You don't have to have file degradation when editing JPEG. I have completely lossless file editing with my JPEGs. The way to do it (for several good reasons) is to open your JPEG in your photo editor, and immediately convert it (by saving it) to a lossless format such as a .PSD file. Edit from then on as a .PSD file and you'll have no compression loss whatsoever.
I hope this clears the name of JPEGs as far as editing losses go.
JPEG is a lossy compression. Every time you save to it you lose information. There is no such thing as a JPEG without file degradation. Your edits may be lossless, in that the total information is unchanged in the PSD file,but the final image suffers from two passes through the JPEG converter. And your final results will include losses to your edits.
Out of the same camera there is no way that you can blow up the image to anywhere close to the same size you could if you shot in RAW after two JPEG passes.
Also realize that RAW is not a format for the ages. Both Canon and Nikon have released newer versions of their raw processing software that will NOT work with older RAW formats. It's very possible that in the future you upgrade your RAW software and discover that older images you took cannot be processed!
Hence DNG.
And Adobe's Camera Raw still works with just about anything you throw at it.
Most people who shoot in RAW don't keep the files in RAW.
My work flow is something like this:
1. Shoot in RAW
2. Move to RAW processing folder
3. Rename files, apply metadata, sort/rate photos
4. batch convert to DNG move to DNG processing folder
5. Apply various raw format edits and effects (basic contrast, etc.)
6. pick out only very best photos for further work in Photoshop batch everything else to TIFF
6.5 photoshop the ones that will most benefit and convert to TIFF
7. put everything in final resting place folder
I will put no more than 100 or so images on one card because should that card get corrupted, damaged or lost I'm not out 1/2 my wedding images.
Sorry, that's just silly.
Cards are solid state devices. They have very low variance around their MTBF. Track your usage and toss the cards before they get close to failure and you will never have any problems. Or, at least the chances of having a problem will be the same as the chances of having multiple cards fail at the same time.