My kids- I need honest feedback.

[Rachel141]

Make him bigger in the frame - and not in the center.
Remove or de-accentuate bright stuff that pulls the eye. All that truck and the sky in the corner isn't needed.
make his face a bit warmer.

burn the corners to keep the viewers' eyes in the important spots.
his face looks a bit blurry but I enlarged the original.

I love it! Thank you so much! I think his face is a bit blurry in the original. I think I caught focus of the truck instead of him?

 

[The_Traveler]

3 simple rules should guide picture taking and finishing
1: put important stuff in important places
2: minimize the impact of stuff that isn't necessary
3: maximize the impact of important stuff

 

[Rachel141]

Make him bigger in the frame - and not in the center.
Remove or de-accentuate bright stuff that pulls the eye. All that truck and the sky in the corner isn't needed.
make his face a bit warmer.

burn the corners to keep the viewers' eyes in the important spots.
his face looks a bit blurry but I enlarged the original.

Also, could this picture been improved by using a different setting on my camera?

 

[The_Traveler]

There's no embedded info but the only thing that looks wrong is the slightly blurred face - and that is probably motion blur.
So a slightly faster shutter speed might have been nice.
In situations like this I take several exposures so I can be more certain I'll get one with no-blink or no blur.

Look at the original on your computer and get the EXIF if you know how.

There are rules of thumb for shutter speed.

Never shoot slower than the inverse of the twice focal length.
Using a crop frame camera like the entry level dslrs never shoot slower than the inverse of three times focal length.
That sounds complex but it means if you are shooting a 50 mm lens with a crop frame camera (that has a longer effective focal length) then never shoot slower than 1/150th UNTIL you learn to hold steady.
That will eliminate blur from camera shake.
That's also a good to decent speed for shooting (I mean photographing) children who aren't running or flailing around.

Faster subjects faster shutter speed required to stop them. (unless you pan)

 

[Rachel141]

There's no embedded info but the only thing that looks wrong is the slightly blurred face - and that is probably motion blur.
So a slightly faster shutter speed might have been nice.
In situations like this I take several exposures so I can be more certain I'll get one with no-blink or no blur.

Look at the original on your computer and get the EXIF if you know how.

There are rules of thumb for shutter speed.

Never shoot slower than the inverse of the twice focal length.
Using a crop frame camera like the entry level dslrs never shoot slower than the inverse of three times focal length.
That sounds complex but it means if you are shooting a 50 mm lens with a crop frame camera (that has a longer effective focal length) then never shoot slower than 1/150th UNTIL you learn to hold steady.
That will eliminate blur from camera shake.
That's also a good to decent speed for shooting (I mean photographing) children who aren't running or flailing around.

Faster subjects faster shutter speed required to stop them. (unless you pan)

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! This answers many questions I had. Is there some sort of site on here that explains what is best to use under different scenarios with just an entry level camera? I would really like to improve without constantly bugging everyone with my elementary questions?

 

[The_Traveler]

PM KMH for his list of resources.
(I think its posted in a sticky here somewhere)
It really isn't rocket science and you will get up to speed quickly.

Once you learn how to use your camera you will be fine.
I typically shoot aperture preferred to control the DOF, let the camera manage the shutter speed and use exposure compensation for particular lighting situations.
All that may sound like gobbledy-gook now but a hour of reading and it will all become clear.

Lew

 

[Rachel141]

PM KMH for his list of resources.
(I think its posted in a sticky here somewhere)
It really isn't rocket science and you will get up to speed quickly.

Once you learn how to use your camera you will be fine.
I typically shoot aperture preferred to control the DOF, let the camera manage the shutter speed and use exposure compensation for particular lighting situations.
All that may sound like gobbledy-gook now but a hour of reading and it will all become clear.

Lew

You are the best, Lew! If I could only keep you in my pocket...

 

[manaheim]

Don't sweat your over-editing so much. EVERYONE does it at first! As you learn and grow you will get some great editing techniques that you enjoy on the computer as well as look great.

What are you working with for your camera and for your editing program?

I have so much respect for you guys that understand all of this stuff! There really is a lot to be learned and I appreciate people like you who take the time to explain this stuff to beginners like myself! I have 2 entry level cameras I alternate between, a Canon Rebel and a Nikon D90. I find myself reaching for the Nikon most days. I am also very much guilty of just using the automatic settings because I have never been properly trained. The only other one I feel comfortable with is the Program setting. My laptop is so outdated it belongs in a museum. As you mentioned, I'm probably seeing a different image than the rest of the world. I purchased the IPad2 last year and it is generally what I use for editing. Since money is tight I just use programs like Snapseed and Photogene. Sometimes I edit with one, save it and edit more on another. That's not a good thing is it?

Don't feel guilty about using the more automated settings... at least program. I wouldn't advise full auto as it alters ISO (and chooses your focus point I think). Program lets you focus on some other things and learn a little more slowly. There's a lot to learn in photography. Taking it easy can help keep you from getting frustrated. Use the other modes as you learn how and why they are valuable... and trust me, you will in time. Eventually you may choose to not use program again, but most of even the most seasoned pros still use aperture and shutter priority for most of their work, which is just 1/2 of the program setting and the other left to the photographer.

 

[MLeeK]

Don't sweat your over-editing so much. EVERYONE does it at first! As you learn and grow you will get some great editing techniques that you enjoy on the computer as well as look great.

