First time working with a model.. EVER

[MrMikeyZ2189]

First time ever working with a model. She's trying to start a portfolio and I'm trying to improve with my photo skills so we were both a little nervous. Shot with a D40, 18-55 (no VR), and for 2 of the shots I used my SB800 with an umbrella. Triggering it by built in flash. I need some cables or pocket wizards to take advantage of TTL :/.. Anyways here they are:

1.

2.

3.

4.

5. (Shot with umbrella)

6. ( Shot with umbrella)

 

[invncblsonic143]

Love #4

 

[Heitz]

You might want to do some barrel correction for # 6. And on that note for #4 and 6 your wide-angle is making your model appear very, well, lanky. For #4 and 5, your model might appreciate it if you remove some of the blemishes. The color in #5 looks a little harsh. In #6, it looks like the sky is blown a bit. just my opinion, of course

 

[Corvphotography]

2 and 3 are my fav.

 

[MrMikeyZ2189]

You might want to do some barrel correction for # 6. And on that note for #4 and 6 your wide-angle is making your model appear very, well, lanky. For #4 and 5, your model might appreciate it if you remove some of the blemishes. The color in #5 looks a little harsh. In #6, it looks like the sky is blown a bit. just my opinion, of course

I agree with all of your critiquing and I appreciate it. I need to work on some more lenses, something fixed, fast. I gave the list of what I have so I just made with what I could. I need to do more research or find someone who's more familiar with modeling/portraiture that I can work with. Sure I can find a lot on this forum. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Robin Usagani]

Typically you want to shoot models at around 85mm.

 

[Derrel]

#2 and#6 both have exaggeratedly large feet, due to 1) the close camera-to-subject distance and 2)the short focal length that was used. The BIGGEST influence in this case is the camera-to-subject distance...the camera-to-subject distance is what creates the exaggerated perspective, more so than the short focal length. Shot #2 is a prime example of making extended limbs and feet look BIGGER than the body parts that are just a few inches farther away from the camera; it can be used to great creative effect if used very carefully, and with concentrated,focused, intense attention payed to the exact size relationships that are being recorded. It can be difficult to see this in the viewfinder!!! The thing is, whatever is CLOSEST to the camera can be as large as 2,3, or even 4x larger (measured! actually measured!) that it "ought to be" in real-life. Fashion and figure/nude shooters of high skill are adept at maximizing leg length, or arm length, by careful and controlled use of camera-to-subject distance and of focal length. I see the SAME, exact "trick" used often by television fishermen, holding up 3 pound bass in a bass boat, with the cameraman 4 feet away with his lens zoomed to ultra-wide...it makes the bass look HUUUUUGE, ad compared to the fisherman's head size. Same thing is used by many fishing afficionados...the key is to look at their hands--not just the fish extended toward the camera; if the hands also look larger than the angler's head does, then you know the effect is being done in an effort to distort the size relationships.

Here's a fun experiment: Hold your own hand out at arm's length, straight out. Put your four fingers and thumb together so they are flat, finger pointing skyward. THEN, step really close-up to a friend, and block your view of their face by using your extended hand. Then, holding your arm extended, walk backwards away from them, and see how the same-sized hand, your hand, changes the AREA that it blocks from your view. This is an exercise in learning how distance affects our perception of size relationships. One of the trickiest things with the 18-55 is how limiting it is when photographing people. And how ugly they look when shot with the bottom end of that lens's focal length range.

 

[Robin Usagani]

But sometimes there is nothing you can do about it. No matter what lens you use, the subject is still ugly

One of the trickiest things with the 18-55 is how limiting it is when photographing people. And how ugly they look when shot with the bottom end of that lens's focal length range.

 

[MrMikeyZ2189]

Awesome replies guys thanks so much. I can see what you mean now too. Next time I shoot her I'll try to stick to using higher focal lengths and not getting close to her and keeping the focal super wide. In all honesty do you guys feel I did ok being my first time shooting someone like this? Also, do you guys shoot any models? If so, any kind of equipment you recommend that could help me out when it comes to shooting models? Lenses, lights, etc. I'm thinking about picking up another flash, probably sb600, and maybe a softbox for it. How do you feel about this? I feel like I'm starting to get a good understanding on how to use the settings on my camera because I shoot manual all the time. Any techniques you recommend? I'm really trying to improve my work the best I can with the equipment I have. I'm dying to go drop cash on a D7000 but I have school and other things to worry about at the moment so I want to work with what I have. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if I seem like a ridiculous noob but I've been shooting cars for a while now, even got 2 photos into readers ride magazine articles and I'm starting to get offered paid photoshoots for my car work. But I want more transition and want to be able to not only focus on one particular subject all the time.

 

[subscuck]

I think a lot of the pros might recommend looking into a strobe instead of another speedlite. In a fist fight, the Sun will beat a speedlite to a pulp. Against a strobe, the strobe will win. Maybe check out Alien Bees, they have packages available as well. Of course, if your not near a power source, you'll need a battery as well.

