (Tamron 17-50/2.8), the lens won't be in focus until frame 3 to 5. The AF motor is slower.

Another thought is a prefocusing issue.

It looks like you may have prefocused on the far side support stand.
But the dog is closer to you.
When the dog went through, the lens is still focused on the support stand on the far side of the dog.
If you prefocus, you have to prefocus where the dog will be, not behind the dog.