What are you working with for your camera and for your editing program?

I have so much respect for you guys that understand all of this stuff! There really is a lot to be learned and I appreciate people like you who take the time to explain this stuff to beginners like myself! I have 2 entry level cameras I alternate between, a Canon Rebel and a Nikon D90. I find myself reaching for the Nikon most days. I am also very much guilty of just using the automatic settings because I have never been properly trained. The only other one I feel comfortable with is the Program setting. My laptop is so outdated it belongs in a museum. As you mentioned, I'm probably seeing a different image than the rest of the world. I purchased the IPad2 last year and it is generally what I use for editing. Since money is tight I just use programs like Snapseed and Photogene. Sometimes I edit with one, save it and edit more on another. That's not a good thing is it?

The nikon is probably the better camera of the two by far!
For cheap software that is very good I know Sparky uses Gimp which is free. It's very much like Photoshop in how it works. It's not intuitive and there is no easy button, but if you really learn it, it's an incredibly powerful program.
For inexpensive editing program take a look at Adobe Photoshop Elements 10 or Corel's PaintShop Pro X4. I'd try to stick to the photoshop only because if and when you upgrade later to a full version of photoshop you are still working with the same interface, your actions, brushes, etc will all transfer. I believe you can pick up elements for under $75 now. You can download the trial and use it for 30 days as well.

It looks like a lot and very complicated when you are at the starting gate and looking at having to learn exposure, composition, post processing, editing, color management.......... It's not that bad and as you start to move forward it will begin to fall in place much easier than it looks.

For the photography end of it you can start with the tutorials here: Digital Photography Tips and Tutorials
As you are working your way through them and you get questions just ask. There's always someone around to help!

 

[SCraig]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! This answers many questions I had. Is there some sort of site on here that explains what is best to use under different scenarios with just an entry level camera? I would really like to improve without constantly bugging everyone with my elementary questions?

Today's "Entry Level" cameras have more features and capabilities than any professional camera made before the late 60's. They may not be built as ruggedly or have the professional optics or alignment, but we would have given anything for some of the "Entry Level" features that are taken for granted today. We didn't even have built-in light meters much less something that would set the proper exposure for you.

An "Entry Level" camera in the hands of an experienced photographer is capable of outstanding photographs so don't sell them short. Learn to use what you have and keep in mind that any camera is just a box. The real work is done by the mind about 6" behind it.

 

[AaronLLockhart]

Today's "Entry Level" cameras have more features and capabilities than any professional camera made before the late 60's. They may not be built as ruggedly or have the professional optics or alignment, but we would have given anything for some of the "Entry Level" features that are taken for granted today. We didn't even have built-in light meters much less something that would set the proper exposure for you.

An "Entry Level" camera in the hands of an experienced photographer is capable of outstanding photographs so don't sell them short. Learn to use what you have and keep in mind that any camera is just a box. The real work is done by the mind about 6" behind it.

Agreed.

 

[jaxx419]

Your white balance looks off in most of them.
Might be your processing... But it still makes the baby look an odd color.

 

[Rachel141]

Your white balance looks off in most of them.
Might be your processing... But it still makes the baby look an odd color.

I agree! It's funny, those were my favorite at first and now I'm thinking "what the He'll was I thinking!?!"

 

[Rachel141]

Don't feel guilty about using the more automated settings... at least program. I wouldn't advise full auto as it alters ISO (and chooses your focus point I think). Program lets you focus on some other things and learn a little more slowly. There's a lot to learn in photography. Taking it easy can help keep you from getting frustrated. Use the other modes as you learn how and why they are valuable... and trust me, you will in time. Eventually you may choose to not use program again, but most of even the most seasoned pros still use aperture and shutter priority for most of their work, which is just 1/2 of the program setting and the other left to the photographer.

You guys lit a fire under me! I stayed up until midnight playing with different appeture,ISO, and shutter speeds. I still am a little overwhelmed, but very determined. Thanks guys!

 

[Rachel141]

The nikon is probably the better camera of the two by far!
For cheap software that is very good I know Sparky uses Gimp which is free. It's very much like Photoshop in how it works. It's not intuitive and there is no easy button, but if you really learn it, it's an incredibly powerful program.
For inexpensive editing program take a look at Adobe Photoshop Elements 10 or Corel's PaintShop Pro X4. I'd try to stick to the photoshop only because if and when you upgrade later to a full version of photoshop you are still working with the same interface, your actions, brushes, etc will all transfer. I believe you can pick up elements for under $75 now. You can download the trial and use it for 30 days as well.

It looks like a lot and very complicated when you are at the starting gate and looking at having to learn exposure, composition, post processing, editing, color management.......... It's not that bad and as you start to move forward it will begin to fall in place much easier than it looks.

For the photography end of it you can start with the tutorials here: Digital Photography Tips and Tutorials
As you are working your way through them and you get questions just ask. There's always someone around to help!

I'll have to check those out. I've been doing all my editing on my IPad now because my laptop is 12 years old...no joke! I'll be looking for advice on the best of those next. Last night I realized that if pics on my Nikon were taken in both RAW and JPEGs, I can make some pretty nice adjustments of a picture I had already taken. It looked like skin tones were improved and there is also an auto correct option. What are your thoughts on using this camera feature? Worth it or waste of time???