ticked off!!!

Actually, there is very little difference between a video tripod and a photography tripod. They screw in the same way, and the video tripod is more maneuverable (the head is, anyway) than many photography tripods. So, if you have the mounting plate for that you can use it.

Just a thought from someone who does both...
 
Hi Pimp. I just got back from Wolf Camera (more on that in another thread) and I bought a nice little tabletop tripod.

Here's the link:
http://www.wolfcamera.com/product/291660538.htm?bct=t13031003%3Bcifilm-cameras-and-accessories%3Bcitripods-supports%3Bcitripods-complete

$10 + tax. I'm going to send it to my father-in-law in Poland, as he sometimes has problems with blurry pictures. Whatever you get, make sure the legs are solid, and the head locks solid. Not one of those with the flexible legs. If you get a small tripod like this, make sure you put the single leg directly under the lens, not the opening between the two legs.

The tripod for your family's old video cam will work perfectly. Tripod threads are a standard size, whether they are cheap point & shoot cameras, SLRs or video cameras. You can save a couple bucks by using the one you've already got. If it's too late, the pocket one can go in your camera bag, always at the ready.
 
The problem with video tripods is that they don't flip up easily for verticals, though they work in a pinch if you loosen and rotate the camera.

Are you sure your camera will focus that close? It looks like you are getting really close to the subject. Some of the compact digitals will let you get right up to the lens, but many other lens designs have a minimum focusing distance.
 
Hold the button half way before you take the picture also. That will focus on the subject. That could have been your problem also. Make sure when it focuses, the lines on the screen turn green. I know you said something about green and red arms or something earlier, but I didn't know exactly if you were talking about what I'm talking about or not.
I have an Easyshare camera, and they all are kind of similar to eachother. Now I have a Canon S3 though...
 
hey it does work!...i just had to take off the thingy from the video camera...i wish i could attach fiels...but ill put a link to the new watch pics...

and yes they are on an ugly carpet. mines been through alot..i also took a pic of my shoe...but i guess i wont post that since its not anything really. but i took a feew pics of the watch untill i figurd out a trick. i could just zoom in as close as i can without it being blurry, take the pic, and crop it! so yeah...ill show you..


http://www.freewebs.com/pimppistol/watch1.jpg

http://www.freewebs.com/pimppistol/watch2.jpg

the first one was the one i just took...the second one i cropped on the camera...it prolly wouldve looked better if i wouldve done it on the computer though...but i guess thats better. it would be reaslly helpful if i wasnt afraid to take pics of myself. but i hate that. but thanks for all the help!
 
Hold the button half way before you take the picture also. That will focus on the subject. That could have been your problem also. Make sure when it focuses, the lines on the screen turn green. I know you said something about green and red arms or something earlier, but I didn't know exactly if you were talking about what I'm talking about or not.
I have an Easyshare camera, and they all are kind of similar to eachother. Now I have a Canon S3 though...

the green hand thing im talking about is liek, after you take the picture, it shows either a green, yellow or red hand on the top. real small, but that kinda like, tells the quality of the picture..but i always wondered why it acted funny if i didnt push the button all the way..thanks!
 
The reason these newer photos are so much sharper is because of the shutter speed primarily - which is in relation to the amount of light. I checked your EXIF data on the first, and it was 1/8th of a second. That is pretty slow to be handheld. With these ones, it was 1/50th - which can feasibly be handheld by a steady hand and achieve a sharp shot.

Also with the 1/8th of a second shot - the background was black, which will 'fool' the meter into remaining open for a longer period of time as it is trying to achieve a 'middle grey'. Meanwhile for the 1/50th, the background is white, in which case more light is being reflected back to teh camera.
 
The reason these newer photos are so much sharper is because of the shutter speed primarily - which is in relation to the amount of light. I checked your EXIF data on the first, and it was 1/8th of a second. That is pretty slow to be handheld. With these ones, it was 1/50th - which can feasibly be handheld by a steady hand and achieve a sharp shot.

Also with the 1/8th of a second shot - the background was black, which will 'fool' the meter into remaining open for a longer period of time as it is trying to achieve a 'middle grey'. Meanwhile for the 1/50th, the background is white, in which case more light is being reflected back to teh camera.