 

[Derrel]

THE NIKON D40 is one of the BEST d-slr cameras ever made for doing flash + sun light work. Why? Because it can synchronize flash with shutter speeds as high as 1/8000 second. That makes it the perfect small d-slr for the ultimate degree of control over exposures outdoors when flash is being used. The Nikon AS-15 hot shoe mounting PC outlet accessory is nice to have; slide it into the hotshoe of the camera, twist the locking nut, and then PLUG IN a PC cord that connects to a good, powerful flash. if you want a battery-powered flash that can overpower BRIGHT, full daylight summer sun, you need a powerful flash like the discontinued Sunpak 622 Super ($199-$250 new, with some looking for stock), or a Metz handle-mount (amply expensive!). These are flash units that have Guide Numbers that can overpower sunlight at 200 ISO, pretty easily. Your current flash + ambient work looks okay, like you have the basics down pretty well. In terms of actual flash output, a 622 Super (or a top-level Metz) has the actual f/stop output of many 400 watt-second monolights, due to efficiency of the Sunpak's flashtube and reflector and its Fresnel lens in the zoom head. This Sunpak I speak of is well below the price of an Alien Bee monolight, or a Quantum Q-flash AND it has better controls on it than the Q-flash, and is easy to understand, and has a manual, mechanical slide-rule calculator and exposure chart right on the back of it...plus it runs on 4 C-batteries, which TODAY, in the high power ratings of the 21st century, kick some serious ass compared with those whimpy little AA's.

 

[moeglydesign]

Not bad at all! Great shots for your first time. The last two are probably the weakest of the set, but very good overall.

 

[Robin Usagani]

I disagree with what people say here about getting a big strobe. I think that is going too fast. Why not try to be real good without flash first? Learn where to put the sun and what natural background to use? Then learn how to get good with 1 off camera flash, then 2, then you can start thinking about getting big strobe.

Just based on the shadow I am judging you can take some kick arse photos without using a flash. You can have a back lit subject with dark background. No flash needed.

 

[MrMikeyZ2189]

Not bad at all! Great shots for your first time. The last two are probably the weakest of the set, but very good overall.

Thanks a lot I appreciate it!

I disagree with what people say here about getting a big strobe. I think that is going too fast. Why not try to be real good without flash first? Learn where to put the sun and what natural background to use? Then learn how to get good with 1 off camera flash, then 2, then you can start thinking about getting big strobe.


Just based on the shadow I am judging you can take some kick arse photos without using a flash. You can have a back lit subject with dark background. No flash needed.

I agree with you on this one. I want to progress with the equipment I have and just update a few things. The alienbees will eventually come because I looked into them for my automotive work. I like the mobility of speedlights and I'll probably work with one for now and then progress to another and see where it takes me. I think for my next shoot with this model I'm going to do all natural, no flash or umbrella, and see what I can do with her just working with the sun and different backgrounds. We eventually want to find some old, creepy buildings and I'll work with my flash in there, but I still want to be able to produce great quality photos with natural light. Her and I are hoping we can get her some portfolio built for a possible local modeling agency and who knows, if I can progress with my skill I'll try to pick up some photo jobs part time on the side. I'm going to look into the AS-15 that Derrel mentioned and see what I can do. Any lense that you use or recommend for modeling? You said I should shoot at 85mm but obviously my lense isn't capable of it, haha. I'm loving all this feedback and my next shoot I will definitely post on here and I want to hear your guys feedback!

 

[MrMikeyZ2189]

THE NIKON D40 is one of the BEST d-slr cameras ever made for doing flash + sun light work. Why? Because it can synchronize flash with shutter speeds as high as 1/8000 second. That makes it the perfect small d-slr for the ultimate degree of control over exposures outdoors when flash is being used. The Nikon AS-15 hot shoe mounting PC outlet accessory is nice to have; slide it into the hotshoe of the camera, twist the locking nut, and then PLUG IN a PC cord that connects to a good, powerful flash. if you want a battery-powered flash that can overpower BRIGHT, full daylight summer sun, you need a powerful flash like the discontinued Sunpak 622 Super ($199-$250 new, with some looking for stock), or a Metz handle-mount (amply expensive!). These are flash units that have Guide Numbers that can overpower sunlight at 200 ISO, pretty easily. Your current flash + ambient work looks okay, like you have the basics down pretty well. In terms of actual flash output, a 622 Super (or a top-level Metz) has the actual f/stop output of many 400 watt-second monolights, due to efficiency of the Sunpak's flashtube and reflector and its Fresnel lens in the zoom head. This Sunpak I speak of is well below the price of an Alien Bee monolight, or a Quantum Q-flash AND it has better controls on it than the Q-flash, and is easy to understand, and has a manual, mechanical slide-rule calculator and exposure chart right on the back of it...plus it runs on 4 C-batteries, which TODAY, in the high power ratings of the 21st century, kick some serious ass compared with those whimpy little AA's.

I'm going to look into the AS-15 and I'll also leave the other products you mentioned in mind. I really appreciate the great feedback and all the advice. I'm going to work more with this model and keep posting photos of her as I progress. Hopefully you guys check them out and give me awesome responses like you are now. For now, I'm going to see where my one flash can take me and go from there. You mentioned the fact of the 18-55 making subjects look ugly to do the bottom end of the focal length. You think I'll improve my next shoot using the lense at a higher focal length? Or should I maybe look into the 18-105? Or something you recommend?