Lighting critique

[CherylL]

Thanks to @Derrel for the parabolic umbrella recommendation. My umbrella holder doesn't pivot the umbrella (only pivots the flash). Any tips appreciated. Thanks

1. Umbrella camera right with white board left & white reflector in her lap. The neck was a little hot and adjusted in ACR.

Lighting practice by Cheryl, on Flickr

2. Umbrella right only

Lighting practice 2 by Cheryl, on Flickr

 

[Braineack]

get the light a bit higher so the catchlights are in the 2-3 o clock position.

 

[Derrel]

get the light a bit higher so the catchlights are in the 2-3 o clock position.

I would agree with that. With the main light elevated a bit higher, the nose shadow will then angle downward a little bit, below the bottom of the nose, but the nose shadow will not touch the upper lip.

I would most definitely buy an umbrella swivel mount that allows you to angle the umbrella in relation to the subject!

Tips? Well...there are a lot of them. One tip would be to try to see how the umbrella can be aimed so the sweep of the light is aimed mostly _in front of the sitter_ and does not hit them full-face, directly dead-center. Also, the sweep of the light can be directed so that a good part of the beam strikes behind the face of the sitter, so that close-in backgrounds can be lighted by the umbrella, at the same time that the subject is being lighted by the umbrella.

An umbrella throws a fair amount of light out, in a wider arc than most people realize; when you are shooting with a speedlight, it it impossible to actually "see" the lighting effect, until an image has been captured and brought up on a screen, so it can be somewhat slow to learn how, exactly, an umbrella lights a particular type of photo, but I do want you to consider that the way the umbrella is "aimed" at a seated person can affect the background!

There is plenty to learn with an umbrella.

 

[CherylL]

get the light a bit higher so the catchlights are in the 2-3 o clock position.

I would agree with that. With the main light elevated a bit higher, the nose shadow will then angle downward a little bit, below the bottom of the nose, but the nose shadow will not touch the upper lip.

I would most definitely buy an umbrella swivel mount that allows you to angle the umbrella in relation to the subject!

Tips? Well...there are a lot of them. One tip would be to try to see how the umbrella can be aimed so the sweep of the light is aimed mostly _in front of the sitter_ and does not hit them full-face, directly dead-center. Also, the sweep of the light can be directed so that a good part of the beam strikes behind the face of the sitter, so that close-in backgrounds can be lighted by the umbrella, at the same time that the subject is being lighted by the umbrella.

An umbrella throws a fair amount of light out, in a wider arc than most people realize; when you are shooting with a speedlight, it it impossible to actually "see" the lighting effect, until an image has been captured and brought up on a screen, so it can be somewhat slow to learn how, exactly, an umbrella lights a particular type of photo, but I do want you to consider that the way the umbrella is "aimed" at a seated person can affect the background!

There is plenty to learn with an umbrella.

Thanks for the tips! I went searching for a swivel adapter and the one I have now is listed that way. After looking at the photos online, I realized that mine came in the package with the cold shoe on the wrong end. Being a noob I had no clue that it was backwards. I can adjust the angle. Yes, not having a modeling light is a big disadvantage. I will set up and practice angles and see where the light sweeps the scene.

 

[Christie Photo]

What is the distance from you subject to the light? Don't be afraid to move it in close... just out of view.

What is your focal length? I tend to want to move the camera up just a wee bit.

Just some thoughts of other things that would impact on light placement.

Good goin'! I can't imagine attempting this without a modeling light. Ya done good.

-Pete

 

[Designer]

I agree that the umbrella should be raised up. The left side is fairly dark, so I think the reflector should be more over to the opposite side, and higher as well. (You'll need to prop it up rather than ask the sitter to hold it.)

I predict that you will someday invest in a studio light that has a modeling light. Your subject's pupils are dilated now due to no modeling light. You can get a cheapie for about $50. Then snoot your speedlight for a hair light. Uptown!

 

[CherylL]

What is the distance from you subject to the light? Don't be afraid to move it in close... just out of view.

What is your focal length? I tend to want to move the camera up just a wee bit.

Just some thoughts of other things that would impact on light placement.

Good goin'! I can't imagine attempting this without a modeling light. Ya done good.

