Good starter film camera?

@Pedro_lopez I have a good film camera for you if you want one for free. It's a Pentax P30T, with a 50mm lens. It's an aperture priority type camera that is light weight, manual focus, and quite capable. It shoots in manual or program as well if I recall correctly. I used it in manual mode mostly but A mode makes it super easy to use. Comes with a case, flash, lens. I used it for several rolls and liked it but I am into 100% viewfinder type cameras. The shutter speeds are spot on, light meter is accurate, no light leaks. Just a good working, easy to use camera to start out with. I takes readily avaible lr44 batteries. PM me with your address and I will send it to you. There are plenty of affordable pentax smc a type lenses available for it. It can use the non "a" type lenses as well but it you like to shoot in aperture priority, the "a" lenses work for that. Very underrated little camera.

Pentax Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database

Pentax P30T - Pentax Manual Focus Film SLRs - Pentax Camera Reviews and Specifications
 
Last edited:
Here are some options that came to my head. I am not familiar with the later film cameras.
  • Canon FTb (this used the older breach lock mount) (mercury battery)
  • Mamiya/Sekor; 500 or 1000, TL or DTL (this used the Pentax thread mount) (silver oxide battery)
  • Minolta SRT 101, 102 and later models (101, 102, 20x use mercury battery)
  • Nikkormat FTn (mercury battery)
  • Nikon FM series (FM uses silver oxide battery)
  • Olympus OM (OM-1 = mercury battery, OM-2, 3 and 4 = silver oxide batteries)
  • Pentax Spotmatic (this used the Pentax thread mount, and had some great lenses) (mercury battery)
  • Pentax K1000 (this used a bayonet mount) (silver oxide battery)
> updated with type of battery used
The Pentax Spotmatic will use any battery that will fit as the meter uses a bridge circuit - there is no current flowing through the meter when the needle is centred so the voltage is irrelevant. I am pretty sure that the Olympus OM1 is the same.
 
Or forget the batteries, as the only thing they power is the light meter. There are light meter apps for smartphones that do the job just as well.

As long as the photos come out good

That's more dependant on you, not the camera ;)

There are really not a lot of features on older mechanical film cameras. The basics: shutter speed, aperture setting, film advance and rewind. Some will have a timer, or a knob or dial to set the camera to a different setting if it has aperture or shutter priority. So you wouldn't be spending much time at all learning features of a camera. Instead, you will have to focus on making sure you know how and when to adjust those few settings to get a decent exposure, and how that lens and the film you are using respond to different conditions.
 
@Pedro_lopez I have a good film camera for you if you want one for free. It's a Pentax P30T, with a 50mm lens. It's an aperture priority type camera that is light weight, manual focus, and quite capable. It shoots in manual or program as well if I recall correctly. I used it in manual mode mostly but A mode makes it super easy to use. Comes with a case, flash, lens. I used it for several rolls and liked it but I am into 100% viewfinder type cameras. The shutter speeds are spot on, light meter is accurate, no light leaks. Just a good working, easy to use camera to start out with. I takes readily avaible lr44 batteries. PM me with your address and I will send it to you. There are plenty of affordable pentax smc a type lenses available for it. It can use the non "a" type lenses as well but it you like to shoot in aperture priority, the "a" lenses work for that. Very underrated little camera.

Pentax Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database

Pentax P30T - Pentax Manual Focus Film SLRs - Pentax Camera Reviews and Specifications

Sounds awesome


Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app
 
@Pedro_lopez I have a good film camera for you if you want one for free. It's a Pentax P30T, with a 50mm lens. It's an aperture priority type camera that is light weight, manual focus, and quite capable. It shoots in manual or program as well if I recall correctly. I used it in manual mode mostly but A mode makes it super easy to use. Comes with a case, flash, lens. I used it for several rolls and liked it but I am into 100% viewfinder type cameras. The shutter speeds are spot on, light meter is accurate, no light leaks. Just a good working, easy to use camera to start out with. I takes readily avaible lr44 batteries. PM me with your address and I will send it to you. There are plenty of affordable pentax smc a type lenses available for it. It can use the non "a" type lenses as well but it you like to shoot in aperture priority, the "a" lenses work for that. Very underrated little camera.

Pentax Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database

Pentax P30T - Pentax Manual Focus Film SLRs - Pentax Camera Reviews and Specifications

Sounds awesome


Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app
It will be in the mail Friday!
 
Or forget the batteries, as the only thing they power is the light meter. There are light meter apps for smartphones that do the job just as well.

For a novice a TTL meter is simpler to use.
A TTL light meter takes into account the angle of view of the lens being used, which I do not think the smart phone apps will do.

I use a handheld incident meter myself, for situations that the TTL meter can't handle.
 
Or forget the batteries, as the only thing they power is the light meter. There are light meter apps for smartphones that do the job just as well.

For a novice a TTL meter is simpler to use.
A TTL light meter takes into account the angle of view of the lens being used, which I do not think the smart phone apps will do.

I use a handheld incident meter myself, for situations that the TTL meter can't handle.

What is easier depends on the learner and what they feel is worth their time.

My phone light meter app does as good a job as do any of my in-camera meters.

Ultimately, the only point is that not having a battery in a camera that only depends on one for the light meter doesn't mean that camera should be discounted. There are plenty of ways to get a light reading for exposure purposes.
 
Or forget the batteries, as the only thing they power is the light meter. There are light meter apps for smartphones that do the job just as well.

