My kids- I need honest feedback.

[Derrel]

Shooting in raw capture mode is almost always worth it. Raw capture mode creates files that can be adjusted to a much greater degree than in-camera JPEG capture only gives. So,yes, raw capture is definitely worth it!

 

[Rachel141]

Today's "Entry Level" cameras have more features and capabilities than any professional camera made before the late 60's. They may not be built as ruggedly or have the professional optics or alignment, but we would have given anything for some of the "Entry Level" features that are taken for granted today. We didn't even have built-in light meters much less something that would set the proper exposure for you.

An "Entry Level" camera in the hands of an experienced photographer is capable of outstanding photographs so don't sell them short. Learn to use what you have and keep in mind that any camera is just a box. The real work is done by the mind about 6" behind it.

Oh no, I completely agree with you! The camera is amazing! It's definitely user error! I was asking if there was somewhere to go to learn the basics of this entry level camera. Many sites I've seen reference more advanced cameras.

 

[Rachel141]

Shooting in raw capture mode is almost always worth it. Raw capture mode creates files that can be adjusted to a much greater degree than in-camera JPEG capture only gives. So,yes, raw capture is definitely worth it!

Yay! So maybe when I master a decent picture I can nix an editing program altogether and just do a miner adjustment on camera?

 

[Derrel]

No, that's not what I meant...

 

[Rachel141]

No, that's not what I meant...

Ok, but do you recommend editing a picture with the camera?

 

[Rachel141]

My attempt at better eye focus (still in the P setting.) I know they aren't very good pictures, but I'm hoping my clarity is at least better?

 

[MLeeK]

No, that's not what I meant...

Ok, but do you recommend editing a picture with the camera?

NO! Raw images can't be edited in camera. They are like a digital negative. they have to be developed with a raw processor. There would have been one with your cameras. For the Canon it would have been DPP and for the Nikon it would be View NX I believe.
Jpegs are edited by the camera to the picture styles that you see in the menus somewhere. Raw images are every bit of the information that hits your sensor. YOU get to decide what is discarded and what is kept. Raw images are actually not an image file that is viewable by just anything like jpegs are. You have to process them first.
Now that makes it sound complicated, but in reality it will make life easier on you and your editing steps-you can create a "look" by only using that raw software.
There is also free Raw processing software in RawTherapee and I believe there are others I know nothing about. Sparky could probably help you more along that lines as he uses free software.

Don't just switch to raw-make sure you have the software to process it. You may want to try out shooting in raw+JPEG at first.

I can't help you much in Nikon's View, but I can help with DPP a bit or Raw THerapee. There are tons of people here who shoot Nikon and can help with it.
When you do get a raw image-don't panic when it looks like crap!!! It's like anything else that has too much. It's flat and soft looking. When you process it and eliminate some of the information it will be MORE than your jpegs.

 

[MLeeK]

I looked at the two images. Are you using one or multiple focus points? The first one looks like the hand is in best focus. The second one looks great.
I think part of your blur problem is coming from shutter speed being too slow.
Shutter stops motion or shows motion. If your shutter is open for a long time you can move, the subject can move... That movement is recorded in the photograph as blur. If the shutter is only open for a very short time there isn't time enough for you to shake or the child to move.
A few rules to START with...
Your shutter speed should be equal to or greater than the reciprocal length of your lens. In many instances it should be twice as much. So if you have a 200mm lens your shutter speed should be more than 1/200 or if you are not the steadiest hand (most of us) more than 1/400. That is just to prevent blur from you shaking or moving the camera a slight bit.

Hand held photographing a still life your shutter speed should be equal to the above or more than about 1/80.

Hand held photographing a live subject your shutter should be above 1/125

Photographing a moving subject like a toddler above 1/250

For most sports I am at or above 1/400.

I think we touched on shutter priority mode earlier in the post. For now, try that out with those minimum shutter speeds. That will let the camera choose the aperture. If your camera has auto ISO you CAN let it choose, however I don't care for AUTO ISO. SO... if you aren't using auto ISO and your settings are blinking at you when you look at the viewfinder to take a shot it is telling you that it needs more light-you have to raise the ISO until it can get good exposure and stops blinking.


I'd guess that would be your first lesson in exposure! Shutter speed! Next comes learning about Aperture and Aperture Priority mode. A LOT of photographers prefer Aperture priority. I am not sure why they always default to that instead of Shutter Priority in shoots that shutter speed is your largest priority-but then I am not really very good in either priority mode and I shoot full manual (NOT what most do) all of the time. The ladies and gentlemen here can explain to you why that choice is.
When you are comfortable understanding Shutter Priority and to watch your settings start asking and someone will help you move on to controlling things with aperture and aperture priority.

