Walgreens says my 35mm FUJI 200 was UPSIDE down and blank inside the roll....

[Josh66]

Once you start developing your own film, there will be a whole new batch of mistakes to make. It's worth it though.

 

[Derrel]

My first developing error? I used the right amount of developer to process a roll of film loaded on the bottom reel. The problem? I'd put the loaded reel on the top. Good times.

Ohhhhhh-good one, Leonore, good one!!!

 

[minicoop1985]

OMs are kinda annoying to load. Make sure the leader is hooked into the take up spool. I'm telling you this from experience. A lot of experience. With film popping off that spool... :er: I'd say I've had 5-6 rolls pop off after I had them hooked on there. When you advance the film, watch the rewind knob-it should turn as you advance. That's my little secret test to make sure I got it right.

Edit: Didn't see we were on page 3. Whoops. Anyway, welcome to the world of film. If you ever get into medium format cameras with interchangeable backs, you'll probably shred a few rolls of 120 trying to load it... THAT takes a bit of practice.

 

[timor]

If you ever get into medium format cameras with interchangeable backs, you'll probably shred a few rolls of 120 trying to load it...

What you've got ? Hassy ? The really troublesome back to load has Koni Omega Rapid 100 and is not about shredding , but about "where TF the arrows should show up so I don't loose two frames !"

 

[terri]

My first developing error? I used the right amount of developer to process a roll of film loaded on the bottom reel. The problem? I'd put the loaded reel on the top. Good times.

The good thing about making these kinds of mistakes is that you generally will not make them again. Instead you'll make new mistakes!

My first-time developing error went like this: 20 minutes in darkroom loading the film with sweaty hands and many naughty words before getting it on the reel and placed it into the tank. Screw on the top, snap on the lid. Yay.

Back at the sink, removed the lid to pour in the developer and THEN began my inversions - oh, the joy of seeing that developer slosh right out of the lid-less tank and go straight down the drain. I sloshed in more water and added a couple of minutes to the development. Result? Such pretty negatives, half-way through the frame.

Good times, yes!

 

[snowbear]

The first time I used a metal reel (in class, a few of years ago), I had fat-fingered the film and didn't get the bow, so a few layers were touching. I pulled them out of the wash and saw those muddy brown blotches on (what would have been) the better shots. I bought a Patterson tank & reel that weekend.

 

[wdh1974]

nice stories, good read lol

 

[Patriot]

This happened to me. I later found out that they couldn't process true B/W film. They didn't have the correct chemicals so my film came out blank.

 

[minicoop1985]

If you ever get into medium format cameras with interchangeable backs, you'll probably shred a few rolls of 120 trying to load it...

What you've got ? Hassy ? The really troublesome back to load has Koni Omega Rapid 100 and is not about shredding , but about "where TF the arrows should show up so I don't loose two frames !"

LOL. The very virst time I loaded Blad I thought the marks indicating 1 were - marks. So I kept going and got to 2, then realized OH CRAP. If I can do that, I can only imagine how bad I'd screw up that Koni... :lmao: What an odd looking camera, by the way. I imagine a 120 RF would be great to use though.

 

[vimwiz]

This happened to me. I later found out that they couldn't process true B/W film. They didn't have the correct chemicals so my film came out blank.

The chemists here ruined my XP2 in a similar way - it looks black and white but is C41 process, but they must have gottten confused, and somehow my prints came out in some rubbish sepia-tone effect/

 

[gsgary]

Your lucky Robert Capa landed on Omaha beach shot some rolls and back in London a your lad in the lab cocked up and he only ended up with about 12 frames but they are some of the greatest shots ever taken

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

 

[Helen B]

The chemists here ruined my XP2 in a similar way - it looks black and white but is C41 process, but they must have gottten confused, and somehow my prints came out in some rubbish sepia-tone effect/

That sounds more like a printing problem than developing. You film might be OK.

Re the original problem: although the reason seems all sorted out now, if it had been a normal 135 cassette loaded in to the camera the wrong way round (so that the film back faced forwards to the lens) not only would it be underexposed (having been exposed through the antihalation layer) and miscolored (having traveled the wrong way through the color filters) but it would also be very likely to show regular pressure marks cross-wise from the film coming out of the light trap at a sharp reverse angle. These would show up on the neg as black bars part way or right across the film, usually stretching from the corners of the sprocket holes.

 

[limr]

This happened to me. I later found out that they couldn't process true B/W film. They didn't have the correct chemicals so my film came out blank.

The chemists here ruined my XP2 in a similar way - it looks black and white but is C41 process, but they must have gottten confused, and somehow my prints came out in some rubbish sepia-tone effect/

Actually, that might be the scanning. If they developed it like they should have in C41, you'd get black and white images, but then if you scan those negatives as color negative images, then you get a sepia-ish tone. If you have them rescanned, they might look fine.

As with anything, I know this from experience

Edited: Here's one from that roll of TriX (didn't do any post on them, so don't tell me they're crooked and have dust spots )

Scanned in as color:




Scanned in as black and white:

 

[LeeStar]

And the charge 11.99 to develop 35mm in 1 hour lol, i will run a successful test roll then im buying my own dev kit!

What I want to know is where did you find a Walgreens that still does one hour developing? I was told they phased that out in all their stores, and did away with the machine. I'm going to mail mine to a lab to develop negatives and just scan them myself, but sometimes you just want to be able to see them the same day. Spoiled by digital. LOL. I do have a camera store near here but they did a horrible job so I won't be wasting my money on them anymore.

 

[timor]

LOL. The very virst time I loaded Blad I thought the marks indicating 1 were - marks. So I kept going and got to 2, then realized OH CRAP. If I can do that, I can only imagine how bad I'd screw up that Koni... :lmao: What an odd looking camera, by the way. I imagine a 120 RF would be great to use though.

I've seen Hassy back loaded with the paper back facing the lens , but the owners previous only MF camera was Holga. It's a big jump.
Koni is ugly, but in action very easy to operate. Everything is big. Big grip (has to be with camera's weight), big, bright viewfinder with parallax correction, big focusing wheel, big trigger. And just the big weight, well, all is made of bullet proof steel. One unique feature; it has a pressure plate. Not only that, a movable plate. When you wind plate moves back releasing the film, when new frame is in place, plate presses forward "locking" the film and making it as flat as possible. Camera doesn't rely only on film tension for flatness.