........so..but...how did that happen? i didnt change anything. i used the same setting and all that. oh...well i had it on the smart select thingy. that mightve done something...so its better to take pictures on a black background or white?
 
:banghead: Wow Art, art, art????? What is art was a thing that will be better if art it is not and now his camera works because of a green hand thingy and a video tipod that shutter spped is not art like but is so it could iso be that it will soon and is concidered af art because of creativeity.:shock: :chatty: :shock: :whip: :headbang: :delete: :angry1: :roll: :cokespit:


Did I catch it all HOLLY :soapbox:
 
Erm ... Tyson?
Is everything all right with you?
I need not call anyone over for help, do I?
(I don't get what you mean to say here!)
 
:smileys: :smileys: :smileys: :smileys: Well the hole conversation went full circle from, how to use a camera, the use of a tripod, video camera tripod, some how mom went to town? Now the camera works but photography is not art? I just lost my last brain cell.
 
im confused....was it the tripod or the background and the ligth that changed to pictures quality??

and most forums do talk about more than one thing...
 
im confused....was it the tripod or the background and the ligth that changed to pictures quality??

and most forums do talk about more than one thing...

Some things that may not have been clear. (and a photograph can be ART! :hug:: )

First off the reason why you were getting a big white blob, for lack of a better way to describe a close-up taken with a flash, is the flash is just way too close and too bright. I know this shot, I have taken many of them. This needs to be a seperate discussion, about "on camera flashes".

You don't have enough light for the photo, so the camera is picking a very slow shutter speed. That's why a tripod works. Also the tip about push the button down half way, let the camera focus, is a very good one. The watch is standing still, there's no rush.

Things you can do to make a better image:

1) use a tripod, push the button very carefully, and slow, so it doesn't shake the camera. (why don't digital cameras have cable release threads? Hmmm?)

2) Use a tripod, set the self timer, so the camera is not being touched or moved. Push the button and "Step away from the camera" :sexywink:

3) Set the ISO on the camera higher. "watch1" You have it set on ISO 80 which is very low for natural light photos. Shutter speed was 1/51 of a second, which is slow, the lens was opened to f 3.25, probably wide open. Little depth of field, which is normal for close-ups or macro.

Set it to 400 and see what happens.

4) Add more light. But it looks like this one was on the carpet in Sunlight?

#3 is the biggest change you need to make, right now. Your ISO is set for something that would only work in bright Sunlight, outdoors. 80 is just too low for what you are trying to do with natural light.

Try ISO 400 if that is still getting blured images change it to 800.

A Kodak Easyshare 875 will take something like a a full second, maybe more, to find the image exposure, autofocus and then take a picture. (like most point and shoot cameras) It's not like a flim camera. There is a delay between pushing the shutter release and the camera finally getting all the settings.

I have some fine pictures with my Easyshare of my feet, walls, bushes and big blurs, because someone (maybe even me?) pushed the button and didn't wait for the camera to go through the whole process.

I think setting the ISO higher will solve your problem and you'll still have fine pictures with details.
 
im confused....was it the tripod or the background and the ligth that changed to pictures quality??

and most forums do talk about more than one thing...

Both, tripod is a great tool, light is also a very important tool.

I am a member of 4 different forums, it was just simple humor. You get it, a joke.:er:

You never did answer me, what kind of camera do you have?

I use a Pentax S40 to do my remote control aerial photography, it is a simple point and shoot camera but I tell you what it takes great pictures. You got to hand it to Pentax they make a good product.

I am a Olympus fan also, I have 3 had 4 but the fourth didn't make it through the crash ( was a AP camera ). I have a D425 a simple point and shoot, SP-310 the closest thing to a SLR and my E500 DSLR. The sp 310 is a 7mp and has all the fancy settings, shoots like crap! I think, now this is just my opinion, that the high quality cameras are harder to get a good picture from than a DSLR. I am talking the high Mp point and shoots. My DSLR will smoke the sp310 any day of the week. The sp310 was supose to be great, it is a pain in the butt. That might be a problem for you, I had a Kodak easyshare C530 I gave it to my brother. My DSLR has a kodak image sensor but I will never buy another kodak again.
 
Well said, RacePhoto!
I never thought about delayed release with a compact digital camera before, but that may also have caused the problems. Of course!
azz.gif
 

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