Studio Shoot

edwarde21

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So yesterday i had my first studio shoot ever. It was amazing i will be posting some picture once I'm done editing them. I had a few problems but i will work to improve i only had one question. I was using 2 alien bees strobes but i couldn't use high speed sync and i wasn't gonna be looking it up while in the shoot. The only reason why I'm asking is because i wanna consider buying a strobe system to use it outdoors. i had the nikon D810 and i had the setting on the camera to be compatible with high speed sync. I have research and i can't find anything really useful. Does the alien bees don't support high speed sync?
 
Alien Bees do NOT support HSS; nor do any other strobes of which I am aware with the possible exception of one of the Profoto (~$1500.00+ per head) lines. Out of curiosity, why, when you have total control over all of the aspects of the shoot, would you want HSS?
 
Alien Bees do NOT support HSS; nor do any other strobes of which I am aware with the possible exception of one of the Profoto (~$1500.00+ per head) lines. Out of curiosity, why, when you have total control over all of the aspects of the shoot, would you want HSS?


The only reason I was asking is because I want to buy a strobe set up to use outdoor specially when shooting during harsh sun light. At the studio I kept it simple and shot at 1/250 ISO 64 at f9-11
 
This is where more light (the more strobed light you have, the more ambient you can knock down), neutral density filters, and BIG modifiers (check out Sun Swatter) come into play.
 
This is where more light (the more strobed light you have, the more ambient you can knock down), neutral density filters, and BIG modifiers (check out Sun Swatter) come into play.


But I seen people do it with one strobe and still keep the background out of focus. Cuz I know if I were to shoot at f2.8 ISO 64 and max speed sync 1/250 my image will be over exposed.
 
HSS requires a light that can pulse at high speeds in sync with the movement across the frame of the very narrow shutter slit cameras use to achieve very fast shutter speeds.

Studio strobes don't do that. You need speedlights with HSS capability to do that, and in order to overpower the sun, depending on circumstances, especially distance to subject and modifiers, you may need more than one.
 
You can hyper sync them...

using tapatalk.
 
This is where more light (the more strobed light you have, the more ambient you can knock down), neutral density filters, and BIG modifiers (check out Sun Swatter) come into play.


But I seen people do it with one strobe and still keep the background out of focus. Cuz I know if I were to shoot at f2.8 ISO 64 and max speed sync 1/250 my image will be over exposed.
It would be, if...
 

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