 

[Rachel141]

I looked at the two images. Are you using one or multiple focus points? The first one looks like the hand is in best focus. The second one looks great.
I think part of your blur problem is coming from shutter speed being too slow.
Shutter stops motion or shows motion. If your shutter is open for a long time you can move, the subject can move... That movement is recorded in the photograph as blur. If the shutter is only open for a very short time there isn't time enough for you to shake or the child to move.
A few rules to START with...
Your shutter speed should be equal to or greater than the reciprocal length of your lens. In many instances it should be twice as much. So if you have a 200mm lens your shutter speed should be more than 1/200 or if you are not the steadiest hand (most of us) more than 1/400. That is just to prevent blur from you shaking or moving the camera a slight bit.

Hand held photographing a still life your shutter speed should be equal to the above or more than about 1/80.

Hand held photographing a live subject your shutter should be above 1/125

Photographing a moving subject like a toddler above 1/250

For most sports I am at or above 1/400.

I think we touched on shutter priority mode earlier in the post. For now, try that out with those minimum shutter speeds. That will let the camera choose the aperture. If your camera has auto ISO you CAN let it choose, however I don't care for AUTO ISO. SO... if you aren't using auto ISO and your settings are blinking at you when you look at the viewfinder to take a shot it is telling you that it needs more light-you have to raise the ISO until it can get good exposure and stops blinking.

I'd guess that would be your first lesson in exposure! Shutter speed! Next comes learning about Aperture and Aperture Priority mode. A LOT of photographers prefer Aperture priority. I am not sure why they always default to that instead of Shutter Priority in shoots that shutter speed is your largest priority-but then I am not really very good in either priority mode and I shoot full manual (NOT what most do) all of the time. The ladies and gentlemen here can explain to you why that choice is.
When you are comfortable understanding Shutter Priority and to watch your settings start asking and someone will help you move on to controlling things with aperture and aperture priority.

I'm looking into all this stuff. I know the Auto ISO was set which I'm now attempting to disable. I'm so sorry, I have no idea about the focus point. To adjust shutter speed, does that mean the picture must be taken in the " S Program?"

 

[Rachel141]

I'm looking into all this stuff. I know the Auto ISO was set which I'm now attempting to disable. I'm so sorry, I have no idea about the focus point. To adjust shutter speed, does that mean the picture must be taken in the " S Program?"

These are the best tips! Thank you so much!!,

 

[MTVision]

I'm looking into all this stuff. I know the Auto ISO was set which I'm now attempting to disable. I'm so sorry, I have no idea about the focus point. To adjust shutter speed, does that mean the picture must be taken in the " S Program?"

http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d90.htm

^^ there will be a couple links in the beginning that say user guide for d90. You can get one for the iPhone/iPad or a PDF file that you can view online. I normally don't recommend this guys site but his d90 guide might be helpful to you to familiarize yourself with all the buttons and functions. Especially if you don't have the camera manual.

 

[Derrel]

No, that's not what I meant...

Ok, but do you recommend editing a picture with the camera?

Some of the newer Nikons can do this. My experience with doing it is limited, but it CAN be better than no editing, for sure. I have a Nikon that does in-camera editing, and it does make some nice sepia-toned B&W images, and the in-camera fill lighting stuff can do "okay". I'm pretty sure that some of the newer Canon bodies are now also offering in-camera editing.

 

[Rachel141]

I'm looking into all this stuff. I know the Auto ISO was set which I'm now attempting to disable. I'm so sorry, I have no idea about the focus point. To adjust shutter speed, does that mean the picture must be taken in the " S Program?"

Sorry for driving you nuts with questions! Trying to dial this stuff in. Is this any closer? The first pic is just the Auto setting for comparison. Second was the shutter setting and I used settings close to those you gave me.

 

[Rachel141]

Sorry for driving you nuts with questions! Trying to dial this stuff in. Is this any closer? The first pic is just the Auto setting for comparison. Second was the shutter setting and I used settings close to those you gave me.

And I promise no more photos! This was my last attempt of the day

 

[Rachel141]

Some of the newer Nikons can do this. My experience with doing it is limited, but it CAN be better than no editing, for sure. I have a Nikon that does in-camera editing, and it does make some nice sepia-toned B&W images, and the in-camera fill lighting stuff can do "okay". I'm pretty sure that some of the newer Canon bodies are now also offering in-camera editing.

Yes, that's exactly what this one does. I adjusted the color a bit and it seemed to add a nicer glow to skin, but that's just my opinion.