Recreate bright even hospital light in studio...

jcskeeter

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Hi All - I have a job coming up that got a little shaken up since it was originally planned.

The shoot was supposed to be in a hospital room with mostly window light and I was just going to bounce a few speed lights off the ceiling for fill.

Unfortunately the client wasn't able to secure a hospital location so now they're building a set and we'll be shooting in a large studio space. 34'X 43' to be exact. With a 20' ceiling. So I'm looking to recreate that clean, bright, flat(ish) hospital look.

This is a shoot I did a while back and I'm looking to replicate this lighting. There was a large window directly cam right, on speed light in the right corner (you can kinda see the bloom) and another speed light cam left. Both pointed at the ceiling.

IMG_9672z.jpg

The slightly trickier part is that I may need to use constant light instead of strobes. (There will be babies and it's easier for them.) I'm still waiting to hear if they're building a false ceiling, which would make things potentially a little easier.

In either lighting case, constant or strobe, I'm thinking of bouncing from overhead with main light sources in an attempt to create a large "window". This is my first time lighting a set like this from scratch so I'm really just looking for any advice. I've probably left out some details so please let me know if more info is needed. Thanks in advance!!
 

tirediron

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First and foremost, lighting a set like this with constant lighting will require a LOT of light and a LOT of expense. Strobes will be MUCH easier. With respect to the issue of the children, I doubt that will be an issue, unless you plan on firing strobes, bare-tube right in their face.

I would start by making the window. A big-ish (as in 48x60) softbox with double diffusion panels should do the trick. Primary lighting would be overhead strobes with double, or even triple diffusion firing down in order to replicate normal shadows. I would use a few small strobes or speedlights as required to fill in any shadow areas, and kick your WB up a little to get a bluer/whiter look.
 
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jcskeeter

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Yes! For sure. Although, I just found out that I'll be sharing the set with a video crew that will be shooting the day before me. I have the option of using the lights that they already have set up which could work out really great! Although I am a little concerned if they will still be bright enough...? But I guess worse case I'll need to bump ISO and I'm sure it won't be that high. Especially with a 5Diii.

I found out that the "set" will be two walls that are 18x12 with an open ceiling.

If I did go with strobes, do you think it would be a little easier to just shoot through a large 6x8 or 8x10 frame with diffusion for the "window"? And maybe just do a shoot through umbrella on the strobe for extra diffusion? Would you do two strobes for that size of a frame. And considering the 18x12 footprint, how many overhead strobes would you consider using?

Thanks so much for your input so far!
 

tirediron

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...If I did go with strobes, do you think it would be a little easier to just shoot through a large 6x8 or 8x10 frame with diffusion for the "window"? And maybe just do a shoot through umbrella on the strobe for extra diffusion? Would you do two strobes for that size of a frame. And considering the 18x12 footprint, how many overhead strobes would you consider using?

Thanks so much for your input so far!
Yep, a diffusion frame & shoot through brolly would definitely be one way to go; I suggested a softbox because I thought it might be a prebuilt option. It depends on the strobes & reflectors, and their distance from the diffusion material. I've had very good results driving a 50" softbox with a single speedlight, but in this case, yes, I would likely be leaning toward two heads. As for your overhead, that's just a matter of math.

Your reflectors should give you a beam-spread angle, and knowing their height, figure out how large that spread is at say 3' above the floor, and mount that number of lights. This is just like lighting an arena.
 

table1349

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How many strobes do you have? You have 20' ceiling, hang your strobes from the ceiling and get flat overhead lighting you would have in a hospital room. Want some natural shadow, then put a strobe at low power off set to one side to simulate window light.
 

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I'd think about checking with them on the strobes if they're bringing in babies to find out if any of them are prone to seizures. Of course I wouldn't think they'd bring babies in from a NICU and am guessing they're going to have 'stand ins'?? healthy babies that parents volunteer to bring in for the shoot.

My background is working with babies and toddlers with delays and I know for kids (not just babies) that have seizures, those can be triggered by flashing lights. I don't know if a strobe would do that or not, but maybe ask before you assume then find out the medical staff says no strobes. Newborns' eyesight isn't fully developed at birth so there may be discomfort with bright lights, but I don't think there's any indication that a camera flash would cause damage to the eyes or vision.
 
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jcskeeter

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Just talked with the Director for the video shoot and found out more details on his lighting. He's planning to light the entire set with Kinos and have one hot light for diffused window blow-out. So I think I'm good! I'll be able to go to the set on Monday after they've set lights and do some test shots. Then I don't shoot until Wednesday. So I'll have a day to scramble something if the lighting isn't going to work.

This is the room and walls they're going to be replicating roughly. So the window will be in some of the shots but it will likely be half covered with curtains and just look like a slightly blown/overcast sky.
Screen Shot 2016-08-10 at 3.21.17 PM.jpg
 
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jcskeeter

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Anyone have experience mixing strobes with Kinos? The Kinos will have daylight bulbs in them. Do you think the temps will be close enough?
 

tirediron

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Anyone have experience mixing strobes with Kinos? The Kinos will have daylight bulbs in them. Do you think the temps will be close enough?
"Close enough" is up to the client, but I'd arrive with a roll of 1/3 CTO and 1/3 CTG, 'cause you KNOW it's not going to be the same!
 

tirediron

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Adding green; CTO to change the Kinos to incandescent and CTG to change the strobes to fluorescent. Hard to guess as to which you will need, maybe one, maybe both, maybe none. I've never tried to light something like this, so I'm just speculating, but knowing that I was dealing with both fluorescent and incandescent I would be prepared to deal with both.
 
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jcskeeter

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Dropped by the set yesterday and it's looking great and I won't need any additional light. Photo are SOC and at ISO 640. Which I'm totally comfortable with. There's also a few floating Kinos that I can use for fill if needed.
 

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