Jo Cose's 3 Golden Rules of Photography

[jocose]

So, this thread really should be elsewhere--but as our resident clarinet player has pointed out in the past, if you want the widest readership, you post in the off-topics.

Anyway, JonMikal was testing me earlier today, so it occurred to me that if I learn nothing else from all of you (which of course is impossible), I have learned what I consider to be the 3 most important rules to live by when it comes to photography. These are probably not your typical ones, because such things as the rule of 3rds will NOT be found here.

So, without further ado, here are what I consider to be the 3 most important rules to photography, and I learned them here on TPF:

1) Always shoot in Manual mode, or shutter or appreture priority--NEVER in auto (unless you're doing snapshots or just goofing)
2) Never use the onboard flash (unless you absolutely have to)
3) It is always better to underexpose than overexpose

​

These are Jo Cose's golden rules. If you always follow these rules, you can fix anything in Photoshop. The rule of 3rds? Just cut, move and paste where you want the object. Underexposed? Use curves or lighten or contrast to adjust.

There you go. Thank you for your time and attention, and thank you for your help in learning these rules! :hail:

 

[PlasticSpanner]

So, this thread really should be elsewhere--but as our resident clarinet player has pointed out in the past, if you want the widest readership, you post in the off-topics.

Anyway, JonMikal was testing me earlier today, so it occurred to me that if I learn nothing else from all of you (which of course is impossible), I have learned what I consider to be the 3 most important rules to live by when it comes to photography. These are probably not your typical ones, because such things as the rule of 3rds will NOT be found here.

So, without further ado, here are what I consider to be the 3 most important rules to photography, and I learned them here on TPF:

1) Always shoot in Manual mode, or shutter or appreture priority--NEVER in auto (unless you're doing snapshots or just goofing)
2) Never use the onboard flash (unless you absolutely have to)
3) It is always better to underexpose than overexpose


​

These are Jo Cose's golden rules. If you always follow these rules, you can fix anything in Photoshop. The rule of 3rds? Just cut, move and paste where you want the object. Underexposed? Use curves or lighten or contrast to adjust.

There you go. Thank you for your time and attention, and thank you for your help in learning these rules! :hail:

Do you realize how many people that is going to upset!

 

[Harpua]

OK please educate a newbie here. Why shouldn't I use the onboard flash? i have seen some real poor shots that I have taken with the flash, but occasionally they come out pretty good as well.

 

[mysteryscribe]

under expose digital
over expose film sorry thats my rule

 

[PlasticSpanner]

OK please educate a newbie here. Why shouldn't I use the onboard flash? i have seen some real poor shots that I have taken with the flash, but occasionally they come out pretty good as well.

Unless you learn the technical aspects of flash ligh it can be rather hit & miss.

I don't think there are any real "don'ts" in photography but generally the on board flash on the DSLR are not normally up to the job of a proper setup and correctly adjusted flash unit.

 

[PlasticSpanner]

under expose digital
over expose film sorry thats my rule

It's still better to under expose since the light information is still recorded, just darker. This is immediately apparent in astrophotography especially when photographing planets!

 

[jocose]

Do you realize how many people that is going to upset!

Possibly, but these are MY rules, so if they get upset, it's their own problem!

 

[mentos_007]

one more:
remeber to take off the cap from the lens...

oh and one more: remember to turn on a camera if it's digital
or... if it's film.. remember to load it

 

[jocose]

OK please educate a newbie here. Why shouldn't I use the onboard flash? i have seen some real poor shots that I have taken with the flash, but occasionally they come out pretty good as well.

Harpua, I'm a newbie as well, but from what I've learned so far, the onboard flash isn't very good and it's placed in such a way that it will wash out everything. In all honesty, there are times...if you know what you're doing (and I don't), you can use the flash as filler, but I'm not there yet, so my rule sticks

Actually, in last month's Popular Photography, they had a really cool idea: Take a 35mm film canister that is that translucent one (not the black one), cut a hole in the side and slide it over the flash--you have a MacGuyver-style (or Ghetto-style depending on your point-of-view) difuser...I so want to try this, but I don't have any of those kinds of canisters...only the black ones.

 

[JonMikal]

one more:
remeber to take off the cap from the lens...

oh and one more: remember to turn on a camera if it's digital
or... if it's film.. remember to load it

:lmao:

 

[jocose]

under expose digital
over expose film sorry thats my rule

Could be...I know f-all about film. And yea, I should have said that my rules apply to digital photography.

Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for the film rule :thumbup:

 

[PlasticSpanner]

My own rules (just for myself!)

1, Under expose by at least 1/2 stop
2, Keep notes & write them up neatly with the negs/contact sheet (and don't lose the note book!:x )
3, Get as close as possible to minimise using zoom & long, shakey lenses.

 

[jocose]

one more:
remeber to take off the cap from the lens...

oh and one more: remember to turn on a camera if it's digital
or... if it's film.. remember to load it

So true, so true...not to embarrass anyone, but ClarinetJWD did both several times at the last meetup...tried to take pics only to discover that he left the cap on or forgot to turn it on (I've done the latter several times myself with my DSLR, but with the PowerShot, it's easier to know if it's turned on or off.

 

[JonMikal]

the context in which i refer to manual is; a camera with no meter. if you become acquainted with the "sunny 16" rule, everything else falls into place. check the rule with your metering system. once confirmed, you will stop relying on your camera. you will know when to over/under-expose based on subject matter. you will become the "creator/picture taker"...not the camera. you'll be amazed at how well you will be able to read situations and plan accordingly.

it will change your way of seeing.

http://www.camerareview.com/templates/sunny16.cfm

 

[MommyOf4Boys]

I am still learning, but I have used my on-camera flash and it sucks! LOL I have though, through learning through another post here, learned how to make a nifty diffuser out of paper to fit over my on-camera flash that works amazingly well!
I have been practicing and practicing on improving my skills by taking many test shots. I am learning how to correct my DOF and using the correct lens for the shot I am taking. I think I have at least 3 billion photography tutorials saved in my favorites! LOL
The biggest thing I have learned as Jo pointed out is shooting in Manual, AP, or SP..they give the most control over what you are trying to achieve. Most of my photos have been coming out so unsharp that it isnt funny. I have been practicing fixing this by using the correct DOF and I actually changed a setting on my camera. I have always been shooting in a "Custom" mode through my Optimized Settings and just switched it over to "Sharp" and "Portrait" this is what I came up with..(please excuse the subject and lighting..it was just a test shot - i did not post process on these, because I wanted to give the true effects) These were all shot in AP. I am sure that most DSLR cameras have these options?

This was taken with the "Custom" setting (50mm ISO 200 1/60 f/5)

And this one on the "Sharp" setting (50mm ISO 200 1/60 f/5)

Portrait setting (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE AUTO SHOOTING SETTING OF PORTRAIT)...This works really well with a subject like this, because it keeps the main subject in focus better than other settings and gives the background the bokeh effect even better. (50mm ISO 200 1/60 f/5)