For a novice a TTL meter is simpler to use.
A TTL light meter takes into account the angle of view of the lens being used, which I do not think the smart phone apps will do.

I use a handheld incident meter myself, for situations that the TTL meter can't handle.

What is easier depends on the learner and what they feel is worth their time.

My phone light meter app does as good a job as do any of my in-camera meters.

Ultimately, the only point is that not having a battery in a camera that only depends on one for the light meter doesn't mean that camera should be discounted. There are plenty of ways to get a light reading for exposure purposes.

True.
When I first started shooting I had no light meter.
I used the exposure guide printed on the paper Kodak put with their film, and it worked fine.
 
I think for a film camera I would look for a Pentax K1000 with a 50mm f/2.0 . I used one for several years with a Vivatar 283 to shoot yearbook pictures when I was the advisor years ago. There was a gozillion of them made and they are extremely competent machines. Full manual with TTL meter and totally mechanical.

Search results for: 'pentax k1000'


Pentax 50mm f2 SMC M Lens 50/2 K-Mount
 
Last edited:
... if I was to restart ... OM-4T + Zuiko 250mm f/2.0
Hope you have fun with the Pentax


olympus_om250_2_08.JPG
 
It seems you were gifted a camera, but I would've said the AE-1 is fine. I'm a Nikon man myself, (with SLRs anyway) and would recommend an FM2 or F3.
 
For me the best starter 35mm film camera is hands down the Pentax K1000.
 
A good place to start IS in a photographic shop that has (or better) specialises in film cameras.
I live in Leeds UK and am lucky that there are several places doing film cameras.
One place in particular only sells film cameras gear.

Thing is these kinda cameras are very tactile and visceral, you want something that’s comfortable in your hands, so personally if I buy a ‘new’ one (I always buy used equipment) I go and have a play with it first.
In such camera shops, they ladies n gents serving are always super helpful and knowledgeable. So take the plunge and ask away.
You gonna get asked: what sort of pictures you’d like to take?, do you want anything other than 35mm? Etc.
So be honest if u don’t know/not sure, they will still help you.
The great thing is some astonishingly good lenses are available for such cameras.

I for example am into macro photography and on my film cameras using bellows (and mostly) a reversed prime. It almost feels sacrilege to stick some of these amazing lenses on backwards.
A lot of the stuff I have is via my late grandfather. From him (had digital not come along) is (imho) the greatest camera ever - the Contax RTS, this was my granddads, he looked after it and I’m doing likewise, it’s still in great condition. Still silky smooth and a joy to own.
As a kid I had various Yashica cameras (35mm) and still love them all.

Next thing is if you gonna shoot film, you will get most pleasure out of developing the film yourself, then using an enlarger and printing the photos.
Nothing fancy needed here. Again all my stuff is ‘passed down’ or second hand. My enlarger is an unknown make and vintage, but gets the job done.
If going to do this (you should), factor in the cost of developing /printing stuff, and the need to ‘black out’ a room. I now work in a study. It’s south facing, but some g8 products to seal out the one window, it really is ‘blacked out’ and good to go. So some DIY skills needed. But nothing an oldie like me can’t manage.

If you read up on this, simplest set up is for B&W. Somehow to me these kinda cameras lend themselves to B&W. Colour is an option, but, developing/printing is more of a faff so personally I work in B&W.
There are of course places that will develop and print for you, I’m not into this but it can be done.

In summary: What camera do you need?
Well one that works, and you feel comfortable handling. Getting a good lens is more important, after all the camera is simply exposing the film for as long is needed.
And of course this sort of photography improves your photography.
No mucking around on photoshop here.

My recommendation (just from personal experience) anything by Yashica or Pentax.

Regarding technical stuff. Many of the last run 35mm cameras had all sorts of electronic gizmos. I’m not into that. A reasonable light meter is all you need if your camera will only take pics at full manual or (like me) you want to shoot at full manual anyhow.

A word of WARNING, I have been scammed several times via EBay, (I’m not criticising EBay - it’s the sellers - have received gear said to be in ‘Near Perfect’ condition, it turns up and is a total dog), EBay have fully refunded each time, but it’s put me off them for photo equipment.
There are some good second hand camera specific sites that honestly describe their equipment and inc a warranty and no quibble return.

Paradoxically a lot of film cameras, that look just ‘beaten to death’ still work fine. I have several ex photojournalist Nikon’s, that look like have been stamped on by a squad of marines, they still work good.

Which brings me full circle, go and try this stuff first in a shop.

Incidentally if you want to freak and get a medium format film camera, (a lot out there), again, I strongly suggest ‘look at and try’, before buy. Depending on your developing kit, still fine to process this stuff yourself.

Finally Re: Cameras, many shown as ‘none working’ or ‘for spares’, etc
Many of which are unusual or very rare. There’s no harm in stripping them down and trying to figure out what’s gone wrong. I reckon I have a 60 - 75% success rate of camera resurrection, maybe not all functionality, but enough to take a photo. (Much to my wife’s annoyance) I don’t like selling my stuff, but the few I’ve ‘made work’ but don’t use, have sold on for a good profit.

Sorry I can’t specifically suggest a single camera for you.
My intention is to get you out and about and looking at this stuff.
I do shoot digital and love that....
But.....
On balance I have a lot more fun in my study developing/enlarging film.



Sent from my iPad using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top