-Pete

I was using the 85mm 1.8 set at f8.0. The light was close as I could get it without seeing the umbrella handle. She was sitting on a stool and I was standing, but I think I did bend down for the shot. Now that I can swivel the umbrella correctly maybe I can move it in closer. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[ronlane]

All the comments above are solid advice. I will add to the advice of raising the light. Something that I have seen and heard from others teaching lighting is to put the persons head in the bottom third of the modifier. So basically raise the light and umbrella up to where the bottom edge is about chin level. This will also give you a little more room to shoot under it with the 85mm. (Which is a killer portrait lens by the way.)

 

[CherylL]

I agree that the umbrella should be raised up. The left side is fairly dark, so I think the reflector should be more over to the opposite side, and higher as well. (You'll need to prop it up rather than ask the sitter to hold it.)

I predict that you will someday invest in a studio light that has a modeling light. Your subject's pupils are dilated now due to no modeling light. You can get a cheapie for about $50. Then snoot your speedlight for a hair light. Uptown!

The second photo I was going for a dark side. Too dark? Ahhhh, the pupil dilation. I thought something was off with the eyes, thanks for pointing that out I was focusing on posing and light fall off. There is more to this than I thought! A modelling light for $50? I'll research. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[CherylL]

All the comments above are solid advice. I will add to the advice of raising the light. Something that I have seen and heard from others teaching lighting is to put the persons head in the bottom third of the modifier. So basically raise the light and umbrella up to where the bottom edge is about chin level. This will also give you a little more room to shoot under it with the 85mm. (Which is a killer portrait lens by the way.)

Thanks for the detail of the position! I was guessing 45 degrees over and up, but your suggestion is more precise. I love the lens. Bought it a year ago and stays on my camera. My other 2 primes I rarely use. The 50 1.4 only for tight spaces. The 28 1.8 I can't remember the last time I used it. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[Designer]

A modeling light for $50?

Ooops! I am wrong. These were only $50 when I bought mine several years ago. Now I see that they are $70.

Flashpoint Budget Monolight

Still fairly cheap though.

 

[CherylL]

A modeling light for $50?

Ooops! I am wrong. These were only $50 when I bought mine several years ago. Now I see that they are $70.

Flashpoint Budget Monolight

Still fairly cheap though.

Thanks for the link. A few things since I don't know anything about the lights. This light would be too hot for my parabolic umbrella? The specs on this light state "Sync via cable or optical slave", would I use a cable for this light and use my trigger as normal for my flash?

 

[Designer]

A modeling light for $50?

Ooops! I am wrong. These were only $50 when I bought mine several years ago. Now I see that they are $70.

Flashpoint Budget Monolight

Still fairly cheap though.

Thanks for the link. A few things since I don't know anything about the lights. This light would be too hot for my parabolic umbrella? The specs on this light state "Sync via cable or optical slave", would I use a cable for this light and use my trigger as normal for my flash?

I don't know who is telling you that these lights are "hot", because they're not overly hot, IMO. I use mine with an umbrella, and frankly, I can still put my hand on the housing. Check the wattage rating of the modeling light, but your umbrella is going to be at least one foot away from it, so it will not be harmed.

As for firing, I usually fire mine with a RF trigger, but that's mainly because I have three receivers, and can trigger nearly everything with an RF trigger, but of course, they do have the optical trigger as well, so if you're going to trigger some other flash with your RF trigger, then just set the monolight to trigger in slave mode.

I have one TTL cable, but almost never use it because it is only about three feet long, and even if I had a 30-foot cable, I don't like cables trailing across the floor if I can help it.

 

[ronlane]

I'll add another okay with those Flashpoint lights. I have 2 of the 300 w/s studio strobes like this and the modeling light doesn't really get hot. I only use it a little bit so I've never had a problem but I have used it with both a softbox and with umbrella's with no issues whatsoever.

 

[Braineack]

A modeling light for $50?

Ooops! I am wrong. These were only $50 when I bought mine several years ago. Now I see that they are $70.

Flashpoint Budget Monolight

Still fairly cheap though.

I would splurge for these: Flashpoint Studio R2

double the power and R2 wireless Radio control for only $100.


on heat:

Take Note
When using with modifiers that have plastic components, you should remove the incandescent modeling bulb, and replace it with a LED or fluorescent modeling lamp bulb, to avoid excessive heat on the plastic components of the modifier.