Camera Suggestions

[Designer]

I am a casual photographer who mainly photographs clothing as well as rock n roll dancing (low light and action combined). Any advice or suggestions?

For low-light, fast focus, and sharp images, you should get a AF-S 50mm Nikkor f/1.8 G. This focal length should be nearly ideal for shooting night club action. If you ever do change bodies, the next level up (the D7xxx and higher) will continue to function perfectly with the 50mm. These are not terribly expensive, and you should be able to find a gently-used copy for less. Alternatively, if the 50mm is too long, get the 35mm 1.8 G, which is just as good, only a shorter focal length. Either lens will give you lower light improvement over your present lens.

 

[TheCheekyPixel]

I am a casual photographer who mainly photographs clothing as well as rock n roll dancing (low light and action combined). Any advice or suggestions?

For low-light, fast focus, and sharp images, you should get a AF-S 50mm Nikkor f/1.8 G. This focal length should be nearly ideal for shooting night club action. If you ever do change bodies, the next level up (the D7xxx and higher) will continue to function perfectly with the 50mm. These are not terribly expensive, and you should be able to find a gently-used copy for less. Alternatively, if the 50mm is too long, get the 35mm 1.8 G, which is just as good, only a shorter focal length. Either lens will give you lower light improvement over your present lens.

Thank you I did have in the back of my mind the thought of a prime...


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[Derrel]

Just a quick note on the 35mm AF-S G-series prime from Nikon: the **original** model is specified as the DX-Nikkor 35mm f/1.8, and has sold at $199, new, for a long time. This lens was the first or second DX-prime Nikon released,maybe 10 years ago now. It's good, but is not "great", mostly due to some color fringing in bright, high-contrast environments, around things like telephone wires seen against the sky, or tree limbs, backlighted, or on BRIGHT beach or river scens with water that has sunlight on it: this lens, and some others, like the old 180mm f/2.8 AF-D, tend to show this "purple fringing". This is designed specifically for DX, but it wil cover the 4x5 or 8x10 aspect on the full-frame cameras pretty well.

There is also a NEWER 35mm f/1.8 AF-S G Nikkor, but it does not have the "DX" nomenclature attached to it. This much-newer lens model retails at around $699 in the USA...it is a very much better, pro-type lens. The issue is so weird with these two 35mm, f/1.8, G-series models, that as 480Sparky showed last week, Nikon is preparing to designate the high-performance model as the FX-Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 model. Right on the lens barrel, will be FX. Nikon has NOT releaded lenses that "say" FX on them, but they have a long series of DX-Nikkors out on the market.

 

[TheCheekyPixel]

Just a quick note on the 35mm AF-S G-series prime from Nikon: the **original** model is specified as the DX-Nikkor 35mm f/1.8, and has sold at $199, new, for a long time. This lens was the first or second DX-prime Nikon released,maybe 10 years ago now. It's good, but is not "great", mostly due to some color fringing in bright, high-contrast environments, around things like telephone wires seen against the sky, or tree limbs, backlighted, or on BRIGHT beach or river scens with water that has sunlight on it: this lens, and some others, like the old 180mm f/2.8 AF-D, tend to show this "purple fringing". This is designed specifically for DX, but it wil cover the 4x5 or 8x10 aspect on the full-frame cameras pretty well.

There is also a NEWER 35mm f/1.8 AF-S G Nikkor, but it does not have the "DX" nomenclature attached to it. This miuch-newer lens model retails at around $699 in the USA...it is a very much better, pro-type lens. The issue is so weird, that as 480Sparky showed last week, Nikon is preparing to designat the high-performance model as the FX-Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 model.

Thanks (most of the is foreign terms to me) but I am thinking more the 50mm anyway


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[Derrel]

The 50/1.8 AF-S G is a very sharp lens, affordable, and will make a nice, short-tele on any APS-C Nikon. It is very good for the price, and has a nice lens shade, and the angle of view is pretty sweet on APS-C! It is not too-telephoto in many indoor situations, and it does not demand the lens hood be attached the way some 1970's 50mm lenses did...the front element is set well back inside the barrel.

 

[TheCheekyPixel]

The 50/1.8 AF-S G is a very sharp lens, affordable, and will make a nice, short-tele on any APS-C Nikon. It is very good for the price, and has a nice lens shade, and the angle of view is pretty sweet on APS-C! It is not too-telephoto in many indoor situations, and it does not demand the lens hood be attached the way some 1970's 50mm lenses did...the front element is set well back inside the barrel.

Oh fantastic thank you very much!


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[TheCheekyPixel]

Ok so after some more research I am going to get a 50mm prime... then I can look more into upgrading and still be able to use it when I upgrade...

My question is... I'm only finding them without the DX? What does this mean and will it still suit the D5000? I'm getting confused


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[goooner]

It probably means that they are not DX only lenses (that were designed for crop sensors-like in your D5000), they will work on both DX and FX cameras, without causing vignetting on FX bodies (Full frame Nikons eg. D610). Hope that makes sense.

 

[Designer]

My question is... I'm only finding them without the DX? What does this mean and will it still suit the D5000? I'm getting confused

It's easy to become confused. The 50mm does not include the "DX" designation because it is designed for either. That lens is basically considered an "FX" lens, although as Derrel wrote; Nikon has not traditionally put that designation in the nomenclature. The traditional way to look at this is: If the lens doesn't specify anything, then it's an "FX" lens. If it says "DX" then it was designed primarily for DX sensors.

