To push my 120 Tmax 400 or not to push.

xypex982

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Ok so I have some Tmax 400 in 120, and am going to shoot it through an old Sears Tower box camera. The only setting on the thing is the diaphragm size, a crude version of aperture, and there are only two settings. I am going to be shooting it at a party at school that is themed for the 20's and I thought it be cool to tell everyone the camera is from the 20's and use it ( I know that isnt true) and later scan the negatives, but since this will be indoors, but well lit by florecent lighting I was wondering if I should push to 800 or not. I am sure others have been in this situation, and I am wondering if I could get any help. I know either way the results wont be fantastic, but I am *thinking* that it would be easier to push to 800 and if necassary fix in photoshop than to way underexpose at 400 and have to try and salvage that in photoshop.


Thanks a ton in advanced guys.
 
For something this unpredictable I would recommend Diafine.

It's a 2-bath, push developer with the same time recommendations for almost
all the usual films from ISO 50-800 and beyond (3 min A + 3 min B).
 
It is better to over-expose negatives than to under expose.

I would guess a fixed shutter speed of 1/60 ... aperture 4.5 and 8.0
 
It is better to over-expose negatives than to under expose.

I would guess a fixed shutter speed of 1/60 ... aperture 4.5 and 8.0

probably more like f/16 and f/8.

The OP's idea of pusing 400 to 800 may not be enough. It might take another stop or two (EI 1600 or 3200).
 
I am going to have a lab dev for me cause I dont have a 120 reel. So definatly push one stop, possibly even two? How would 120 tmax 400 handle a 2 stop push? I have never shot 120 but I hear it is much more versatile and less grainy than 35mm
 
I have never shot 120 but I hear it is much more versatile and less grainy than 35mm

Well, for a given size print, you need less enlargement with 120 than 35mm film, so the grain will be less visible.

Back to your original question. A bit of googling should help you to find the aperture(s) and shutter speed of your Sears Tower box camera. If you have a light meter or another camera with a built-in light meter go on location to take a reading before the event. From the shutter speed, aperture and available light (as measured on location) you will be able to determine the EI you should use and then push your Tmax accordingly.
 
I much prefer TX over TMax for pushing more than a stop, especially if you want something that looks "old" as opposed to just super contrasty.
 

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