I just don't understand! I'm SO Frustrated =(

[MTVision]

I have still been struggling with some basic issues so I tried out some advice given to me on here long ago. Instead if implemneting more gear into my regimen, such as flash, I simply raised my ISO in the first picture, indoors to 3200 (on my D7000) which I know is high but 1. in order to have my meter read "0" I had to go up that high and 2. supposedly the D7000 can handle ISO that high without too much noise. I still was underxposed by a stop or two but given the amount of noise with the ISO 3200 and my aperture being 1 stop from wide open (also don't like to shoot slower than 1/200 as advised!) These are not photographs in the least but I just snapped them so I could upload them here and get some feedback.

The second one I show I tried reducing the ISO and just slowing the shutter (though I know this is usually disaterous for me.) Nevertheless, I did it to experiment. This shot was taken with a shutter of 1/60.

The 3rd shot was taken at around 6:30 at night outside with my 55-300 mm f/4.5 telephoto. I know this is not the best lens for low light but I needed to be able to sit back. Not wanting to shoot any slower than 1/200 (advice given here) I shot as wide open as possible on this lens and raised my ISO to 800. It looks noisy/grainy....I don't get why.

The exposures are all wrong , they are grainy, noisy, and blurry. I know if I composed differently they might be a tad better, but not much. If I raised my ISO up any higher there would have been even more noise and if I slowed my shutter anymoer it would have been even more blurry. I also know the white balance is off but again, this was more to show exposure.

I think in this type of sitution/lighting I would have no choice but to use another light source. Even with an ISO of1250 and shutter of 1/60, it looks noisy. I thought the camera could handle higher ISO's. I'm sure it's me but maybe you can help. I'm extremely frustrated, trying to take advice, and just feeling down.

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Your camera can handle high ISO's but it doesn't necessarily mean there will be no noise. I have some shots taken at ISO 3200 that look a little noisy on the computer but you can't even see it with an 8x10 print. Under exposure and/or raising exposure in post will show more noise so you really have to nail your exposure when using higher ISO's.

The advice given by Unpopular and the others about metering pretty much covers the exposure issues.

 

[table1349]

spot metering for portrait photography | Laurence Kim Photographer

 

[SCraig]

If you are going to shoot at an ISO that high you absolutely have to be spot-on or on the edge of overexposure but never, ever underexposure. Noise is most prevalent in underexposed areas or shadows, and when the entire image is underexposed then you are going to have an entire image that is noisy.

While the D7000 is very good at high ISO it is not noise-free. I shoot a lot at ISO 1600 with very good results, but I keep the exposure to the right side of the histogram to limit the shadow areas.

 

[pgriz]

A few points: keep the main light source behind you (well, more or less), use the spot-meter off the face, and check the histogram to verify that you're exposing to the right. But I'm just repeating advice already given. As for shooting at 1/200sec, you may want to check your hand-holding motion limits by shooting at progressively slower shutter speeds and then examining where in the sequence the motion starts showing up. That becomes YOUR personal limit for that focal length. I know that with my lens set to IS (canon-speak, or VR in nilon-speak), I can shoot down to about 1/10 at about 24 mm. But that's not every day and in every circumstance.

 

[topazsol]

I've been having a hard time figuring out all the technical aspects of photography myself. I understand. I think your kids are really adorable and your pictures are not as bad as you think they are. Try not to be so hard on yourself, I know that is easier said than done but just keep reading, learning, and experimenting and you will eventually get it. That's what I keep telling myself, especially when I want to throw my camera against the wall.

 

[fjrabon]

I think you need a variation on the reciprocal focal length rule. The reciprocal focal length rule is a handy, very basic rule of thumb guide. However, I think we've pretty well established from previous excursions that it simply doesn't work for you. The reciprocal focal length rule was establsihed for photographers with average hand shake (for photographers), on a full 35mm sensor (you have a crop frame), but without VR.

But just because you seem to have more than average hand shake, that doesn't mean you always need to shoot at 1/200 either. You probably need something like either 1/1.5X focal length or 1/2 focal length.

That is, if you're shooting with a 100mm, you probably need to be at either 1/150 sec (1/1.5X) or 1/200 (1/2X). If you're shooting with a 50mm, you probably need either 1/75 (1/1.5X) or 1/100 (1/2X). Try it out, figure what works best for you. Always shooting at 1/200 will handicap you in low light situations way too much. Also, really focus on the tips we've given you about minimizing hand shake: leaning against a wall, shooting just after you exhale, gently squeezing the shutter button instead of 'pushing it', leaving the shutter button pressed down until after your camera is finished shooting the exposure, bean bags to lay your camera on for on the floor shots, using a shutter release trigger when possible (the D7000 has a really handy dandy little wireless one that is cheap. I know photogs who almost never use their actual shutter button for pictures, and always use the wireless remote), etc.

And as others have mentioned, the D7000 is good with high ISO's, but only when it is properly exposed, or slightly overexposed. You get a lot less noise in your images when you take an overexposed photo and darken it in post than the reverse. You gave your camera the double whammy of a high ISO and underexposing.

 

[Solarflare]

Oh just great. I completely missed the point of the intro posting.

 

[3bayjunkie]

Try over exposing by 2/3 stop or even 1 full stop. I had the same camera for about a year. So i know it pretty well.

Sent using PhotoForum

 

[unpopular]

^^ or for that matter 1/3 stop or perhaps 1 2/3 stop. Maybe 7/8 stop will do?

There's really no need to guestimate. the amount of exposure needed is the amount of light reflected relative to the source. Learn to use a spot meter, and control the exposure.

 

[Bitter Jeweler]

Another thing to try, is set your shutter to continous, and always take three pictures, while the button is held down. maybe the first shot will experience shake, but the next two might not. (it's a ProTip I heard, or read somewhere *shrug*)

 

[DScience]

You should sell your SLR and find a new hobby lol

If you struggle that much, maybe it's not meant to be?

 

[pgriz]

You should sell your SLR and find a new hobby lol

If you struggle that much, maybe it's not meant to be?

Sorry, but that's not helpful. Some of us "get it" quickly. Some don't. And if I had to guess, there is usually a conceptual error which blocks progress. It's not easy to discover it, but once it is found, and the person gets to advance pretty quickly. The trick is to have someone more advanced observe and see what the problem is. As it is, we can give all the advice we want, but if that advice is being understood in a flawed manner due to that conceptual error, then it won't make much sense to the OP or be much good. If Amoment is learning photography on her own and without much direct interaction with other photographers, it may take a while for her to figure out what the issues are.

 

[KmH]

I seem to recall that she mentioned she had a mentor that has a photography business..

 

[fjrabon]

I seem to recall that she mentioned she had a mentor that has a photography business..

I recall the mentor being in Texas (and actually being really mediocre/bad)

 

[pgriz]

Well, then, that's a double whammy - beginner's ignorance (nothing wrong with that - we all were there at one point), and a mentor giving misinformation or at least misdirection... How do you figure out what is good or bad under those conditions?