In practical terms; ANY F-mount Nikon lens will fit and work on ANY F-mount Nikon camera. Some entry-level bodies (such as yours) will not auto-focus the older AF-D lenses, and the older lenses don't communicate fully with the camera, but you can still use them if you don't mind focusing manually.

The "DX" lenses will not project an image circle large enough to cover the "FX" sized sensor, but the middle of the image will be o.k. Users of "full-sized" cameras can still use the "DX" lenses, because they can just crop off the vignetting and it's fine. Or their fancy camera will do that for them as they take the picture.

I hope this helps. If my response has created more confusion, please let me know.

 

[Frank F.]

The image circle of the "35GDX" will only shine light on the DX-format which is a chip recording light the size of 23x16 square millimeters ... these chips are present in the 3xxx, 5xxx and 7xxx (four digit) series as well as the D500, the D300 and other older professional Nikon Cameras

The image circle of the "35GFX" will shine light on the FX-format which is a chip recording light the size of 24x36 square millimeters ... these chips are present in the Flagships D3, D4, D5 as well as in the D8xx, D7xx and D6xx (three digit) series

 

[TheCheekyPixel]

My question is... I'm only finding them without the DX? What does this mean and will it still suit the D5000? I'm getting confused

It's easy to become confused. The 50mm does not include the "DX" designation because it is designed for either. That lens is basically considered an "FX" lens, although as Derrel wrote; Nikon has not traditionally put that designation in the nomenclature. The traditional way to look at this is: If the lens doesn't specify anything, then it's an "FX" lens. If it says "DX" then it was designed primarily for DX sensors.

In practical terms; ANY F-mount Nikon lens will fit and work on ANY F-mount Nikon camera. Some entry-level bodies (such as yours) will not auto-focus the older AF-D lenses, and the older lenses don't communicate fully with the camera, but you can still use them if you don't mind focusing manually.

The "DX" lenses will not project an image circle large enough to cover the "FX" sized sensor, but the middle of the image will be o.k. Users of "full-sized" cameras can still use the "DX" lenses, because they can just crop off the vignetting and it's fine. Or their fancy camera will do that for them as they take the picture.

I hope this helps. If my response has created more confusion, please let me know.

Thank you! You have been a great help! All of you [emoji4]



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[Derrel]

The image circle of the "35GDX" will only shine light on the DX-format which is a chip recording light the size of 23x16 square millimeters ... these chips are present in the 3xxx, 5xxx and 7xxx (four digit) series as well as the D500, the D300 and other older professional Nikon Cameras

The image circle of the "35GFX" will shine light on the FX-format which is a chip recording light the size of 24x36 square millimeters ... these chips are present in the Flagships D3, D4, D5 as well as in the D8xx, D7xx and D6xx (three digit) series

Uhhhh, you might want to check that on some of the earlier FX cameras; the 4:5 aspect ratio is pretty closely filled by the DX-NIKKOR 35mm G.. it is actually "usable" on a format that is larger than DX. With a bit of vignetting control applied in post software, it CAN be used on an FX camera. I've seen other examples as well of this inexpensive 35mm DX-lens used on earlier, FX cameras, D3,D3s,D3x, shooting in 4;5 aspect. BUT--you do not "have to" shopot to that aspect...you can shoot, and crop, later.

Using Nikon DX Lenses on FX Cameras

Something to think about. AND, one of THE major selling points of Nikon over Canon; Canon's EF-S lenses are USELESS on FF Canons and will not even MOUNT directly on FF Canon cameras...with Nikon's DX-format lenses, you get FULL DX coverage on a FF body or a DX body, annnnnd also, ALL DX lenses can mount to a Nikon, and you might get some of the range covered in FF, or on 5:4 aspect.

 

[Derrel]

Have you considered Tokina's 16-28mm lens? it was premiered in 2010: prices have come down since then.

Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8 Review

 

[TheCheekyPixel]

Have you considered Tokina's 16-28mm lens? it was premiered in 2010: prices have come down since then.

Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8 Review

I read the article but I use filters occasionally so that rules it out. Plus it's quite heavy


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[Derrel]

Time to buy a the Nikon D7100 you had been considering. Or switch to Canon. Or to buy a new-generation Nikon D5xxx series, which has that sweet flippy screen.

If you want the best optics, you will not get them in 7- to 10- ounce lenses. If you want a camera to "leverage" your skill as a self-described casual photographer, take my former photo/video salesman advice to heart: the people that benefit THE MOST from mid- and high-end cameras and lenses, are beginners, and intermediates. For the casual/beginner/intermediate shooter, the camera with the BEST AF system, and the BEST sensor, and the BEST lens will make his or her shots come out markedly better than when trapped with their f/3.5 18mm and the f/5.6 max aperture end of a 55mm lens, which REALLY is a short telephoto.

The more experienced and proficent the shooter, the more they can work around beginner-class gear. It has been enjoyable helping you, but I would say, time to make a decision on weight, price, and model. Go to a store, or order by mail. But realize the fact that, as a casual shooter, your ***equipment*** plays a big role in what you can, or can not, shoot.