Ready for the next level - hobby photography with Nikon D5000

[NORTHERNGAL]

Hello!

I have a D5000 that I purchased a few years back for personal use, but over the last 1.5 years have begun taking photos for friends and family. Mostly lifestyle, family, pet and outdoor photography with natural lighting. I've taken photography courses years ago, but most of what I do now is self taught. I've been able to get by with my current stock of lenses (Nikkor 35mm, 50mm, kit lens, 55-200mm) but come away from my shoots feeling dissatisfied as the images I visualize aren't happening with my current equipment. I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to a new, better body and perhaps add to my stock of lenses. I find myself using my 50mm (1.8) the most often and am looking for something that would allow me a wider view with the same depth of field, and perhaps the option to zoom. I have up to $2000 that I'd feel comfortable spending on an upgrade.

Any suggestions for a new body and perhaps a new lens? I'm looking at the Nikon D800 as a possible option...

Thanks in advance.

 

[Designer]

Before you make that purchase, why not post an example here so others can see. IOW: perhaps it's not the camera but lighting (for example).

 

[NORTHERNGAL]

Great idea! I'll post a few from my shoot this morning. One sec...

 

[vintagesnaps]

What is it that you feel you can't do with the equipment you have now? or that you visualize but don't see in your photos? I mean the questions more as something to think about before you get into the expense of more equipment.

 

[NORTHERNGAL]

Great idea! I'll post a few from my shoot this morning. One sec...

Here are a few that I am, overall, satisfied with. I had to do some colour correction but that was all.



These ones feel pretty blah to me. The last two are clearly overexposed, but I still feel like they would have been crappy shots.

I am looking for more vibrancy, clarity, and more background blur/depth of field (excuse me, the term is alluding me right now!), and the kind of "glow" that you see in professional photography. I apologize for my lack of knowledge of specific terms... clearly I should start by hitting the books a little more.




Hope that helps... let me know if I can provide any further details.

Here are a few that didn't make the cut/ didn't come out as I'd hoped.

 

[KmH]

I am assuming your lenses are - AF-S 35 mm f/1.8G, AF-S 50 mm f/1.8G, AF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6G, and AF-S 55-200 mm f/3.5-5.6G

The D5000 is fine. Consider upgrading your lenses first.

The lenses you have don't have the sharpness and optical quality for the resolution a D800 has.

Lenses for the D800 would be a well cared for used (about $1500) Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor

and a well cared for used (about $2200) Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens For Nikon Digital SLR Cameras

 

[Derrel]

You know what I see in these? I see the deep depth of field/lack of true selective focus, that is typical of smaller-format camera photos made in sunlight level lighting with consumer-type lenses. I also see very tricky lighting for the less than very skilled shooter; working in tall trees, or around them, in backlighting, or dappled sunlighted conditions is made easier with the newer-sensor Nikon cameras that approach 14-EV dynamic range, **if** you know how to properly meter, and expose and compose, and then exactly how to post-process RAW files.

This kind of open-woodsy scene demands very careful, specific working methods. You have very bright highlights in some of these. And those do not look good. This kind of lighting condition is very demanding on the backgrounds, and also on *exactly* where the people are placed, and where the light source is, and which direction they are angled, in relation to the light. You can used on-camera flash as fill light and expose more for the backgrounds; you can use off-camera flash and use the sunlight as a rim light or back-light; you can use the high sun as a main light; you can move into total shade, and watch the backgrounds for hot spots and compose so there are none; you can use BIG reflectors. In short, there are several ways to work in dappled sunlight--and each method demands near-expert-level camera work to get good pictures.

This kind of lighting is so,so tricky that one forum member, KmH, has often said basically, "Do not shoot in dappled sunlight". On frame 1,2,4, and 5, you handled it pretty well, but not expertly; the colors still look a bit pallid. The problem here is the lighting, and the exposure, and the post-processing. You are really far,far off on the last three photos, which have terribly burnt-out, non-recoverable blown highlight areas, my guess is due to the way the meter reading was determined, and also, due to,well, a lot of dark greenery and some hot, summer light shafts hitting some objects. The in-focus nature of the backgrounds is somewhat due to smallish f/stops, and the small sensor, and the distances and focal lengths these were shot at.

