Truth about lenses any lens

I heard a rumor that Angry Photographer has an advanced degree in bulljive. Is that true?
 
I heard a rumor that Angry Photographer has an advanced degree in bulljive. Is that true?
Excramentative jubium extradisum.

Hes a master!
 
Come on guys, it’s Christmas, where’s all your good will toward angry men?!?!
It should be quite obvious to anyone smart enough to operate a camera that the Angry Photographer has at least a few anger management issues!!
We should, in the name of holiday spirit, be trying to find him some anger management therapy help....., not trying to PIZZ HIM OFF MORE!!! ☃️
SS
 
How much is it? Have I gotten enough peeps to help put money in my virtual pockets so I can afford to buy it??

As Bugs Bunny says, what a maroon.
 
Truth about lenses any lens

Ok i saw this video that Ken put out and he hit the nail on the head about lenses, i always
knew this and i can't agree with more..
Want to know the truth about lenses watch this..


It's like this there is always a sweet spot to where you focus your lens, just like every lens has a Aperture Sweet Spot where it captures it's sharpest..
This is why some times when some one uses a specific lens does portraits and wonders why one picture is not quite as sharp as another,

and many times it's due to where it was very sharp you had your lens at it's sweet spot and the other picture that was not so hot, is because it was NOT at it's sweet spot..



Bullwhompy
 
Hi Donny,

Thank you for sharing this video. I can identify with your opinion about finding the most effective spot or setting on a lens.
 
Hi Donny,

Thank you for sharing this video. I can identify with your opinion about finding the most effective spot or setting on a lens.


@Lonnie1212

Wait, you agree that your lenses acheive focus better at particular focal lengths?

Because that's Donny's assessment as written.
 
Hi Donny,

Thank you for sharing this video. I can identify with your opinion about finding the most effective spot or setting on a lens.


@Lonnie1212

Wait, you agree that your lenses acheive focus better at particular focal lengths?

Because that's Donny's assessment as written.

Trying to think of how I can answer the question. Not sure I have the know how or the experience to say for sure. But I struggle to learn with all of my lenses. I will give you an example. A few weeks ago I purchased a Nikon 18-35 lens for my first full frame camera-Nikon D610. Both the camera and lens are new to me. Have taken hundreds of pictures over the past two months. The pictures are better than my DX camera. But most of the pics are not keepers by any means. Just learning phase pictures and getting to know the camera and lens. But a few days ago I haphazardly took a night skyline picture from my apartment window. It was over the city of Springfield, Illinois. I eventually downloaded the SD card to my computer. I sat there and viewed all the photos I had taken. The skyline picture finally came across the computer screen. There was something different about the picture that took my breath away. It was the first picture I have ever taken in my life that actually made my jaw drop. It's not a pretty picture. It is a sharp picture. It is probably the sharpest picture I have ever taken. It was a night picture, there were city lights, there were brick buildings in the pic. Everything is unusually sharp and clear in the pic. What combination of settings or events led to this type of picture? Could it have been that sweet spot that the guy in the thread mentioned? I am not sure yet. But I do want to know.
 
It's hard for me to not take a sharp image on my d610...
 
Well Lonnie I would check the EXIF information, and see what focal length and what aperture and what ISO was used. That should give you a pretty good idea of where your lens is quite good. When I view my images in Lightroom. I have it set to display the focal length, the shutter speed, the ISO, and the aperture. In other words I want to see the exposure data and mentally correlate it with the resulting photo.

When taking star photos or city photos at night ,freedom from coma is particularly valuable in a lens. It just possible that with your 18 to 35 zoom lens you shot at an aperture where the lens is free from coma. Coma often makes a point of light look kind of like a football or an elongated saucer, like a flying saucer. If a lens is well corrected for coma it is therefore especially good for star or night photography where there are light sources.
 
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Well Lonnie I would check the EXIF information, and see what focal length and what aperture and what ISO was used. That should give you a pretty good idea of where your lens is quite good. When I view my images in Lightroom. I have it set to display the focal length, the shutter speed, the ISO, and the aperture. In other words I want to see the exposure data and mentally correlate it with the resulting photo.

When taking star photosor city photos at night ,freedom from coma is particularly valuable in a lens. It just possible that with your 18 to 35 zoom lens you shot at an aperture where the lens is free from coma. Coma often makes a point of light look kind of like a football or an elongated saucer, like a flying saucer. If a lens is well corrected for coma it is therefore especially good for star or night photography where there are light sources.

Will have to remember the coma issue. Thank you,
 
Freedom from coma is something that was a serious design criteria in the Sigma 50 mm f / 1.4 ART lens. The same was true in Nikon's old 58 mm F/1.2 Noct~Nikkor. Both of these lenses were designed to be shot in situations where their freedom from coma would give the photographer a real advantage. A few years ago I saw a side by side city night scene comparison of the SIgma 50mm 1.4 ART and Canon and Nikon 50 mm f / 1.4 lenses... the Sigma is a huge lens by comparison to either of those normal lenses, and it is more expensive as well, but it is also designed to be free from optical aberration at its widest lens openings. Pretty much the same thing is true of the roughly $4,000 Zeiss Batis.
 
Freedom from coma is something that was a serious design criteria in the Sigma 50 mm f / 1.4 ART lens. The same was true in Nikon's old 58 mm F/1.2 Noct~Nikkor. Both of these lenses were designed to be shot in situations where their freedom from coma would give the photographer a real advantage. A few years ago I saw a side by side city night scene comparison of the SIgma 50mm 1.4 ART and Canon and Nikon 50 mm f / 1.4 lenses... the Sigma is a huge lens by comparison to either of those normal lenses, and it is more expensive as well, but it is also designed to be free from optical aberration at its widest lens openings. Pretty much the same thing is true of the roughly $4,000 Zeiss Batis.

Looked up the Sigma 50 mm ART lens up on eBay. Found one for $550.00.
 
Freedom from coma is something that was a serious design criteria in the Sigma 50 mm f / 1.4 ART lens. The same was true in Nikon's old 58 mm F/1.2 Noct~Nikkor. Both of these lenses were designed to be shot in situations where their freedom from coma would give the photographer a real advantage. A few years ago I saw a side by side city night scene comparison of the SIgma 50mm 1.4 ART and Canon and Nikon 50 mm f / 1.4 lenses... the Sigma is a huge lens by comparison to either of those normal lenses, and it is more expensive as well, but it is also designed to be free from optical aberration at its widest lens openings. Pretty much the same thing is true of the roughly $4,000 Zeiss Batis.

Looked up the Sigma 50 mm ART lens up on eBay. Found one for $550.00.

Contrast that with the price of a used Canon EF 50mm f / 1.4 or a Nikon 50 mm / 1.4 AF-D.
 

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