Issues with reflections shooting Gold like surface.

[Benjamin2]

Hey, I wonder if someone can help me out.. ?

I'm currently shooting a series of paper weights that are made out of a gold like surface .. ie very shiny, yellow in colour and I'm getting reflections of my soft boxes and myself when taking a shot. I'l post an image of my setup and results a little later but does anyone have any initial tips regarding this?

I'd really Appreciate it...

 

[cgipson1]

Large scrim!

Read this: Amazon.com: Light Science and Magic, Fourth Edition: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting (9780240812250): Fil Hunter, Paul Fuqua, Steven Biver: Books

 

[Benjamin2]

You couldn't draw me another of your magical diagrams could you... the problem I'm having is using a scrim the lights are so close to my table that I can't actually get a shot off...

 

[cgipson1]

You couldn't draw me another of your magical diagrams could you... the problem I'm having is using a scrim the lights are so close to my table that I can't actually get a shot off...

I am having trouble envisioning what the issue is... so difficult to respond. You may need to post an image.

Have you tried a lightbox, with a very small hole in the front, just enough for the lens to poke through? That way, the only thing reflecting would be a small circle (the lens) that you could clone out.

 

[tirediron]

Post a photo of your set-up and one of the images with the reflections.

 

[Helen B]

You can use a light tent, or white and/or silver cards arranged around the softbox, then blur/clone out the joins and the reflection of you. Maybe use black cards to define edges and shapes if necessary - you usually need something in the reflections, or uneven lighting, to give shape. All these were done without a light tent, but with a softbox and white cards or paper, and sometimes black flags.

 

[cgipson1]

You can use a light tent, or white and/or silver cards arranged around the softbox, then blur/clone out the joins and the reflection of you. Maybe use black cards to define edges and shapes if necessary - you usually need something in the reflections, or uneven lighting, to give shape. All these were done without a light tent, but with a softbox and white cards or paper, and sometimes black flags.

Helen... could you post the originals (pre-post) of these also, to let the OP see what was done?

 

[Helen B]

Here they are:

 

[cgipson1]

Here they are:

Thanks! Nice work! Nice edits!

 

[Helen B]

Thanks.

A little explanation:
The chrome sprayer was done with two large silver cards either side of the overhead softbox - you can see their reflections.
The gimballed ornamental miner's lamp had the softbox overhead and white paper around the camera the and to the left. There was a black flag at the left, positioned to form the black edge-defining line.

Having totally reflective polished metal that shows even reflections all round can look strange, and flat. Some appropriate reflections (not the studio surroundings!) can help, as can graduated brightness of the reflectors.

 

[Benjamin2]

Heres my setup and results so far... I've created some very patronising arrows please excuse these

I don't have a light tent and these need to be on grey as the images on the shop already are on a grey backround.

I've tried adding two layers of tracing paper to my soft boxes in order to irradiate the problem as a diy scrim but this didn't solve the issue.

Thoughts on this would be amazing, thanks for all your comments so far!

 

[KmH]

What you are doing there, your set up, won't work. You need to put the items in a light box/tent. and light the box from the outside.

An effective way to eliminate reflections is to light the surface that causes the reflection.

You really should get the book you were referred to in post #2, since it explains all of this in much greater detail (and with illustration). All of your photos will benefit.

 

[Big Mike]

I'll add a third recommendation for the book 'Light: Science & Magic'. It can teach you the principles involved and thus how to go about solving them. There is a fair amount of information, so a single forum thread probably won't suffice to teach you all you need to know.

But in a nutshell....
The objects you are shooting, exhibit a reflectance property called direct reflection. That means that any light in side their 'family of angles' will show up as a reflection (glare) on the object. If they were square, the family of angles would be limited and easy to envision, so all you would have to do, is move the lights outside of that area. However, as the objects are rounded, their family of angles is essentially everywhere except directly behind them...so anywhere that you put your lights, you will see the reflections (you can't avoid them). So the key to a good photo, is to make your reflections look good. One way of doing that, is to attempt to 'fill the family of angles', that is where the light tent comes in. You are essentially surrounding the object with a light source, so that you fill all of the angles with white fabric. Sometimes that is the best options, sometimes it's not.
As pointed out in Helen's examples, sometimes it's better to shape the reflection by altering the size/shape of the light source.

And while it is almost always better to get it right, before taking the photo. Sometimes you need to know when 2 minutes in Photoshop is easier than 2 hours of careful set up.

 

[Benjamin2]

Hi Guys,

I appreciate the comments, I think like mentioned above a compromise was in order. I do own the book and I've been reading this as I go along, If I came across as wanting the answers without putting any work in this wasn't the case I've spent several hours experimenting prior to posting here.

I'm sort of restricted by the fact I don't have a light tent or multiple lights, but I've managed to work things out. one question though.. how would I use a background like I have with a light tent.. is that's even possible?

Thanks again,

Ben.

 

[cgipson1]

What... a white background? No problem! The reflective surface you have the "egg" sitting on... if it will fit in the light tent.. no problem (or get some white plexiglass or tile.. no big deal).


The 30" is a good general size... although the 12" is good for small objects (sometimes too easy to overpower it with light though)

Amazon.com: Square Perfect 30 Inch Light Tent Photo Cube Softbox with 4 Colored Backgrounds For Product Photography: Electronics