This set would be a headache to shoot. I could shoot here, but it would be a real PITA. A full-frame, modern-sensor Nikon with 13.8 EV of dynamic range, like a D610, and an 85mm 1.8, or better yet, an old 80-200 f/2.8 two-ring, would make some of the backgrounds easier to control. A good, 400 Watt-second off-camera flash in a 45 inch umbrella would help. A big overhead scrim, almost like a picnic gazebo, would be a tool you could use. This is one tough location with that kind of summer lighting! This set was done in a tough,tough set of conditions. You have a HUGE disparity between the brights, and the darks. There are like 5,6 ways to bridge that gap, mostly through the knowledge of how to do it, and not so much the gear per se, but having and using the right flash or fill, and the right exposure method, and then processing RAW data the right way to make the scene dynamic range look "good". These are kind of washed-out color-wise. This is tough, tough light.

 

[Browncoat]

Your first mistake was posting photos. Let the drama begin.

 

[pixmedic]

Your first mistake was posting photos. Let the drama begin.

Nope. This section was specifically made for drama free aspiring pro questions.
Rabble rousers stirring up trouble here will be dealt with swiftly and harshly.

 

[NORTHERNGAL]

Thank you, Keith and Derrel, for your thoughts and feedback! I definitely need to work on my technique; I feel like I've kind of fudged things so far and really need to educate myself on some of the finer details and nuances as you've pointed out, Derrel.

Keith, I appreciate your suggestions on the lenses. I'll check those out.

 

[NORTHERNGAL]

Another question. KmH, could I put your suggested lenses on the D5000? Or would I need the d800 to really see a difference?

Thanks!

 

[Browncoat]

If you're doing mostly portrait work, do yourself a huge favor and pick up a dedicated portrait lens. 35mm and 50mm are okay for environmental portraits, but for those up close and personal moments, you might consider a good 85mm or 105mm lens.

Some advice I wish someone had given me when I was starting out: learn more about off-camera flash. Check out Strobist and Neil van Neikerk. Save some of that cash for a portable speedlight setup and a couple modifiers. Attend a workshop or buy a book on lighting. Quality lighting will make your photos look better than a new camera. When you can learn to combine ambient lighting with flash, you open up new doors.

 

[Tailgunner]

Another question. KmH, could I put your suggested lenses on the D5000? Or would I need the d800 to really see a difference?

Thanks!

My only concern is most of your DX glass is built with internal focusing motors while FX glass does not. FX glass is usually auto focused through a motor built in the body. I can't recall but I don't believe the D5000 comes with an auto focus motor. This is why i opted for the D7100, it comes with a built in auto focus motor...so it will auto focus both DX and FX glass. I then began buying FX specific glass knowing my next body would be FX. Anyhow, if the D500 has a built in auto focus motor for FX glass, you're golden, other wise I would opt for buying a D7100 and either a 17-55mm 2.8 or 24-70mm 2.8. Either set up will put you where you need to be...although a lot of portrait photographers will using the 70-200mm 2.8 VRI/VRII, 80-200mm 2.8 (2 ring), or 85mm 1.8. You will still need to avoid shooting in the middle of the day.

 

[KmH]

Another question. KmH, could I put your suggested lenses on the D5000? Or would I need the d800 to really see a difference?

Thanks!

Yes, and you will see a difference using them on the D5000.
.

 

[KmH]

My only concern is most of your DX glass is built with internal focusing motors while FX glass does not. FX glass is usually auto focused through a motor built in the body.

That is simply not true.
Only the older FX lenses do not have an AF motor in the lens.

AF-S FX lens can only use the AF motor in the lens. AF-S lenses - DX or FX - lack the lens part of the camera to lens mechanical connection needed to use an in the camera AF motor and screw=drive.